New tank time!

dball711

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I've decided to downsize my coral farm and take down my 2 60g frag tanks and replace them with a 60g breeder.

Tank will be an all-in-one (my design) as are all my tanks. I'm placing mirror panels on the back wall and tank bottom to redirect light into the tank and up from the bottom of the tank. I'm curious to see if this will help eliminate lighting dead spots so typical from LED lighting. I'll have 3 Pukani rock srtuctures that will make moving them around to keep the bottom glass clean easy. The mirrors really add depth to the tank.

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Top down view...

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I removed the tank center brace and custom fit a piece of 3/8" cast acrylic to keep the tank from bowing. This should eliminate the lighting dead spot from the brace.
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Fun Yes GIF by Yung Bae
 
Ha I've never seen anyone else with the dballs to actually cut off the center brace and replace it.

I'm curious to see how the mirror works out.
 
Ha I've never seen anyone else with the dballs to actually cut off the center brace and replace it.

I'm curious to see how the mirror works out.

I've always hated that brace and that it creates an interrupted light zone. I used piece of acrylic that's stronger than the original brace and threaded it for 5 nylon bolts on each mounting end. I know what I put in place is overkill and plants of support to stop any bowing. Fingers crossed but shouldn't be an issue.

As for the mirrors, I want to get the PAR meter to check PAR coming off the bottom and back wall.
 
I have always wanted to try mirrors like that! I wonder if it would cause the acros to grow abnormally, since there would likely be a lot of light shining from below? I'd theorize it would slow down primary growth by spreading out all of the growth a bit, but I don't know. Very interested to see.
 
I hate to see that, having done something similar myself.
 
Ouch, that bites. It was such a an interesting concept too.
Hope this doesn't totally discourage you.
 
Update time!

Tank was started about 3 weeks ago and I started stocking corals over the past 2 weeks. I know some will say too soon but I started this tank with 5 bags of cycled Matrix from my other tank and bottled bacteria. everything's looking good and wanted to share a few crappy iPhone pictures.

I've added about 16 millepora colonies/colony starter frags. The 2 smaller rocks flanking the main rock structure will be loaded with colorful milleporas.

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I'll apologize in advance for this post being a bit wordy, but I promise it'll be worth the read...

First a little background. I got into saltwater tanks somewhere in the mid to late 80's, right about the time wet/dry filtration started making a presence to marine hobbyists. I bought a hang on wet/dry filter for my first saltwater tank (29g) for $500. Plus I had to buy canister filter to return the water to the tank.

I was fascinated by this filter and it was huge! Made of acrylic it measured 24" left to right, 30" top to bottom and 2" thick. It was filled with about 25lbs of crushed coral and had a surface skimmer box with a siphon tube to get the water into the filter. I was fascinated with this thing, it trickled water over the crushed coral increasing the surface area of water to air.

True to form, one tank just wasn't enough, I wanted another but...I didn't have another $500 to spend. On top of that the aquarium stand I had would only let me fit a 20g long tank on the bottom shelf. On top of all that, there was no way a huge hang on the back filter was going to fit. The more I looked at the filter and how it operated I had an idea that I could make a wet/dry filter that would fit inside the 20g tank.

While I worked on my design, I consulted the local marine shop owner that I bought the fancy filter and all my live stock from. Back then live rocks were a big thing. The main challenge with the hobby back then was that most of the research was coming out of Germany, if you didn't read German, you were out of luck. Luckily the shop owner I paired up with read/spoke German and had some connections with folks in the hobby back in Germany.

Here's a drawing of the design I came up with, I used this to investigate getting a patent.

IMG_5686.jpeg
I finally built a prototype and set it up, worked so well that I built 12 more filters and set up 12 more tanks to further test the effectiveness in different sized tanks. I selected 5 marine shops on the west coast to start and was up to 30 shops by year end selling my filters. I handled all the production myself and produced these in-the-tank wet/dry filters for 3 years then sold the company. Funny thing, most of those first 5 shops all told me that no one would go for an all-in-one tank. I pride myself on being one of the early pioneers in the all-in-one tank craze that eventually lead the industry to major expansion in later years...

What I learned about in this adventure is the effect of dissolved oxygen in the nitrogen cycle. More water surface to air meant more dissolved oxygen which in turn speeds up the nitrogen cycle. In more recent times wet dry filters have become know as nitrate factories and have fallen in popularity for reef tank filtration. I have used this filterer or some variant of it in all my tanks over the years from a 2.5g to a 150g, I just run the media chamber wet now.

Now for the reason I've gone into my history of wet/dry filtration and dissolved Oxygen. While planing this tank, I couldn't help wondering if some wet/dry filtration and increased dissolved oxygen could help this tank produce nitrate. In all my frag tanks over the past several years I have been dosing 10-20mg of Nitrate daily just to keep my nitrates at 5ppm. If I could create an environment that my filter chamber would actively breath fresh air in and out, maybe I wouldn't have to dose Nitrates (as much) as I did in past tanks.

It took some trial and error but using my gyres in alternating gyre mode to increase water entering the media chamber seemed the best option. Only time will tell as I get this tank fully stocked and I can monitor nitrate levels and the need to dose or not...

Here's a video of how the water level fluctuates in the media chamber, it changes by a 2" margin. As the water level drops, fish air is pulled in through the sponge exposing it and some matrix to air. When the gyre cycle reverses, the water level rises pushing all the air back out through the sponge. The effect is like the chamber is breathing. Im curious to see what effect this has on Nitrate levels in the tank.

 
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I'll apologize in advance for this post being a bit wordy, but I promise it'll be worth the read...

First a little background. I got into saltwater tanks somewhere in the mid to late 80's, right about the time wet/dry filtration started making a presence to marine hobbyists. I bought a hang on wet/dry filter for my first saltwater tank (29g) for $500. Plus I had to buy canister filter to return the water to the tank.

I was fascinated by this filter and it was huge! Made of acrylic it measured 24" left to right, 30" top to bottom and 2" thick. It was filled with about 25lbs of crushed coral and had a surface skimmer box with a siphon tube to get the water into the filter. I was fascinated with this thing, it trickled water over the crushed coral increasing the surface area of water to air.

True to form, one tank just wasn't enough, I wanted another but...I didn't have another $500 to spend. On top of that the aquarium stand I had would only let me fit a 20g long tank on the bottom shelf. On top of all that, there was no way a huge hang on the back filter was going to fit. The more I looked at the filter and how it operated I had an idea that I could make a wet/dry filter that would fit inside the 20g tank.

While I worked on my design, I consulted the local marine shop owner that I bought the fancy filter and all my live stock from. Back then live rocks were a big thing. The main challenge with the hobby back then was that most of the research was coming out of Germany, if you didn't read German, you were out of luck. Luckily the shop owner I paired up with read/spoke German and had some connections with folks in the hobby back in Germany.

Here's a drawing of the design I came up with, I used this to investigate getting a patent.

View attachment 86040
I finally built a prototype and set it up, worked so well that I built 12 more filters and set up 12 more tanks to further test the effectiveness in different sized tanks. I selected 5 marine shops on the west coast to start and was up to 30 shops by year end selling my filters. I handled all the production myself and produced these in-the-tank wet/dry filters for 3 years then sold the company. Funny thing, most of those first 5 shops all told me that no one would go for an all-in-one tank. I pride myself on being one of the early pioneers in the all-in-one tank craze that eventually lead the industry to major expansion in later years...

What I learned about in this adventure is the effect of dissolved oxygen in the nitrogen cycle. More water surface to air meant more dissolved oxygen which in turn speeds up the nitrogen cycle. In more recent times wet dry filters have become know as nitrate factories and have fallen in popularity for reef tank filtration. I have used this filterer or some variant of it in all my tanks over the years from a 2.5g to a 150g, I just run the media chamber wet now.

Now for the reason I've gone into my history of wet/dry filtration and dissolved Oxygen. While planing this tank, I couldn't help wondering if some wet/dry filtration and increased dissolved oxygen could help this tank produce nitrate. In all my frag tanks over the past several years I have been dosing 10-20mg of Nitrate daily just to keep my nitrates at 5ppm. If I could create an environment that my filter chamber would actively breath fresh air in and out, maybe I wouldn't have to dose Nitrates (as much) as I did in past tanks.

It took some trial and error but using my gyres in alternating gyre mode to increase water entering the media chamber seemed the best option. Only time will tell as I get this tank fully stocked and I can monitor nitrate levels and the need to dose or not...

Here's a video of how the water level fluctuates in the media chamber, it changes by a 2" margin. As the water level drops, fish air is pulled in through the sponge exposing it and some matrix to air. When the gyre cycle reverses, the water level rises pushing all the air back out through the sponge. The effect is like the chamber is breathing. Im curious to see what effect this has on Nitrate levels in the tank.

So, if I'm understanding this correct, you're trying to bring back the old school nitrate factory by having more air exposure on your media to avoid dosing nitrates? I feel like that just brings back the old problem with the wet/dry filter and hence why its not used anymore. However, I guess now days, we have more corals that are consuming nitrates, so it will be interesting how your test works out.
 
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