Reef safe peaceful wrasse info

rostato

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I am about to upgrade tanks here in the near future to a 90G, and I am trying to figure out what type of wrasses get along with each other, eat prepared foods, and will not wipe out my pod population or ornametal shrimps like cleaners and peppermints.

I have a 6 line, but I think I will be trading him in after the 46 gets torn down because he eats all of the pods in my tank and I eventually want a madarin goby.

I have been searching around and really cannot find any good straight info on which ones get along and what not.

I know the lined wrasses are mean to other, but thats about all I got. Any info would be great.
 
i think jin can answer all these questions best but wrasses and i mean any wrasse will out compete a mandarin for food that is what they eat in nature but ther will also eat meaty foods .......just make sure u have a fuge and that you tank is mature nd should be fine ....you can do fairy wrasses together or flashers
 
This is what I have learned in my reef safe wrasse endevor. Stick with mostly fairies and flashers. Stay away from lined wrasses if your going to have multiple wrasses. Research specific wrasses for ease of care, acclimation to the aquarium, mortality. Keep the top covered.
 
The wrasse family is the second largest family of fishes behind the gobies. So there are a ton of em out there and it can get a lil confusing as the taxonomy is a lil murky in some areas. I think its easier to do this if we talk about this in terms of genus. There are I think 50 maybe 60 or more genuses of wrasses out there but only 6 of those genuses are really worthy of discussion in terms of reef tanks.

Cirrhilabrus, aka fairy wrasses - These guys are all reef safe and generally can all be housed together. They are some of the prettiest of the wrasses available. Some are more aggressive and territorial than others though and results may vary. They don't really pick at the rocks much as they are primarily strict plankitvores. As such they don't actively hunt the rockwork like a lined wrasse or a mandarin. They will eat flatworms though when they see em or bristleworms or any other morsel that catches their eyes. I love watching them eat bristleworms in particular or any piece of large food. They will take the piece of food and scrape it against a favorite scraping rock. This will break the piece of food up enabling them to swallow the bits. I've seen many a fairy grab a big piece of food and then scurry off to their favorite lil scraping rock. It's hilarious. These guys do flash as well which makes them so much fun to watch. When a fairy flashes you downtown its bad and you don't want to see it... but when a fairy wrasse is flashing you man its like the sun just came out from behind the clouds for the first time in forever. Its beautiful regardless of the species.

Parachelinus, aka flasher wrasses - Closely related to the fairy wrasses in body shape and look, they tend to be like smaller cousins. They all tend to look somewhat similar until they flash at which point you will be startled by their transformation at times. These guys are completely reef safe and are very peaceful in general. Keep in mind that even the most peaceful wrasse may be aggressive towards conspecifics as they are somewhat territorial. They get along with faieries just fine in most tanks and can be housed alongside them. They are kinda skiddish though and need to feel secure to start flashing. Like the faieries, these guys rarely pick at the rocks.

Pseudochelinus, lined wrasses - This includes common wrasses like the 6-line, 4-line, mystery, and secretive wrasses. These guys get more and more territorial with age and eventually they will almost without question kill most other wrasses regardless of the size differential. They have a special hatred of faeries and flasher wrasses it seems though and will typically seek those guys out and end them post haste. I have seen them get along with some other wrasse genuses though but this may be a case by case situation as results seem to vary. In general though its best to keep these guys as the only wrasses in the tank. They are proficient at picking over the rocks for life and do so throughout the day but will also eat from the water column without difficulty.

Halichoeres, no common name - This genus gets a lil hazy as some of them seem to be placed their incorrectly. The most common fish in our trade from this genus though include the H. crysus aka yellow coris wrasse, which is more aptly called the canary wrasse and H. iridius aka the radiant wrasse. There are a bunch of other wrasses in this genus too that are in the hobby such as the x-mas wrasse, hoeven's wrasse, and green "coris" wrasse. Many of the members of this genus are commonly not considered "reef safe". They will not harm corals but may nip at snails or hermits. It's my experience though that the smaller members of this genus are very "reef safe" and will leave hermits/snails alone for the most part. They are pretty good at scavenging the rocks and rival the lined wrasses in terms of being good rock scavengers. These guys are in general unaggressive and can be housed with faeries and flashers without a problem.

Coris - Some wrasses from the Halichoeres genus are mislabeled commonly as Coris wrasses. In actuality coris wrasses are quite different and tend to be fairly aggressive and not reef safe. These guys will mow through snails and hermits like candy and can be uber aggressive with other wrasses and fish at times. Beautiful though, but should only be used in FO tanks.

Bodianus, hogfish - These guys are called hogfish because of the rooting behavior of a few of their members. They also look slightly different than wrasses but definitely are types of wrasses. There are a few that are common in the hobby for reef tanks like the two-spot or the peppermint. Some get quite large though and should be FO. Hogfish are pretty similar to lined wrasses in that they are good at scouring the rocks but like them they are also pretty aggressive once they reach maturity. They may kill other wrasses and should not be housed with them. I'm not sure how they would fare with a lined wrasse though...

There are a bunch of other types of wrasses from various genus that I didn't cover as I think these are the major ones, especially the first 4.
 
Thanks Jin. I actually was going to PM you, but thats about what I was looking for. So basically fairies and flashers will get along, and not kill off invertes or completly destroy a pod population right.

That is good to know because I am more into the fairies and flasher anyway. THANKS.

Any other comments are always welcome. I am definatly going to trade int he 6 line and start looking for some different wrasses to add to the next tank.
 
We just added a
laboutiwrasse.jpg
>Labouti Wrasse </a>to our kitchen tank and it's incredible. very passive and eats like a champ.
 
ares;279034 wrote: what does it mean for a wrasse to "flash"? that like they extending out their fins? sort of like what a rabbitfish does with his spines?

extend fins quickly and change colors
 
Yep they spread their fins out to display their full size and even change color to some degree. There are two types of flashing in general... territorial and nuptial. Territorial flashing does not involve much if any color change but is just a spreading of the fins and some color change... more so in flasher wrasses than faeries. Nutial flashing though is the bees knees. This is where you get the crazy color changes that will blow you away. A pink fish may turn blue and white for example. It's just awesome to watch.
 
rostato;279032 wrote: Thanks Jin. I actually was going to PM you, but thats about what I was looking for. So basically fairies and flashers will get along, and not kill off invertes or completly destroy a pod population right.

That is good to know because I am more into the fairies and flasher anyway. THANKS.

Any other comments are always welcome. I am definatly going to trade int he 6 line and start looking for some different wrasses to add to the next tank.

Yes faeries and flashers in general will get along with each other. Some faerie wrasses though are more aggressive than others. The C. cyanopleura and C. solarnesis come to mind as does the C. condei. Male faeries will sometimes be uber aggressive with other male faeires as well. So its not a perfect world. Although they have flamer names, some faeries and even some flashers are not pushovers :). It takes a lil bit of planning and research and patience to fill your tank up with em so they don't keeeell each other. I've made my mistakes along the way as well :sad: but now its all good.
 
I love Jin comments about fairies flashing....In the small marine fishes books that is available at any LFS store, you will see a synopsis of each fish. I have been researching for my tank and have asked Jin lots of questions. The flame wrasse is pretty pricy but the smaller flashers and faireis are very economical. I have a canary yellow and filamented flasher now and love them. In Jin's tank (he has a ton of them, at last count 21 in his 80 gallon) and mine, they are always out and swimming and peaceful. I love the the wrasses.

Joe
 
What about feeding needs, and sand bed needs? Sand bed depth and grain size come to mind. I know you said that the coris wrasses need a clean sand bed so they don't get infections. What else do I need to be warry of?
 
I have a lime green wrasse. I saw one on live aquaria and they just called it green wrasse. Could this guy be taking out snails? We had a mantis in there for a little while, but seemed to go through more clean up crew than I would have thought possible. Is my wrasse most likely to blame? I hate to buy more snails just to find out.
 
The pastel green wrasse can get kinda big if my memory serves. Up to 7 inches I think which is kinda big and plenty big enough to eat some snails and hermits. I prefer the smaller members of the Halichoeres genus and although the green wrasse is not considered by most "reef safe" I don't think he's the one that is killing snails. From what I've seen they're not snail hunters per se and will not flip em and eat em but may nip at them once overturned. I have a few that are also like that and its not a big deal to me. They are simply being opportunistic... Snails die... sometimes without explanation... that is their lot in life... :)
 
Yeah all my fish will nip and pick at snails that got turned over, or radomly passed.

What about feeding needs, and sand bed needs? Sand bed depth and grain size come to mind. I know you said that the coris wrasses need a clean sand bed so they don't get infections. What else do I need to be warry of?
 
Most wrasses actually don't sleep in the sand. Of the genus listed supra only the Halichoeres and Coris wrasses sleep in the sand. The sand bed should be typically at least 3" deep of rather fine grain sand but the deeper the better.

No special feeding requirements really. They have very active metabolisms in general and are always on the move so they do eat more than most fish. They can really pack it in though at a single feeding though unlike an anthias so they don't really require multiple feedings per day.
 
FutureInterest;279119 wrote: Most wrasses actually don't sleep in the sand. Of the genus listed supra only the Halichoeres and Coris wrasses sleep in the sand. The sand bed should be typically at least 3" deep of rather fine grain sand but the deeper the better.

No special feeding requirements really. They have very active metabolisms in general and are always on the move so they do eat more than most fish. They can really pack it in though at a single feeding though unlike an anthias so they don't really require multiple feedings per day.

Which wrasse of yours would only sleep in white sand?
 
Am I reading correctly that I should keep at least different male species of flashers so that they keep their colors?
 
FutureInterest;279224 wrote: That was the radiant. He's a such a tard. Beautiful though...

Darn guess i wont be getting one in my barebottom lol

edit: after i read that i realized how bad thats sounds lol
 
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