Cyano- PLEASE HELP- i'm going nuts

[Trizzino]

I just did a test on the tank and attached are the results.

Alk is a little on the low side. Magnesium is low. What salt are you using? And what did you use to test? Phosphate is high with no nitrates. If you’re having algae growth the phosphate may actually be higher because it’s being consumed by the algae.

Amazon.com : COODIA Internal Green Water Killer Filter Aquarium Tank U-V Pump : Pet Supplies

Amazon.com : COODIA Internal Green Water Killer Filter Aquarium Tank U-V Pump : Pet Supplies

www.amazon.com

any thoughts on this? it has really good reviews?

Don’t change too much at once. Make small changes and give it time. If you change too much you won’t know what your problem was and/or you may create a new problem and you won’t know what it was that you changed that caused it.

 

[Shawn]

Yes I do, but I only feed what they eat; they usually miss about 4-5 pellets.

Pellets are super high in phosphates - Try frozen food. My tank dynamics changed for the best once I switched to frozen. Pellets and flakes are just so nutrient dense.

 

[sharis100]

Besides getting your levels in order, natural controls for cyano:

CUC that eats cyano bacteria should be added- trochus and cerith snails.
Next, using a bacteria additive to fight cyano.
Highly recommend KZ cyano clean used with KZ zeofood. There are other bacterial lines from other companies that work. Even Algae barn sells a bacterial line
Dosing phytoplankton when your nitrates are low will also help to balance your phosphate nitrate balance.

 

[Riseupreefer]

Alk is a little on the low side. Magnesium is low. What salt are you using? And what did you use to test? Phosphate is high with no nitrates. If you’re having algae growth the phosphate may actually be higher because it’s being consumed by the algae.


Don’t change too much at once. Make small changes and give it time. If you change too much you won’t know what your problem was and/or you may create a new problem and you won’t know what it was that you changed that caused it.

TBH i'll have to check; i'm not sure what salt the LFS uses. That's where i buy all of my RODI/Saltwater. For now i'll just turn off the skimmer.

 

[lmm1967]

TBH i'll have to check; i'm not sure what salt the LFS uses. That's where i buy all of my RODI/Saltwater. For now i'll just turn off the skimmer.

Test your water before using in your tank - be sure that is not your problem with phosphates. It's quite common in our area for even RODI water to contain phosphates.

I almost always have small little patches of cyano - it comes and goes. I don't treat for it and really don't pay attention to it anymore. It balances itself out once your tank matures.

I can back what was mentioned about feeding frozen vs pellets - every time we go out of town and have to auto feed pellets rather than frozen we come home to a minor cyano bloom. It regulates down after a week or 2 of going back to strictly frozen for feedings.

Another thing you can try - a 2 day lights out period, very little feeding and keep the flow as high as you can.

I would also add at least 1 more fish to your tank.

 

[Riseupreefer]

Test your water before using in your tank - be sure that is not your problem with phosphates. It's quite common in our area for even RODI water to contain phosphates.

I almost always have small little patches of cyano - it comes and goes. I don't treat for it and really don't pay attention to it anymore. It balances itself out once your tank matures.

I can back what was mentioned about feeding frozen vs pellets - every time we go out of town and have to auto feed pellets rather than frozen we come home to a minor cyano bloom. It regulates down after a week or 2 of going back to strictly frozen for feedings.

Another thing you can try - a 2 day lights out period, very little feeding and keep the flow as high as you can.

I would also add at least 1 more fish to your tank.

I'll switch back over to frozen, they did seem to enjoy it more anyways. I've tried a 2 and 3 day blackout to no avail.

What would you recommend as far as water goes?

 

[ActiveAngel]

I think you ought to adjust your objective. “How to completely eliminate cyano?” Practically speaking, you can’t. Working with microorganisms is very different than working with macros. But this advice on here is great for helping to control cyano!

It’s good to set a proper goal so you aren’t setting yourself up for failure if/when it disappears and then comes back. Cyano and other pests are a pain! That’s the reason we call them pests. You’re not alone though. And you have some great people here to help! Following some of the advice here will likely reduce it to imperceptible populations.

 

[Riseupreefer]

I just realized this morning when I bought my tank used the couple i purchased it from included a dual media reactor and a pump. If I post pics do you think you all could help me figure out what I need to get it up and running?

 

[90gDreams]

Gonna go against the grain a bit here but I've personally seen 2 tanks permanently cleared of cyano using chemiclean.

As long as you have okay flow and parameters are okay, it'll fix it right up for under $20. I know there is a lot of snake oil and we strive for natural cures in this hobby but that stuff just simply gets the job done.

Being a little biocube water changes alone should be keep things in line for easy stuff like GSP and a couple of fish.

 

[Riseupreefer]

So I've switched to a different brand of salt water, I think the water from my lfs may have been a part of the problem. I tested my tank the other day a s phosphates were really high. Attached is a quick reading of tonight. I turned off the skimmer for a few days as well; however it's back on now. I added a new fish and a few coral and everything seems to be REALLY pleased.

Overall the cyano has eased up but it still exists; not nearly as bad as it was though.