noisey overflo
- Thread starter swfk44
- Start date
A pic of the overflow that's there would help.
i'm going to try a piece of airline tube, but here is what i have, and the flow is very slight as it is right now.:unsure:
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put a riser pipe and raise that lower screened drain up to about 1-2" under the level of the water just outside the overflow (teeth)...
the noise you're hearing is a combination of the water falling down to that point in the overflow and the gurgle noise coming out of the drain line.. (you can lessen the noise created in the overflow by not making water fall that far)
the noise you're hearing is a combination of the water falling down to that point in the overflow and the gurgle noise coming out of the drain line.. (you can lessen the noise created in the overflow by not making water fall that far)
I have a silencer for that setup. It's a bulb that sits on top with an airhole in it. You put a sponge around the grated pipe. Got that too. It just slips right on and that's it for installation. It was on my 92 corner before I built a Durso overflow for it. I could mail it to you if you want.
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I had the same problem. If it's not your flow, then it probably has something to do with the large holes on the sides of the dursos. Go to dursostandpipe.com and look at how to make your own pipe without those holes. Mine is like night and day its so much quieter now.
<span style="color: red">built one of these and it has help alot, still have some air gurggle trying to come back up the drain pipe which is only 16" long and striaght down to the sump ends above the water level in the sump. thanks for checking back with me.</span>
Make Your Own Durso Standpipe
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Make Your Own Durso Standpipe - Exploded Parts List
Friday, 10 April 2009 03:44
Article Indexhttp://www.dursostandpipes.com/make-your-own-diy">Make Your Own Durso Standpipe</a> [IMG]http://www.dursostandpipes.com/make-your-own-diy?start=1">Parts of the Durso Standpipe</a> [IMG]http://www.dursostandpipes.com/make-your-own-diy?start=2">Air Hole & Water Level</a> [IMG]http://www.dursostandpipes.com/make-your-own-diy?start=3">Exploded Parts List</a> [IMG]http://www.dursostandpipes.com/make-your-own-diy?showall=1">All Pages</a> Page 4 of 4
[B]Exploded Parts List[/B]
The following is a break down of parts used to construct a Durso Standpipe. Only commonly used easy to find plumbing fittings are listed. Specialty fittings such as reducing male adapters and reducing couplings are not illustrated since these are not common fittings.
[IMG]http://www.dursostandpipes.com/images/stories/rendered.jpg alt="" />
#10 - 1¼ PVC End-Cap with vent hole.
#9 - Connector made of 1¼ PVC. Glue to Tee, Teflon taped top for snug fit with End-Cap.
#8 - 1¼ PVC Street-Ell. Trim the connector for a compact design to help fit into smaller overflow chambers. Glued into Tee fitting. This is the water intake for the standpipe. Water level would be expected to be around the middle of this fitting.
#7 - 1¼ PVC Tee. Do not glue this onto the standpipe. Use Teflon tape on the standpipe for a snug fit. This allows it to be removed for height adjustment or maintenance.
#6 - 1¼ PVC Pipe. Sized long enough to get the End-Cap just about equal to the upper rim of the display tank.
#5 - 1¼ PVC Coupling. The stand pipe and reducer bushing are glued to this part.
#4 - 1¼ to 1 inch reducer bushing.
#3 - Connector made of 1 inch PVC. This should be glued into the reducer bushing. If you have a slip bulkhead, this inserts directly into the bulkhead — use Teflon tape for snug fit into the bulkhead.
#2 - OPTIONAL: 1 Inch PVC Male adapter - only needed on threaded bulkheads. You may want to attach to connector with Teflon tape to allow for a quick yank removal from bulkhead. Use Teflon tape on threads before inserting into bulkhead.
#1 - Bulkhead. The opening at the bottom of your overflow chamber to allow water to drain out to the sump. This drawing shows a threaded bulkhead.
Make Your Own Durso Standpipe
Make Your Own Durso Standpipe - Exploded Parts List
Friday, 10 April 2009 03:44
Article Indexhttp://www.dursostandpipes.com/make-your-own-diy">Make Your Own Durso Standpipe</a> [IMG]http://www.dursostandpipes.com/make-your-own-diy?start=1">Parts of the Durso Standpipe</a> [IMG]http://www.dursostandpipes.com/make-your-own-diy?start=2">Air Hole & Water Level</a> [IMG]http://www.dursostandpipes.com/make-your-own-diy?start=3">Exploded Parts List</a> [IMG]http://www.dursostandpipes.com/make-your-own-diy?showall=1">All Pages</a> Page 4 of 4
[B]Exploded Parts List[/B]
The following is a break down of parts used to construct a Durso Standpipe. Only commonly used easy to find plumbing fittings are listed. Specialty fittings such as reducing male adapters and reducing couplings are not illustrated since these are not common fittings.
[IMG]http://www.dursostandpipes.com/images/stories/rendered.jpg alt="" />
#10 - 1¼ PVC End-Cap with vent hole.
#9 - Connector made of 1¼ PVC. Glue to Tee, Teflon taped top for snug fit with End-Cap.
#8 - 1¼ PVC Street-Ell. Trim the connector for a compact design to help fit into smaller overflow chambers. Glued into Tee fitting. This is the water intake for the standpipe. Water level would be expected to be around the middle of this fitting.
#7 - 1¼ PVC Tee. Do not glue this onto the standpipe. Use Teflon tape on the standpipe for a snug fit. This allows it to be removed for height adjustment or maintenance.
#6 - 1¼ PVC Pipe. Sized long enough to get the End-Cap just about equal to the upper rim of the display tank.
#5 - 1¼ PVC Coupling. The stand pipe and reducer bushing are glued to this part.
#4 - 1¼ to 1 inch reducer bushing.
#3 - Connector made of 1 inch PVC. This should be glued into the reducer bushing. If you have a slip bulkhead, this inserts directly into the bulkhead — use Teflon tape for snug fit into the bulkhead.
#2 - OPTIONAL: 1 Inch PVC Male adapter - only needed on threaded bulkheads. You may want to attach to connector with Teflon tape to allow for a quick yank removal from bulkhead. Use Teflon tape on threads before inserting into bulkhead.
#1 - Bulkhead. The opening at the bottom of your overflow chamber to allow water to drain out to the sump. This drawing shows a threaded bulkhead.
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Did you drill a small hole in the cap?
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Durso ftw, I've built plenty in my day
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Go with the herbie method .. I use it on my set up zero noise ... Because no way for air to get in drain pipe ...
<span style="color: olive">what is the herbie method?</span>
<span style="color: red">yes i drilled a hole in the cap and got it to large, so had another cap and stopped when i thought best</span>
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Google "Herbie Animal Overflow Method" and you should get some results. The guy that developed it was called "Herbie" on RC.
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Thanks crewdawg1981,
I use it on my system so i have 2 emergency drains and 2 main drains
Dead silent ... The loudest thing on my tank are the vortechs ...
You can also take a look on you tube couple basic videos of the system.
I will try and take a video of my set up on post here
I use it on my system so i have 2 emergency drains and 2 main drains
Dead silent ... The loudest thing on my tank are the vortechs ...
You can also take a look on you tube couple basic videos of the system.
I will try and take a video of my set up on post here
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Haha... i thought one was an evolution of the other?
Pay no attention to the man behind the curtain...
Pay no attention to the man behind the curtain...
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hey guys - thought you might like to see these videos I made on the herbie method hope that it helps
