Red cyano help

[jennm]

Dunno, Dave. I never thought about setting it between the RO and the DI. I just run 'em on the incoming and product water.

Jenn

 

[cr500_af]

RaisedOnNintendo;614605 wrote: I got a bad memory so I always rememberd vanilla ice, now I gotta member a new one nemo. Need something tall next time.

Back to cyano loose wires in the tank may cause cyano like a short.

Do HUH?

Electricity causes bacteria? :doh:

 

[rugdog65]

incoming TDS makes a big difference. I moved a couple of years ago. My old incoming was 50-60. new location as high as 150-160. Before I could make hundreds of gallons with no worries no I am fighting filter replacement regularly to keep outcoming TDS between 0-3. I just replaced my sediment filter recently and have made maybe 200 gallonsand noticed yesterday it already looks discolored and TDS out is at 3....count your blessings at 30-40 in

 

[grouper therapy]

RUGDOG65;614968 wrote: incoming TDS makes a big difference. I moved a couple of years ago. My old incoming was 50-60. new location as high as 150-160. Before I could make hundreds of gallons with no worries no I am fighting filter replacement regularly to keep outcoming TDS between 0-3. I just replaced my sediment filter recently and have made maybe 200 gallonsand noticed yesterday it already looks discolored and TDS out is at 3....count your blessings at 30-40 in

I agree, but monitoring them makes no difference in the performance of the membrane.

 

[jennm]

Perhaps not but it will give you an idea of when it might become exhausted, and if you change the prefilters sufficiently often, it will prolong the life of the membrane.

Jenn

 

[grouper therapy]

JennM;615078 wrote: Perhaps not but it will give you an idea of when it might become exhausted, and if you change the prefilters sufficiently often, it will prolong the life of the membrane.

Jenn

True. However putting it after the membrane will tell you exactly when it has become exhausted or when it is starting too, thereby extending the life of expensive DI resin. It also enables you to place a valve in the waste line instead of a flow restrictor so you can tune the flow to a more efficient effluent/ waste ratio. To me it is like using the MPG reading in your automobile instead of the fuel gauge to decide when to refuel.

 

[glaze888]

i know about to get a lashing from somebody here. i know chemicals are not always the answer for things but in my case i couldnt get rid of mine until i used kent marine polyox it worked great! it just oxidizes the food so the cyano cant use it for survival. use this as a last resort and EXACTLY as it says on the bottle.... ok now i am ready for someone to throw stones!

 

[cr500_af]

GLAZE888;615145 wrote: i know about to get a lashing from somebody here. i know chemicals are not always the answer for things but in my case i couldnt get rid of mine until i used kent marine polyox it worked great! it just oxidizes the food so the cyano cant use it for survival. use this as a last resort and EXACTLY as it says on the bottle.... ok now i am ready for someone to throw stones!

No stones here. Early in my time in the hobby, I used Boyd's ChemiClean along with nutrient removal methods. Worked absolutely as described.
I would guess that it would have come back had I not altered my feeding and maintenance habits, though.

Now I think I would have tried the non-chemical method for longer, instead of the quick fix, but it did the job.