Plumbing question

It does, thanks. So it looks like your run it off your return pump. I was thinking about setting my manifold on the main drain before it empties out into the sump. Is there a reason why this would not be preferred?

1) there is probably not enough pressure to push the drain line water from the main tank into all of these reactors
2) using returned water (after skimmer/refuium) and then further polish the water via reactor and what-not is more efficient...at least in theory.
 
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1) there is probably not enough pressure to push the drain line water from the main tank into all of these reactors
2) using returned water (after skimmer/refuium) and then further polish the water via reactor and what-not is more efficient...at least in theory.
Thank you for the insight
 
I would put unions where you can. It makes it easy to take apart if you ever have any issues with your plumbing. But it doesnt look like you have much room. So if possible a union where you have it questioned is good. Also if you can put one between the manifold and left return Ts, and maybe a union on the left return. Also just thinking maybe a ball valve on the left return before the union so that if you ever have an issue with one of your returns you can still run one of them while working on the other. These are just suggestions and just thinking about worse case scenarios if you ever have to work on it.
Ok, I'm going to add a union directly below the manifold T, thank you!
 
if you go with that ball valve take a look at how big it is. The 3/4" is more than 5" long.
 
That would work as well. People say that gate valves are better than ball valves. I just went the ball valve because it was cheaper.
 
Ok thanks, I've had an impossible time trying to find a 3/4" slip x slip gate valve
BRS is the only ones I know of that carry one.

 
In other words we are fine with what we have...
Yes what you have will work. People dont like those particular ball valves because they say that over time it will start to get harder to turn if you ever have to adjust it. I got the one on Amazon because of the unions.
 
In other words we are fine with what we have...
The difference between the one you have and the one Hui linked from Amazon is the internal seals and the union one can be disassembled & cleaned.
If the one you have is hard to turn now it will only get more difficult in the future.
 
A gate valve is much better for the precise control of flow. For simple on/off a ball valve is fine and less expensive.
While i dont have a direct comparison for using a gate valve as opposed to a ball valve...I was able to tune how much water was going through my main drain in my bean animal style overflow relatively easy.
 
The difference between the one you have and the one Hui linked from Amazon is the internal seals and the union one can be disassembled & cleaned.
If the one you have is hard to turn now it will only get more difficult in the future.
It's easy to turn now but we would have to destroy the plumbing to replace it
 
BRS is the only ones I know of that carry one.

Again, no 3/4" option
 
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