Opinions...

wmboots;775333 wrote: if your corals were pale in 77 degree water its time to check your lighting, did you say your using IO or RC either salt is good salt but RC has a few more additives for corals to help with coloration. I've been using RC pretty much since I got into the hobby with a short foray into salinity and colors have always been good.

I have always used Reef crystals. How would I be able to tell if it was my lighting? And what would cause that?
 
How old are the bulbs? They should be replaced at least once a year. Lots of folks will tell you even more than that.
 
Frantz;775340 wrote: How old are the bulbs? They should be replaced at least once a year. Lots of folks will tell you even more than that.

They're brand new. Just changed them about 2 months ago.
 
I would think this is a stability problem, if your corals are use to a higher temp and it had now risen it would cause bleaching but I bet if you keep it up there I would bet they color back up with enough time and stability

Edit: I would think this is a stability problem, if your corals are use to a higher temp and it had now risen it would cause bleaching but I bet if you keep it up there I would bet they color back up with enough time and stability
 
cbj25;775345 wrote: I would think this is a stability problem, if your corals are use to a higher temp and it had now risen it would cause bleaching but I bet if you keep it up there I would bet they color back up with enough time and stability

Edit: I would think this is a stability problem, if your corals are use to a higher temp and it had now risen it would cause bleaching but I bet if you keep it up there I would bet they color back up with enough time and stability

81-83 was the normal temperature before I got a fan. I'm going to leave the fan running until I can find a solution. I just still don't understand what my light would have to do with pale colors?
 
I still think it's temperature related.

But hey, what do I know?
 
Never *once* have I claimed to know everything.

I do know this individual, and his tank though.

Jenn
 
JennM;775403 wrote: Never *once* have I claimed to know everything.

I do know this individual, and his tank though.

Jenn

I have the fan running. Temperature currently at 78. If the temperature stays in that range, is there an estimate of time of when I should start to see an improvement? I've seen a slight improvement in my acan just with using the KoralColor.
 
I can take weeks for corals to regain colour. Change is gradual.
 
Jenn, quit selling this guy albino corals. We see what's really going on! :)

I bet there's some other chemistry issue. The heat could do it, but I would put that at the end of my diagnostic check list, and normally it would have to be bouncing all over the place to cause big issues.

Where are your ca, alk, and mg levels? I didn't see that info listed anywhere. I'm putting my money on imbalance
 
Ripped Tide;775413 wrote: Jenn, quit selling this guy albino corals. We see what's really going on! :)

I bet there's some other chemistry issue. The heat could do it, but I would put that at the end of my diagnostic check list, and normally it would have to be bouncing all over the place to cause big issues.

Where are your ca, alk, and mg levels? I didn't see that info listed anywhere. I'm putting my money on imbalance

I'm still going to keep the temperature at about 78. Alkalinity is 4.5 meq/L. pH is 8.2; nitrates, nitrites, and ammonia are 0. I don't test for Ca or Mg. I dose reef fusion 1&2(Ca and Alk) and Kent tech M.
 
That alk is a little on the higher side, which is ok if the cal and mg are balanced with it. Just so you can mark it off the list, you may want to check the cal and mg too.

If the alk is 4.5, the cal needs to be around 460 and mg around 1375. If you are in that ball park, you can cross it off the list. But if your numbers are far from those that I listed, you may want to look into correcting those.

Edit: I keep my reef around:

3.5mg/l
420ppm
1350ppm
 
Ripped Tide;775424 wrote: That alk is a little on the higher side, which is ok if the cal and mg are balanced with it. Just so you can mark it off the list, you may want to check the cal and mg too.

If the alk is 4.5, the cal needs to be around 460 and mg around 1375. If you are in that ball park, you can cross it off the list. But if your numbers are far from those that I listed, you may want to look into correcting those.

Edit: I keep my reef around:

3.5mg/l
420ppm
1350ppm
I don't have a test kit for Ca or Mg, but I do believe the reef fusions are supposed to complement each other.
 
You are correct, they are "supposed" to be a balanced product and they "are". Different tanks have different consumption rates. If you are dosing based on only one of the components being used, it's possible that the calcium and mag are depleting slower or faster than the alk. Thus results in an imbalance
 
Ripped Tide;775428 wrote: You are correct, they are "supposed" to be a balanced product and they "are". Different tanks have different consumption rates. If you are dosing based on only one of the components being used, it's possible that the calcium and mag are depleting slower or faster than the alk. Thus results in an imbalance

I see what you're saying. I'll get a test kit next time I go to my lfs. How often should I test that? I dose once a week.
 
JCampbell;775341 wrote: They're brand new. Just changed them about 2 months ago.
Do you have salt buildup on the glass tops? Something may be obstructing the lights from penetrating through the glass? What is the distance between the lights and the top of the water?

How often are you adding new salt? Are you monitoring the density of the aquarium, i.e. Salinity? Are you adding quality water for any evaporation loss? Maybe you should take off glass tops for a couple of weeks to see if there are any positive changes to your current situation?

I hope this info is helpful. Maybe you have already answered these questions, I brainstormed a little, and I have posted my comments here. I hope this info is helpful.
 
I'm sure you'll get different answers, but once you establish how much you're using of any given trace element in a given time, if you keep things stable you won't have to test all that often. Personally I do the general stuff weekly and then specialty monthly. Basically still using up my API test (which I have seen first hand how junky they are) and then re-affirm those test and expend to others monthly, I use to do less, but thought I might be tempting fate, though I never had problems. Just keep in mind as the colonies grow they will be using more.
 
This is what I would do:

Take the water with you to the LFS and ask them to test that for you. If they come back and say that everything is good, then that is a good sign! I would still buy the kits. Regular maintenance testing is a good habit to pick up. Even if you water is good, weekly testing will allow you to catch it before it is an issue.

If there is an imbalance, a nice sized water change would be my first step. Daily testing and daily chemical corrections may need to follow, depending how far it is off.
 
WannabeeaReefKeeper;775435 wrote: Do you have salt buildup on the glass tops? Something may be obstructing the lights from penetrating through the glass? What is the distance between the lights and the top of the water?

How often are you adding new salt? Are you monitoring the density of the aquarium, i.e. Salinity? Are you adding quality water for any evaporation loss? Maybe you should take off glass tops for a couple of weeks to see if there are any positive changes to your current situation?

I hope this info is helpful. Maybe you have already answered these questions, I brainstormed a little, and I have posted my comments here. I hope this info is helpful.

I do have salt buildup and dust. I try to keep them cleaned off every so often. That's another reason I want a canopy; these glass tips are an eye sore! I do a 5 gallon water change every Saturday. I use RO/DI water to top off. My salinity runs at 1.023.

Edit:
Ripped Tide;775438 wrote: This is what I would do:

Take the water with you to the LFS and ask them to test that for you. If they come back and say that everything is good, then that is a good sign! I would still buy the kits. Regular maintenance testing is a good habit to pick up. Even if you water is good, weekly testing will allow you to catch it before it is an issue.

If there is an imbalance, a nice sized water change would be my first step. Daily testing and daily chemical corrections may need to follow, depending how far it is off.

Okay, could Ca and Mg really make the colors pale? I didn't know they could do that.
 
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