Pics of the fragroom :)

[taftonomos]

Finally making some progress. It was just studded out room when I started.

I ran 4 20amp circuits to the room.

#1 was for the window AC and a dehumidifier
#2 was for the overhead lighting (fluorescent) and the exhaust fan
#3 was for the lighting - planned 8 250watt MH's
#4 was for the sump/pumps/etc..

The humidifier is automatic. I still need to run a hose from the bucket through the wall outside so it will auto empty

The wall fan is on a humidistat.

I need to purchase a baseboard type heater for the room. The basement isn't finished yet, so this room will be self contained on the window AC, heater, and dehumidifier. I did add a return and 2 HVAC vents in the ceiling, so in the even I'm financially able to finish the basement, I'll just have to hook them up and the room will be climate controlled. I plan to simply install a register vent on the door to allow the room to pull in fresh air when the exhaust fan is on.

Before I sheet rocked the room, I sprayed an anti-fungal fog on everything. We used greenboard to rock the room, and then I used 3 coats of valspar paint after priming the walls. As you might see, when I painted the trim some of the masking tape ripped off some of the paint so I still ahve to go back and finish that, as well as caulk in the baseboard.

I bought the tile from Lowes....I've never tiled anything in my life but I guess it came out ok. I'm a perfectionist, so I'm my hardest critic. Now my wife wants me to tile all over the house lol!

I finished the table today. Used 2x4's for the side rails, and a piece of 1/2" oak for the top. The table has a 4x4 for the middle cross beam, and several 2x4's spanning shortwase across. The ply is screwed into the 2x4's all over. Legs are 4x4's, with mitered boards holding them in place. I need to shim the legs flat.

I just found that foam in a package at lowes....it said 32sq ft and it was 4" wide....somehow my math isn't adding up, because the table is 4x8 = 32sw feet, but there isn't enough foam...LOL. Back to lowes tomorrow.

I did use pressure treated lumber and the correct deck screws for the fasteners. I'm still wondering if I should laquer or varnish the table though?

Anyway, enough talk, here are the pics. Hopefully tomorrow I'll have time to put the tanks on the table, and start making/fabbing the overflows. Plan is to use a dart pump for the return, 150g rubbermaid sump (from tractor supply) and a few modded MJ's for circulation.

Enough talk, here are the pics:

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[cameron]

JEALOUS am I!

 

[purplegorilla]

very nice man. I wish my basement isn't as cluttered with bunch of car parts, engine and etc..Otherwise I would build me a little room too. :up:

 

[schwaggs]

NICE!

One comment, running 8 250W lights on a single 20amp circuit is cutting it pretty close especialy if you are using HQI magnetic ballasts... it would be a good idea to split the lights and pumps between circuits 3 and 4. That way when a GFCI trips, it will only take out 1/2 of your pumps and 1/2 of your lights...

 

[taftonomos]

Schwaggs;118382 wrote: NICE!

One comment, running 8 250W lights on a single 20amp circuit is cutting it pretty close especialy if you are using HQI magnetic ballasts... it would be a good idea to split the lights and pumps between circuits 3 and 4. That way when a GFCI trips, it will only take out 1/2 of your pumps and 1/2 of your lights...

Good idea there. Pretty sure I won't be running all those lights up front, but that was the final idea. I suppose I can probably run some lights off the sump circuit like you suggested. Only power items for that right now is the single dart pump, 4 MJ's and a controller, and a 500watt heater controlled by a ranco. If my addition is right thats only about 10 amps.

I was going to run regular mag ballasts. They say 1.7amp draw on them, or at least I thought they did?
I did run GFI's on all of the leading plugs going into the room

 

[skriz]

I would use circuits 2, 3, &4 for the tank lighting and pumps. the flourescent lighting and vent fan dont need 20 amps!

 

[taftonomos]

purpleGORILLA;118381 wrote: very nice man. I wish my basement isn't as cluttered with bunch of car parts, engine and etc..Otherwise I would build me a little room too. :up:

I should take pics of the other parts of the basement....LOL. A few motors, a welder, a bunch of car stuff, scrap aluminum and stainless. I used to have a metal fab shop in Daytona beach before I moved up here to take a new job/career. I do miss playing with cars, and the fab work.

 

[skriz]

I'm not a fan of using gfci's on the pumps. You only want stuff to shut down that will kill you (lights, powerheads...). You don't want the gfci to trip and shut down the main pumps...that's just me though.

 

[skriz]

btw, looks BEAUTIFUL!

 

[taftonomos]

Skriz;118404 wrote: I'm not a fan of using gfci's on the pumps. You only want stuff to shut down that will kill you (lights, powerheads...). You don't want the gfci to trip and shut down the main pumps...that's just me though.

Good idea. I can move the GFI plug further down so that I can run the pump without worrying.

I know the overhead lights and fan dont need it, but that #12 wire came in a long spool.

Skriz;118405 wrote: btw, looks BEAUTIFUL!

Thanks man!

 

[taftonomos]

Do you think I should varnish or somehow treat the wood? Like polyurethane it somehow or something?

 

[skriz]

I would paint it with some marine paint or some good exterior paint to help protect it.

 

[gwhiz]

TAftonomos;118414 wrote: Do you think I should varnish or somehow treat the wood? Like polyurethane it somehow or something?

I'd put 3 coats of poly on it. Most marine paint and varnish are that 'cause they're UV resistant...not a problem when you're out of the sun. Oil based poly is about as water proof as you can get indoors.

 

[cameron]

Skriz;118404 wrote: I'm not a fan of using gfci's on the pumps. You only want stuff to shut down that will kill you (lights, powerheads...). You don't want the gfci to trip and shut down the main pumps...that's just me though.

Pumps especially large return pumps can fry your butt. A Mag 12 probably pulls around 1 amp which is well more than enough to roast you. For that matter something as low as 10 mA can do the job which would be any electrical device pulling a couple watts on 120v circuit. Not saying it would happen, but I think I would GFCI any submerged electrical connection along with anything near water for that matter.

Bad news of course is that a GFCI is not a guaranteee, but with one you have a better chance of survival.

 

[james s_]

Agreed. GFCI's are a gamble when it comes to tripping,but well worth the trouble when your life is depending on it. I would just plan on having some sort of UPS system that can operate a couple small powerheads just in case the power goes out/GFCI trips.
Room looks awesome BTW.

 

[taftonomos]

crap, you guys are scaring me. I've never really worried about being shocked, let alone killed, while working with my fish tanks!

I brushed on one coat of poly tonight, another in the AM, and another when I get home tomorrow night. Then I'll be able to set the tanks in place and start working on the overflow and returns..

 

[schwaggs]

You are taking a big risk IMO, if you don't run GFCI on EVERY circuit on EVERY outlet in a basement fish room. All it takes is some saltwater dripping onto a pump to create a deadly situation. Use high quality GFCI units with LED monitoring lights so you can visualy tell when they are tripped. Split your pumps and lights between several circuits so when one GFCI trips, it doesn't stop all circulation and lighting. For example, put the return pump on a diffecent circuit from your power heads...

 

[skriz]

Cameron;118505 wrote: Pumps especially large return pumps can fry your butt. A Mag 12 probably pulls around 1 amp which is well more than enough to roast you. For that matter something as low as 10 mA can do the job which would be any electrical device pulling a couple watts on 120v circuit. Not saying it would happen, but I think I would GFCI any submerged electrical connection along with anything near water for that matter.

Bad news of course is that a GFCI is not a guaranteee, but with one you have a better chance of survival.

yes, these will roast you in a hurry(I didn't mean to imply that these pumps can not kill you). What I meant to say is to isolate things that you will not be in contact with..things that you will have your hands on.

I never ever ever touch my return pump, ever. Having said that, If I die, will you guys help my wife take care of the tank? :unsure:

 

[gwhiz]

Schwaggs;118546 wrote: You are taking a big risk IMO, if you don't run GFCI on EVERY circuit on EVERY outlet in a basement fish room. All it takes is some saltwater dripping onto a pump to create a deadly situation. Use high quality GFCI units with LED monitoring lights so you can visualy tell when they are tripped. Split your pumps and lights between several circuits so when one GFCI trips, it doesn't stop all circulation and lighting. For example, put the return pump on a diffecent circuit from your power heads...

You can run multiple GFCI's on a circuit. I've got a 20 amp circuit run to four switches (Powerheads, Return, Skimmer, & Lights), each switch has a GFCI outlet downstream so if the lights trip, for example, it doesn't take the pump out too.

 

[mojo]

Just don't put your chiller on GFCI... I recently wired my sump room in the basement, and had every plug as a GFCI. The chiller (presumably because of the compressor) kept tripping it, so it needs to be changed to a normal plug...

Oh - and VERY nice!