New RODI

[giulianom]

Check out what I got today:

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4-stage RODI, with pressure gage.

Brand: Awesome Brand
From: Awesome LFS
Cost: A few hours of my time.

Rating: 100GPD


I got it with a float valve, and an auto-shutoff.

I'm going to feed it directly into my sump for an ATO, and split off with a valve for feeding to a 30-40 Gal rubbermaid for water changes on demand.

 

[acroholic]

Looks great. I would not, however, feed it directly to your sump as an ato because you will have a never ending water leak should your sump or tank develop a leak and the RO is there to keep adding water again and again and again. That type setup is a flood waiting to happen.

I have a top off reservoir that has a finite amount of top of water in it and a topoff pump tied to a sensor, so if it my system develops a leak only a certain amount of water can hit the floor.

 

[jmaneyapanda]

Acroholic;686340 wrote: Looks great. I would not, however, feed it directly to your sump as an ato because you will have a never ending water leak should your sump or tank develop a leak and the RO is there to keep adding water again and again and again. That type setup is a flood waiting to happen.

I have a top off reservoir that has a finite amount of top of water in it and a topoff pump tied to a sensor, so if it my system develops a leak only a certain amount of water can hit the floor.

What fills the topoff reservoir?

 

[acroholic]

jmaneyapanda;686358 wrote: What fills the topoff reservoir?

In my case, I control the working of my RODI by controlling the source water that goes into it via an electric valve. I fill/refill my topoff reservoir by running the electric valve feeding the RO unit for x amount of time. Unless the valve feeding it is turned on, the RO receives no source water. Through shutoff valves located at each source, For my two separate reef systems, I fill two difernt water change containers, two different topoff reservoirs, and another separate "just in case" reservoir based on time and RO production rates. One system WC container takes 165 minutes to fill, another takes 35, and so on.

If I did not do it this way, I would make my RO in a separate reservoir with a float valve, and an overflow bulkhead plumbed at the top and refill my ATO reservoir manually or with a pump inside the separate RO reservoir.

If the OP has his RODI production water going directly into his sump only controlled by a mechanical float valve, then a malfunction of the float valve (stuck open) or a leak in his system would allow the RODI to add water continuously to his system, never shutting off until he discovered the leak.

 

[jmaneyapanda]

On the left, in front of the RO is a pneumatic valve to shut off the water to the RO. No different than your electric valve (in terms of capability of failure and overflow).

I agree, running an RO straight to a sump controlled only by a mechanical float valve is risky. However, that is what the shutoff valve is for. Unless we manually dump water in the tank, there is ALWAYS a scenario where failure can occur.

 

[grouper therapy]

I installed a solenoid valve on a timer as well that only allows topoff for a limited time.Granted both could fail but the odds are cut in half at least.

 

[giulianom]

How about a standpipe in the sump that goes to a drain?

 

[kilo32]

GiulianoM;686407 wrote: How about a standpipe in the sump that goes to a drain?

I'm thinking the problem with that is even though you eliminate an overflow you would be lowering the salinity.

 

[acroholic]

jmaneyapanda;686393 wrote: On the left, in front of the RO is a pneumatic valve to shut off the water to the RO. No different than your electric valve (in terms of capability of failure and overflow).

Actually, quite a bit different. Being electric, my valve is closed unless energized. It is not mechanical and pressure dependent, as an ASOV is. Never had a failure in 18 years of doing it this way. Also, as I stated earlier, I have shutoff valves at each ATO and WC container where RO enters them. Water cannot physically enter the container unless I have it on, and unless I am filling it. It is closed. A failure of my electric valve would have no impact on water entering any of them.

jmaneyapanda;686393 wrote: I agree, running an RO straight to a sump controlled only by a mechanical float valve is risky. However, that is what the shutoff valve is for. Unless we manually dump water in the tank, there is ALWAYS a scenario where failure can occur.

The ASOV (pneumatic valve, as you said) is there to conserve water waste. The valve automatically shuts off RO and waste water production when the tank pressure reaches a percentage of the incoming line pressure to indicate the tank is full if you are filling a pressurized storage tank, or the float valve closes. Without it waste water would be continually sent down the drain. It has no function as a backup safety feature for a float valve as the bolded part of your above quoted post would indicate. It is a slave to the float valve. When the float valve is open, the shutoff valve is open, period. It would do nothing to stop the flow of water to the sump if the float valve were open in a leak type situation.

The OP is planning on running the RO output directly into the sump via a float valve. An ASOV isn't going to do anything if the sump level drops and the float valve opens up. As long as the float valve is open, which would be the case here with a system leak, the unit will continually produce and send RODI water to the sump as long as it is unnoticed, so there is a huge difference between plumbing a float valve controlled RODI directly to a sump and using a topoff container with a finite amount of water in it. An ASOV will not stop RODI production if the float valve controlling it is open or a piece of debris in the sump lodges in it, keeping it open.

Plumb an RODI directly to your sump:

1. You run the risk of drastically lowering your SG and killing everything in your tank if you have any leak in the system because your RODI will send water continuously. You also have the risk of a much larger volume of water ending up on your floor

Use a finite amount in a topoff reservoir:

1. You dump the amount of water in the topoff reservoir on the floor and no more. You don't have the potential to lower your SG anywhere near the above scenario. Assuming it is not a tank seam leak, your water pump and floor are at risk. Your animals stay OK with in tank circulation until you correct the problem.

As you stated, there is always the risk of failure, but there are ways to plumb and run an ATO setup that minimize the effects of a failure better than others, like using a finite amount of water in a topoff reservoir vs directly plumbing an unending supply of RODI water directly into a reef system.

 

[jmaneyapanda]

I disagree. The ASOV does depend on the float valve, but once the pressure is applied, it aids the float valve by not having constant pressure applied to it. Yes, if the float stays open it will continuously fill. But, if it doesn't, the ASOV will aid in not reestablishing pressure to the float until it reopens.

Dave, it sounds as if your ATO isn't auto at all. Let me ask, if you have a manual valve at the RO reservoir, what purpose whatsoever does the electric valve serve? If it being open or closed has no effect unless the manual valve is open? If delivery to the tank system is still being operated by sensors and pumps, malfunction can occur. And if the reservoir is small enough that it won't have a negative effect, yet must be filled manually, you'd be better of just topping off manually, to avoid ALL possibilities of problem. While redundancies and safeguards are certainly a positive thing, having excessive redundancies and safeguards that add so much labor to a procedure that was invented to save time and labor seems pointless. Just top off manually and have 0 possibility of problem.

 

[acroholic]

jmaneyapanda;686471 wrote: I disagree. The ASOV does depend on the float valve, but once the pressure is applied, it aids the float valve by not having constant pressure applied to it. Yes, if the float stays open it will continuously fill. But, if it doesn't, the ASOV will aid in not reestablishing pressure to the float until it reopens.

If an RODI is emptying directly into a sump via a float valve and there is a system leak, how would the float valve be anything but open or intermittently open and closed with a continually dropping sump water level? The ASOV really doesn't matter in that case, which is the only scenario I have been talking about.

jmaneyapanda;686471 wrote: Dave, it sounds as if your ATO isn't auto at all. Let me ask, if you have a manual valve at the RO reservoir, what purpose whatsoever does the electric valve serve? If it being open or closed has no effect unless the manual valve is open? If delivery to the tank system is still being operated by sensors and pumps, malfunction can occur. And if the reservoir is small enough that it won't have a negative effect, yet must be filled manually, you'd be better of just topping off manually, to avoid ALL possibilities of problem. While redundancies and safeguards are certainly a positive thing, having excessive redundancies and safeguards that add so much labor to a procedure that was invented to save time and labor seems pointless. Just top off manually and have 0 possibility of problem.

I may not have given a decent outline of my topoff system. I use a separate Tunze Osmolator to do my topoff on each reef system. The topoff reservoir in my 300/150 system is about 16 gallons. The topoff reservoir in my 100 gallon system is about 7 gallons.

My RODI unit's source water is controlled by an electric valve, and the amount of water I make at a sitting is determined by how long I run the electric valve. The RODI's output is shunted to one of the 5 different containers I use (2 WC, 2 topoff, 1 backup reservoir) using a 1/4" JG valve mounted on each container that the RODI water line goes through to empty into the container. When not being filled with RODI, the JG valve on each container is closed, and the electric valve feeding tap to the RODI is off (unenergized).

So for example, if I want to fill my 16 gallon 150/300 topoff container when it gets low, I open the JG valve to let the RODI water flow into it, and press a controller button that starts a program that energizes the electric valve to feed my RODI for 85 minutes. Based on my RODI production rate of 11 gallons an hour, this makes about 16 gallons. The electric valve closes when it turns of, and later on at my convenience I close the JG valve.

The JG valve on each container serves as a backup to the electric valve that feeds the RODI unit.

Emptying 16 gallons of RODI into a 425 gallon net system wouldn't do much to the SG, and neither would emptying 7 gallons into a 100 gallon net system, at least not near as much damage a continuous flow of RODI into a sump would as a result of a system leak.

My Osmolators top off my systems automatically, but in case of a leak or a malfunction they have a limited volume of RODI they can pump into the tank, not an unlimited amount like in the OP's proposed sump float valve setup.

The only way I would have anything remotely similar to a faulty float valve situation with a system leak is if my electric valve failed in the open position and I left the JG valve on the topoff container for that system open. And this is much less likely to happen than a mechanical float switch not closing or getting stuck open by a piece of something clogging it. I am far more likely to overfill a topoff or WC container than my tanks if the electric valve feeding my RODI unit fails in the open position, a very unlikely thing at that.

This system could fail as well, but the effects would be far less severe to the tank inhabitants than an endless supply of RODI going to the tank via a float valve in the sump plan. Again, not totaly eliminating water on the floor and some stress for the fish and corals, but minimizing it as compared to a float valve setup.

 

[jmaneyapanda]

Acroholic;686475 wrote: If an RODI is emptying directly into a sump via a float valve and there is a system leak, how would the float valve be anything but open or intermittently open and closed with a continually dropping sump water level? The ASOV really doesn't matter in that case, which is the only scenario I have been talking about.



I may not have given a decent outline of my topoff system. I use a separate Tunze Osmolator to do my topoff on each reef system. The topoff reservoir in my 300/150 system is about 16 gallons. The topoff reservoir in my 100 gallon system is about 7 gallons.

My RODI unit's source water is controlled by an electric valve, and the amount of water I make at a sitting is determined by how long I run the electric valve. The RODI's output is shunted to one of the 5 different containers I use (2 WC, 2 topoff, 1 backup reservoir) using a 1/4" JG valve mounted on each container that the RODI water line goes through to empty into the container. When not being filled with RODI, the JG valve on each container is closed, and the electric valve feeding tap to the RODI is off (unenergized).

So for example, if I want to fill my 16 gallon 150/300 topoff container when it gets low, I open the JG valve to let the RODI water flow into it, and press a controller button that starts a program that energizes the electric valve to feed my RODI for 85 minutes. Based on my RODI production rate of 11 gallons an hour, this makes about 16 gallons. The electric valve closes when it turns of, and later on at my convenience I close the JG valve.

The JG valve on each container serves as a backup to the electric valve that feeds the RODI unit.

Emptying 16 gallons of RODI into a 425 gallon net system wouldn't do much to the SG, and neither would emptying 7 gallons into a 100 gallon net system, at least not near as much damage a continuous flow of RODI into a sump would as a result of a system leak.

My Osmolators top off my systems automatically, but in case of a leak or a malfunction they have a limited volume of RODI they can pump into the tank, not an unlimited amount like in the OP's proposed sump float valve setup.

The only way I would have anything remotely similar to a faulty float valve situation with a system leak is if my electric valve failed in the open position and I left the JG valve on the topoff container for that system open. And this is much less likely to happen than a mechanical float switch not closing or getting stuck open by a piece of something clogging it. I am far more likely to overfill a topoff or WC container than my tanks if the electric valve feeding my RODI unit fails in the open position, a very unlikely thing at that.

This system could fail as well, but the effects would be far less severe to the tank inhabitants than an endless supply of RODI going to the tank via a float valve in the sump plan. Again, not totaly eliminating water on the floor and some stress for the fish and corals, but minimizing it as compared to a float valve setup.

I think were talking two different things. I am talking about topoff failure and error, not leaking sumps and tanks. However, IMHO, if a tank is leaking enough to cause the topoff to mess up salinity, I think there will be problems regardless. If there is minimal or no topoff in such times, the tank would simply drain, causing just as severe of livestock problems (if not worse). Needless to say, I think we'll have to agree to disagree. I have seen "my" setup in several dozen of setups with no issue whatsoever, just as you have had no issues with yours. In fact, when I had my tank up, I had a JBJ ATO and had more issues with that then I do with the numerous topoffs connected to a RO now.

In regards to your setup, in order for the RO water to feed into your reservoirs, you must manually open your JG valves, right? Whether the electric solenoid is on or off, right? And, your reservoirs is not substantial enough to cause any salinity issues, right? So, why not just manually top off, if you have to manually fill your relatively small reservoir? I would argue that the VAST majority have far smaller reservoirs than you too (required a more frequent filling). And we agree that any topoff device (Osmolator, JBJ, float valve, whatever) can fail for whatever reason, right? This is what I mean by complicating a device made to simplify. Im all for safeguard. But, if I have to manually open a valve to fill a reservior that fills the aquarium, I might as well just manually open a valve and fill the aquarium. Question- if the electric solenoid is so bulletproof and foolproof, why not just have that prior to the RO, and float valves in every tank feeding from that, and have the valve never open for more than X amount of time (long enough to fill tanks adequately)?

 

[giulianom]

How about this:

An aquacontroller PH probe, programmed to turn on a solenoid valve if the PH is too high?

I assume solenoid valves can be turned on manualy for water changes...

 

[buckeye field supply]

Acroholic is right on the money with his advice above folks. Plumbing an RODI to a float in your sump is something to avoid.

There's another issue with the OP's configuration that hasn't been brought up. Remember that in general, it is better to run an RO, and especially an RODI system, for an extended period of time rather than having it frequently cycle on and off. With the OP's configuration, every time the sump evaporates 1/8", the RODI will kick on for a very short period, and then kick off. And on, and off, and so on, all day everyday. So a high percentage of the water that actually reaches his sump will be high TDS water (a.k.a. TDS creep water).

We like a configuration with a DI water reservoir that holds about 1.1 times weekly evaporation. Ideally, this reservoir can be placed so that it gravity feeds to a float valve in the sump. If/when the float valve in the sump sticks open, only the water in the reservoir will end up in your tank. I've had this situation in my 300g reef, and my 15 gallon reservoir drained into the sump. No problems at all with the SG change - the corals didn't even seem to notice. The cause of my float sticking open was mineral build up on the little rubber stopper in the float valve - but this could also be caused by a snail, algae, or a deteriorated rubber stopper.

Russ

 

[acroholic]

Now here is an unsolicited opinion from an RODI Professional -^-! Send you that check tomorrow!

jmaneyapanda;686480 wrote: I think were talking two different things. I am talking about topoff failure and error, not leaking sumps and tanks.

I am talking about the continuous output of an RO going directly into a sump as an ATO device in case of a water leak where the sump always shows water loss first. In the case of a limited ATO Container volume, you might get a few gallons on the floor. With the RODI directly connected to the sump, you could get tens of hundreds of gallons on the floor because there is nothing to stop the RODI from continually adding water to the sump.

jmaneyapanda;686480 wrote: However, IMHO, if a tank is leaking enough to cause the topoff to mess up salinity, I think there will be problems regardless. If there is minimal or no topoff in such times, the tank would simply drain, causing just as severe of livestock problems (if not worse).

In a tank seam leak yes, but if it is a plumbing leak or a sump leak, the tank water level would only drain down to the level of the overflow. Livestock would be fine for a period with in-tank cirulation like a vortech or similar, and SG would suffer far worse if RODI were being added by an unlimited amount of RODI coming straight from the RODI unit vs a finite amount in an RODI topoff container.

jmaneyapanda;686480 wrote: Needless to say, I think we'll have to agree to disagree. I have seen "my" setup in several dozen of setups with no issue whatsoever, just as you have had no issues with yours. In fact, when I had my tank up, I had a JBJ ATO and had more issues with that then I do with the numerous topoffs connected to a RO now.

I was not debating the merits of my setup vs yours, just that limiting the amount of topoff water that can be added to sump in case of a leak has far less severe flooding and negative livestock consequences than directly plumbing the output of your RODI to the sump via a float valve.

jmaneyapanda;686480 wrote: In regards to your setup, in order for the RO water to feed into your reservoirs, you must manually open your JG valves, right? Whether the electric solenoid is on or off, right? And, your reservoirs is not substantial enough to cause any salinity issues, right? So, why not just manually top off, if you have to manually fill your relatively small reservoir?

I don't manually fill my ATO reservoir. I turn a 1/4" JG valve 90 degrees and push a button. My ATO Reservoir lasts about 5 days on my 150/300 system before I have to push the timer button again. Not too hard, really.

jmaneyapanda;686480 wrote: I would argue that the VAST majority have far smaller reservoirs than you too (required a more frequent filling). And we agree that any topoff device (Osmolator, JBJ, float valve, whatever) can fail for whatever reason, right? This is what I mean by complicating a device made to simplify. Im all for safeguard. But, if I have to manually open a valve to fill a reservior that fills the aquarium, I might as well just manually open a valve and fill the aquarium.

Big difference between filling a topoff reservoir with the push of a button that lasts for 5 days versus manually topping off for daily evaporation right into the tank, don't you think? The JG valve on each container just shunts the RODI product water to whichever tank I am filling. I don't have to keep them closed...I just do so as a safety precaution.

jmaneyapanda;686480 wrote: Question- if the electric solenoid is so bulletproof and foolproof, why not just have that prior to the RO,

The electric solenoid is prior to the RO.

jmaneyapanda;686480 wrote: .....and have the valve never open for more than X amount of time (long enough to fill tanks adequately)?

That is exactly how I do it! Float valves are unnecessary in this setup. But I could have done it that way as well.

 

[jmaneyapanda]

Buckeye Field Supply;686487 wrote: Acroholic is right on the money with his advice above folks. Plumbing an RODI to a float in your sump is something to avoid.

There's another issue with the OP's configuration that hasn't been brought up. Remember that in general, it is better to run an RO, and especially an RODI system, for an extended period of time rather than having it frequently cycle on and off. With the OP's configuration, every time the sump evaporates 1/8", the RODI will kick on for a very short period, and then kick off. And on, and off, and so on, all day everyday. So a high percentage of the water that actually reaches his sump will be high TDS water (a.k.a. TDS creep water).

We like a configuration with a DI water reservoir that holds about 1.1 times weekly evaporation. Ideally, this reservoir can be placed so that it gravity feeds to a float valve in the sump. If/when the float valve in the sump sticks open, only the water in the reservoir will end up in your tank. I've had this situation in my 300g reef, and my 15 gallon reservoir drained into the sump. No problems at all with the SG change - the corals didn't even seem to notice. The cause of my float sticking open was mineral build up on the little rubber stopper in the float valve - but this could also be caused by a snail, algae, or a deteriorated rubber stopper.

Russ

Fair enough. EXCEPT..........

How does an RODI feeding a sump at spurts differ from and RODI feeding a reservoir in spurts? The same amount of water is going in and out. I assume the RO will be used for making water change water also,. so it would likely have a good 1/2 to whole days use every week or two.

As I mentioned before, I assume the type of failure that would occur would be the same as you mentioned- a float valve failure. Ideally, there should be no calcium buildup, and it is RODI (unless pushing kalk). However, I do realize these fail, just as easily as any other part. I have seen more situation of reserviors running dry and having no top off (and increased salinity, burnt out pumps, etc) that the float valves malfunctioning. Constantly maintaining a reservoirs seems to make the automated topoff not so automated. ESPECIALLY if the adding little "sips" as you mentioned is truthfully as bad as you say it is.

 

[jmaneyapanda]

Acroholic;686509 wrote: Now here is an unsolicited opinion from an RODI Professional -^-! Send you that check tomorrow!



I am talking about the continuous output of an RO going directly into a sump as an ATO device in case of a water leak where the sump always shows water loss first. In the case of a limited ATO Container volume, you might get a few gallons on the floor. With the RODI directly connected to the sump, you could get tens of hundreds of gallons on the floor because there is nothing to stop the RODI from continually adding water to the sump.




In a tank seam leak yes, but if it is a plumbing leak or a sump leak, the tank water level would only drain down to the level of the overflow. Livestock would be fine for a period with in-tank cirulation like a vortech or similar, and SG would suffer far worse if RODI were being added by an unlimited amount of RODI coming straight from the RODI unit vs a finite amount in an RODI topoff container.




I was not debating the merits of my setup vs yours, just that limiting the amount of topoff water that can be added to sump in case of a leak has far less severe flooding and negative livestock consequences than directly plumbing the output of your RODI to the sump via a float valve.



I don't manually fill my ATO reservoir. I turn a 1/4" JG valve 90 degrees and push a button. My ATO Reservoir lasts about 5 days on my 150/300 system before I have to push the timer button again. Not too hard, really.



Big difference between filling a topoff reservoir with the push of a button that lasts for 5 days versus manually topping off for daily evaporation right into the tank, don't you think? The JG valve on each container just shunts the RODI product water to whichever tank I am filling. I don't have to keep them closed...I just do so as a safety precaution.



The electric solenoid is prior to the RO.



That is exactly how I do it! Float valves are unnecessary in this setup. But I could have done it that way as well.

I dont follow. How can an RO only add ten gallons to a reservoir, but tens of hundreds to a tank? If the valve fails it fails.

What type of leak are we talking about that would supply unlimited amount of RO? Sounds rather catastrophic to me. For the sake of argument, in lets say, your 300 gallon system, how much freshwater would it take to make the slainity as a "catasttrophic" level?

Actually, you are debating the merits of the setup. You first post said its "a flood waiting to happen". Thats a rather scathing criticism.

You <u>manually</u> turn a valve to fill the reservoir. That is manually filling your ATO reservoir. It cant happen unless you are there, doing it. Its not about "hard", its about automation. Complicating the matter.

Is there a difference between your system and manual topoff daily? YES!! IF your valve fails on the sump, you overfill the sump, lower salinity (marginally poer your account) and possibly flood the sump (slightly per your representation). As that worse than not having it happen? Yes, of course it is.

Again, if the solenoid that that perfect for protectiion, why not just hook it before the RO <u>AND</em></u> have your RO only on for 5 minutes every hour (or whatever)? Then, even if the valve faults, or sump leaks, or whatever catasrophe, the RO wont be "limitless", it will be very controlled and metered, exactly as you claim your reservoir to be. Without the added hassle of a reservoir, manual filling, or otherwise.

 

[acroholic]

jmaneyapanda;686514 wrote: Fair enough. EXCEPT..........

How does an RODI feeding a sump at spurts differ from and RODI feeding a reservoir in spurts? The same amount of water is going in and out. I assume the RO will be used for making water change water also,. so it would likely have a good 1/2 to whole days use every week or two.

Not speaking of leaks here.

A malfunctioning float valve feeding a sump will continuously add water to a sump and reef system, eventually overfilling and overflowing the sump and reducing the SG of the system and hurting the fish/corals.

A malfunctioning float valve on a reservoir will overflow the reservoir but not the sump and is not entering the reef system. Same water on the floor, but a flooded reservoir will not hurt the reef system since it is separate from it, whereas a sump is part of the system.

 

[jmaneyapanda]

Acroholic;686516 wrote: Not speaking of leaks here.

A malfunctioning float valve feeding a sump will continuously add water to a sump and reef system, eventually overfilling and overflowing the sump and reducing the SG of the system and hurting the fish/corals.

A malfunctioning float valve on a reservoir will overflow the reservoir but not the sump and is not entering the reef system. Same water on the floor, but a flooded reservoir will not hurt the reef system since it is separate from it, whereas a sump is part of the system.

No, Dave- I was referring to his comment of how a RODI that only operate in little spurts provides poor water. Not anything about leaks, etc.

 

[acroholic]

jmaneyapanda;686515 wrote: I dont follow. How can an RO only add ten gallons to a reservoir, but tens of hundreds to a tank? If the valve fails it fails.

Because in my situation I only allow the RO to make enough water to fill the reservoir. That is it until I activate the electric valve again. A mechanical float switch in a sump adds water directly to the reef tank and if it gets stuck open the water will flow into the sump until it is caught by the owner. If my ATO malfunctions on, it can only add the amount of water in the topoff container and no more.

jmaneyapanda;686515 wrote: What type of leak are we talking about that would supply unlimited amount of RO? Sounds rather catastrophic to me. For the sake of argument, in lets say, your 300 gallon system, how much freshwater would it take to make the slainity as a "catasttrophic" level?

You and I attend MACNA for two or three days. Your 300 gallon system has a float valve in the sump. Mine is set up with a 15 gallon topoff reservoir. Right after we leave your float valve sticks open and my Osmolator sticks on. My Osmolator dumps 15 gallons of RODI into my system and then stops because there is no more water in the reservoir.

Your RODI is stuck on and dumps RODI into your system the entire 2-3 days you are at MACNA, and you don't know anything about it until you get home. How many gallons of RODI have gone into your tank in those 2-3 days? Mine had 15 gallons put in. Yours had a lot more put into it.

jmaneyapanda;686515 wrote: Actually, you are debating the merits of the setup. You first post said its "a flood waiting to happen". Thats a rather scathing criticism.

OK Jeremy, you agree with Buckeye Field Supply but not with me, and Buckeye field supply said I was 'right on the money" in what I said, and posted "Plumbing an RODI to a float in your sump is something to avoid." So which is it? An RODI plumbed to a float in a sump is a flood waiting to happen, or is something to avoid. Pick whichever choice of words suits you the best. Did I not phrase it nicely enough for you? My apologies if that is the case.

jmaneyapanda;686515 wrote: You <u>manually</u> turn a valve to fill the reservoir. That is manually filling your ATO reservoir. It cant happen unless you are there, doing it. Its not about "hard", its about automation. Complicating the matter.

I turn a JG valve 1/4 turn every 5 days and press a button to fill my topoff reservoir.

jmaneyapanda;686515 wrote: Again, if the solenoid that that perfect for protectiion, why not just hook it before the RO <u>AND</em></u> have your RO only on for 5 minutes every hour (or whatever)? Then, even if the valve faults, or sump leaks, or whatever catasrophe, the RO wont be "limitless", it will be very controlled and metered, exactly as you claim your reservoir to be. Without the added hassle of a reservoir, manual filling, or otherwise.

I use the system the way I do because I send RO water to five different containers. I don't trust float valves. I've used this configuration for RODI production since 1993 when I set my first RO system up for Discus, and I have never had an electric valve failure. I'd say an 18 year 100% no valve failure success rate with this method is pretty good. Your above suggestion would also work.

It is not necessarily better than other setups, but it doesn't have the risk for flooding a system to the degree that a float valve in the sump does.

Edit:

jmaneyapanda;686521 wrote: No, Dave- I was referring to his comment of how a RODI that only operate in little spurts provides poor water. Not anything about leaks, etc.

OK..gotcha.