MarquiseO;1013707 wrote: Yes, sometimes it becomes so effective at removing those two and it becomes a pain. Yes, you can cut back but your bacteria pop will still continue to grow until eventually they die off due to starvation which sometimes doesn't happen right away. While that is going on, your corals are paling out due to not enough nutrients so its just easier to add nutrients. That's why I do it.
I haven't posted a recent display pic but I will soon. I haven't updated here as much as my others.
Nope, my top-off is pretty consistent. I check the SG every now and then when I do maintenance on my tank and it is always spot on at 1.026 which I calibrate to make sure its correct each time.
Keep in mind that this can be tedious for some if you have a busy schedule but it fits my schedule at night time. I do all the maintenance at night before preparing for bed when I do, do it.
Yes, all those can be bad but I can catch bad chemicals before lots of it is being dosed into the system from when I swap out bottles of supplements. If I dosed 1ml instead of 100mL, all I had to do was look at my dosers UI and see how much was dosed and click "manual dose" to add the other 99ml. Not being a "smart ***" but it is simple as that. I perform maintenance on my equipment same as anyone who does do WCs to prevent failures.
Define Quality salt mix. Is it the proper portions of each element in the mix? Or is that it worked for you so its defined as quality? Does it apply to pricing? IO for example, is cheap, some say its quality but other say its not because it doesn't mix well and occasionally a bad batch is sent out. It, also, takes more of it just to reach the desired SG of 1.026. Like I said cheap doesn't mean, bound to fail. In that case, don't use IO salt. Also, fluctuations happen more with WC than with dosing. I have direct control of the amount of elements going my system while you have varying with every WC and salt mix. Then you have to adjust those parameters either too high or too low with supplements just to get where you want to be. It's not about cost saving tbh, it's about not doing something that is necessary; taking control of your system. The Triton Method, DSR, and Zeovit(uses WC) is all about stripping your tank water down and putting everything back at the amount you would like and continuing based on that. For someone new into this hobby, yes, you can teach them about WC until they catch on to dosing and knowing their tank. Ultimately, it ends with their desire of how their system should be taken care of.
I see you were a bit confused on this, so I will clarify for you. I never said having clear water was a direct issue but I can tell you how it can be in relation to bleaching.
For example, Jack does a WC but has not used carbon or any water clarity products because he knows that his WC will correct the clarity and this is done every 2 weeks. His tank has now become clearer and now more of his LED is penetrating through the water. His LPS were used to an equivalent of 40% output but now that his water has cleared and at a sudden rate, his blasto has now bleached or burned due to the sudden increase of output coming through.
