Plumbing Set Up: Need Immediate Assistance

[gmpolan]

So i have purchased everything for my new tank and i am attempting to the plumb this bad boy but i want to make sure that i do this right. I want to make this set up as easy as possible for water changes and mantainence. The set up includes:

72 gal bow
20 gal sump
UV sterilizer 9 watt coral life
octopus recirc 110 plumped externally
Mag 7

This set up is supposed to take place tom morning so any input would be greatly appreciated. Please advise on if i should make any changes or switch to pvc, ball valves, etc. as i am not sure if i need to control the water flow into the skimmer or out of it for that matter. Also, i have no clue where i should put the sterlizer.

The lines coming down is currently set up with flex tubing and the lines to the skimmer are the same size tubing that came with the skimmer plumbing into the nipple. The lines going up from the mag 7 are pvc piping with a ball valve then pvc back into the system.

Ps. i was in quite a hurry at work so no jokes about my crappy drawing. I had no time to get to visio, photoshop or any other decent prog besides publisher. Thanks again...
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[gmpolan]

Or it can be set up this way if desired..thoughts?
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[mojo]

Looks fine to me. I'm not trying to belittle your thought process; however, it appears you've arrived at what's considered to be a pretty standard setup. This is good, though - it means it'll work well.

The only part that I question, and this is because I don't have an octopus skimmer, is whether or not that skimmer is designed to work externally. If it is, then great. If not, then you may have problems with leaking. Someone else will need to chime in on that part.

 

[gmpolan]

mojo;406304 wrote: Looks fine to me. I'm not trying to belittle your thought process; however, it appears you've arrived at what's considered to be a pretty standard setup. This is good, though - it means it'll work well.

The only part that I question, and this is because I don't have an octopus skimmer, is whether or not that skimmer is designed to work externally. If it is, then great. If not, then you may have problems with leaking. Someone else will need to chime in on that part.

No not at all, i just have never plumbed a tank before.
Ive always had internal plumbing in cubes and whatnot but which set up are you saying is fine, either or..?

The octopus recirc 110 can be plumbed either internally or externally so it should be fine as far as i know but thanks so much for the input.

 

[son of adam]

I like the second one. Have fun, I love setting up new systems!

 

[bobz]

IMO, I would go with the secong picture. I think you could probably eliminate the ball valve coming back from the skimmer. I think you want to control the flow to the skimmer to be able to better dial it in. The other thing I would consider is using the combination ball valve/union for the PVC connections. It is much easier to disconnect for cleaning and maintenance if you can simply unscrew the union. Lowes carries them, I know. Other than that, Chris made a good point on the skimmer... if it can overflow I would have some sort of pan or something to catch the overflow if it is not going to be in the skimmer... but I have no experience with Octopus either.

 

[mojo]

Ah - I didn't see the second post until I had already posted my initial response.

The second one would be better, so that you can control the flow in both directions. However, please, please avoid the valve returning from the skimmer to the sump...you're setting yourself up for a skimmer overflow by restricting that line.

 

[gmpolan]

Thanks guys for the input, i really do appreciate all the help

Now, should i keep the line running from the T to the skimmer pvc or use flex tubing to be able to fit the nipple on the skimmer? or do you pull the nipple and switch to a smaller piece of pvc to fit in there?

Thanks...

 

[jennm]

I would not put a valve on any drain, period. Drains are gravity fed. You don't want or need to impede the flow of the drains.

I'd probably put a union just above the return pump so you can remove it to service it, and if desired, a valve above the union so you can turn it off before removing the pump to service it.

I like scenario 1 better - with a union added.

JMHO.

Jenn

 

[gmpolan]

So jenn, you are noting to allow whatever the pump on skimmer pulls in through the standardized tubing to not be to much for the skimmer since there is no control on amount of water intake...?

JennM;406322 wrote: I would not put a valve on any drain, period. Drains are gravity fed. You don't want or need to impede the flow of the drains.

I'd probably put a union just above the return pump so you can remove it to service it, and if desired, a valve above the union so you can turn it off before removing the pump to service it.

I like scenario 1 better - with a union added.

JMHO.

Jenn

 

[bobz]

It did not look like there was a valve on either versions of the drawing on the drain line. If so, I missed it and agree with Jenn. The only difference was the feed to the skimmer that I could see. As for the skimmer connection, you can find a reducer and a nipple that will take it down to the size you need to connect to the skimmer input.

 

[gmpolan]

There isn't ...

bobz;406325 wrote: It did not look like there was a valve on either versions of the drawing on the drain line. If so, I missed it and agree with Jenn. The only difference was the feed to the skimmer that I could see. As for the skimmer connection, you can find a reducer and a nipple that will take it down to the size you need to connect to the skimmer input.

 

[jennm]

I just looked again... no it's not on the drain line but at first glance it looked to be.

It looks like there is a line coming off the return, teeing off to the skimmer. Then another coming off the skimmer back into the sump.

I've never done a config like that - but IMO it would be a delicate balance to try to control amount into skimmer and amount coming out. One wrong move and too much goes into the skimmer, not enough comes out and the result is an overflow out the collection cup.

Typically in a situation with an externally plumbed skimmer, there is a valve controlling the amount of water going into the skimmer and a dedicated pump for the skimmer, and the skimmer output flows freely back into the sump. Less risk of back-pressure either causing the skimmer to malfunction, or worse, to overflow.

Jenn

 

[jennm]

IMO the Mag 7 won't be enough to do both the return and skimmer feed. Others will possibly disagree on that but I usually try for 8-10 x turnover on the return pump. A Mag 7 at 4' of head alone pushes about 475GPH ( http://155.212.86.141/instructionsheets/ZG120.PDF">http://155.212.86.141/instructionsheets/ZG120.PDF</a> ) If you tee it off to the skimmer, that goes WAY down.

I have looked for a pump/GPH recommendation for that skimmer but haven't found one yet. I understand that it's a recirculating skimmer but it still has to have enough water going through it to skim effectively.

Assuming you could get the split to 50/50 (and the water will take the path of least resistance), that's only 237 GPH up to the tank, and 237 GPH to the skimmer. The latter may be fine for the skimmer, but that's only 3 times turnover in your tank.

I realize you can add powerheads etc. to the tank but that turnover rate still seems rather low to me.

Again - JMHO.

Jenn

 

[stroid]

bobz;406325 wrote: It did not look like there was a valve on either versions of the drawing on the drain line. If so, I missed it and agree with Jenn. The only difference was the feed to the skimmer that I could see. As for the skimmer connection, you can find a reducer and a nipple that will take it down to the size you need to connect to the skimmer input.

Yo bob can you find that reducer at lowes? My biggest concern is plumbing in the skimmer.

 

[acroholic]

mojo;406318 wrote: Ah - I didn't see the second post until I had already posted my initial response.

The second one would be better, so that you can control the flow in both directions. However, please, please avoid the valve returning from the skimmer to the sump...you're setting yourself up for a skimmer overflow by restricting that line.

I'd definitily go with the second setup.

Like Chris said, you don't need the flow valve in the skimmer return if you have the wedge pipe in the Octopus. I converted my Wedge Pipe to a gate valve, and I am glad I did.

Only other option you might consider instead of feeding the skimmer from the overflow is to have a dedicated feed pump, like a mag 3 or 5 for the skimmer, and just set that in your sump. That is what I do.

You may get more consistent skimmer water levels with a feed pump (what I have heard), but I don't have experience feeding from the overflow.
Dave

 

[gmpolan]

Thanks for all the input guys, i really do appreciate it and hopefully i wont have to many problems setting this up tom...

 

[jonathan]

I would drive the skimmer with the tank drain and have a 2nd line tee (bypass) running to the sump for what the skimmer couldn't handle. You will end up with a much cleaner sump by skimming first.