PH low even with Kalk!

[rostato]

I am probably over reacting here, but I cannot for the life of me get my PH over 8.0. I figured with adding Kalk I would at least get it to 8.2.

Anyway I have been tinkering with my new to me MRC Kalk reactor and the drip rates, and basically I cannot get my PH above 8.0 without drastically raising my ALK, or calcium.

I put 6.5 oz of kalk in the reactor, and have the drip rate set to 80ml per hour. This does not fully take care of evap, but I have a JBJ ATO taking care of the rest. The reactor mixes the kalk every 5 hours for 2 min.

This keeps my ALK around 8-9 and my calcium around 460-480PPM.

My Mag is finally staedy at 1350

I am just really confused, my corals (birds nest, pocillopora, Clam, Favia)all seem to grow, but they don't have much color, and my xenia barely pulses. The only stuff that doesnt seem to grow are my 3 different kinds of zoas.

I test with API, and just added a PH prode to my reefkeeper. The PH drops all the way to 7.6 at night with reverse daylight on my fuge, and peakes at 7.98 right before lights out. My API kit constantly reads 8.0 during the day.

Whats the deal? Am I not adding enough kalk to the reactor in fear of killing stuff? Thats the only thing I can come up with, but I don't want to destroy my tank by adding too much kalk to the reactor.

 

[oz]

Just a thought - have you tested the kalk output to make sure it's in the 12.0 range?

 

[skriz]

Have you vented the house for fresh air lately?

 

[rostato]

Skriz;255174 wrote: Have you vented the house for fresh air lately?

I forgot to mention that, yes I did, doesnt change a thing...

 

[rostato]

Oz;255173 wrote: Just a thought - have you tested the kalk output to make sure it's in the 12.0 range?

No, my API kit does not go that high, and I just got the PH probe, that seems like it will be messy! Should I do that?

 

[derek_s]

Well, a ph of 8.0 isnt bad. Many people have trouble maintaining 8.3, and most tanks are probably around 7.8 to 8.1 (and I have seen some very exceptional tanks that are in this range).

So I say, as long as it is stable, dont sweat it.

The color issue may be something else. What is wrong with the color? Brownish, or just not very rich? Or it may be more of a lighting thing. What are your lights?

Also some people report better colors with the addition of aminos such as Elos and AquaVitro fuel, although I have not tried them.

 

[rostato]

The colors are just not very rich. They are there, but just not popping the way I would like. I have a Nova Extreme Pro 6 bulb t5 fixture with stock bulbs. They are only 6 months old.

It is just wierd because my other two tanks never had problems with a low PH.

 

[derek_s]

Well, tanks usually become more acidic over time, just from natural poo and stuff (I believe this may also contribute to old tank syndrome), but honestly I have never had a tank that was magically 8.3 without lots chems. I just leave mine alone at 7.9-8 and it does well. It will be up to you whether or not youchase that number, but I know Brandon taught me a long time ago to just leave it be unless it is really off. Stability/consistency trumps constant swings to and from ideal PH anyday.

I bet the color problem is your lamps. Current USA lamps are not very great IMO, and just cant compare to a really good set. If you have ever seen the difference between a coralife or current Metal halide lamp versus a pheonix, XM, Ushio, etc, you will know exactly what I am talking about. Unfortunatly in reef keeping, you get what you pay for in lighting.

Try some ATI or aqua science lamps when you can. If you were closer I'd loan you some of mine to try out...

 

[derek_s]

is your nova extreme on of the new ones with single lamp reflectors, or just one big reflector?

 

[skriz]

my corals always look better after a water change; how often do you do wc's?

and 8.0 is just fine. Keep it stable and you'll be okay. I've never really been too concerned with exact numbers; rather I prefer stability and wc's. (although I am EXTREMEMLY slack with my wc's)

 

[enderg60]

Mine stays around 7.9-8.1 worst thing i did was spend 4 months trying different stuff to raise it.

Just leave it be and dont worry about it. As long as it stays over 7.8 at night your fine.

 

[victor626nj]

i have learned in this hobby not to always aim for numbers if everything is happy leave it alone ....that aside my ph would be around 7.6 at night and 7.8 when the lights go on ......everything in my tank is happy as can be and i get great growth and color on both fish and corals

 

[oz]

rostato;255182 wrote: No, my API kit does not go that high, and I just got the PH probe, that seems like it will be messy! Should I do that?

You are only testing the saturated water not the kalk itself. you can always wipe the probe clean after you test.

 

[rostato]

I have the new Nova Extreme with the wanna be individual reflectors...one big one with humps in it to contour to the bulb.

I really want to get better bulbs, but just don't have the cash flow with the holidays.

I do water changes every 3 or 4 weeks schedule depending, although I have been doing them every 2 weeks lately because of a lack of a job...



Hmm today my PH stayed at 7.66 on the monitor...going to check it with the test kit.

 

[rostato]

Yup API reads about 7.7-7.8 ish... I just don't get it...oh well.

 

[dannybradley]

Here's a few things that can cause a depressed pH.

Are you dosing two-part solution, or any of the like systems? Those systems use Baking Soda(sodium bicarbonate) as the alkaline buffer. The problem with this is that the pk value of NaHCO3 is 7.6. It always pushes the pH towards that value. If your alk is 9dKH, and the majority of that is NaHCO3, that may be your problem. Try using a buffer that contains borate and carbonate, instead of just bicarbonate.

Do you have a deep sand bed or heavy fish load? DSBs have an enormous surface area covered with bacteria. This bacteria produces CO2 as metabolic waste which can depress the pH. Bacteria is, after all, the most abundant of life in our systems.

Is your system properly oxygenated and circulated? The more you break the surface tension, the more O2 enters and CO2 exits. Good circualtion assures that CO2, which is heavier than O2, is brought to the surface, where it can exit the water.

 

[rostato]

Good points. My fish load is in my sig.

I have alot of flow with a mag 7 return going full blast, and 2 koralia 2's that are blowing the surface area at a pretty decent rate. I will point them more upright to get more surface agitation, and see what happens, but I bet there won't be any change.

My sand bed is about 3-4 inches deep....

 

[rostato]

DannyBradley;255409 wrote:
Is your system properly oxygenated and circulated? The more you break the surface tension, the more O2 enters and CO2 exits. Good circualtion assures that CO2, which is heavier than O2, is brought to the surface, where it can exit the water.

I just wanted to say thanks. While I had pretty decent surface aggitation, I think this was my problem.

I pointed both my koralias at the surface, and got a whole lot more aggitation, and since I did that my PH rose to 8.0, and has not moved since. It has only been a little over a day, but at leat it is within a more acceptable range.

I did not realize how important all that surface agitation was, I though if there was some then you were good to go. Again this hobby makes me learn something new...I love it!:thumbs:

 

[dannybradley]

No problem, glad we figured it out.

 

[rostato]

I will keep monitoring it, but this seems like the solution...Thanks again!