round two... thinking about going another route

[kstyle13]

I unplugged the 10000 k bulbs. And left the actinic lights turned on... I really like this lighting better. So can I run all actinic lights? They T5 ho bulbs. How may to cover the 75 inch tank? I have 3 24 inch now only two are plugged in and it gorgeous. So can I run only actinic lights? Yay or nay????

 

[kstyle13]

Here is the 2 actinic bulbs placed towards the center of the tank.
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[kstyle13]

I definitely need them on the sides as well the tank is sectioned into 3 parts on the top. If I put 2 more on each side is that enough or should I shoot for 3 in each section for a total of 9?

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[1mbrews8]

if u are going t5 on a 75" tank, I would do (6+) 72" t5s...

 

[acroholic]

You can't run only actinics. Not enough intensity. Corals need daylight spectrum.

 

[jdavid]

You can get really good coloration with different T5 combinations, that's the best part of running T5's.

Check out ATI coral +, blue, purple, red, etc

Edit: Hopefully SnowManSnow will drop in and say something about bulb combinations. If I was setting up T5, I'd try to mimic his setup.

 

[fidofence]

Ati blue plus bulbs are very good, actinic not so much

 

[kstyle13]

Ok. I will do that. I will probably just keep the daylight lamps I have in the fixture already. Yes they are t5. I have three t8 bulbs but I'm going to take them out and replace them with actinic. I have 6 of the 10000 k lights. I think I'm going to to stagger them and do like actinic, daylight, actinic, daylight actinic. Do this combination in all three sections of the setup. It's quite a few lights however I'm hoping to get a nice amount of light down to the lower section of my tank.

 

[acroholic]

Actinics bring out additional colors in corals and are a great supplement, but you will drive the photosynthesis engine of the corals with daylight spectrum. Actinics are also a good way to transition from dark to lighta nd vice versa.

I have halides on my 465 gallon reef and supplemental actinics. I have the actinics come on 1/2 hour before the halides come on, and they stay on 1/2 hour after the halides go off.

 

[kstyle13]

Ok cool. Thanks. What the color temp of haliades?

 

[jdavid]

Acroholic;933307 wrote: Actinics bring out additional colors in corals and are a great supplement, but you will drive the photosynthesis engine of the corals with daylight spectrum. Actinics are also a good way to transition from dark to lighta nd vice versa.

I have halides on my 465 gallon reef and supplemental actinics. I have the actinics come on 1/2 hour before the halides come on, and they stay on 1/2 hour after the halides go off.

Dave, I once set up a frag tank with a cheap combo fixture, 14k Phoenix and (4) 24w T5 actinics.

Well, the fixture had legs but the temps went up too much and I never got around to hanging the light so I just ran the actinics. Best coral growth I've ever had. Alien eye chalice from a fingernail clipping to a half dollar with 5 eyes, explosive growth on montipora, dragon soul favia grew three heads, lots of new polyps all in a couple months.

So, I will challenge whether or not actinics can grow corals. And not just from my anecdotal experience but also from hours upon hours of research on targeted ranges of usable photosynthetic radiation for corals.

That's why I run 20k 400w radium now. Corals use a lot more light in the 400-500 nm range than any other. But regardless, I totally agree with you about using a full spectrum bulb in combination with actinics, because there's more than just one peak in the spectrum that corals use.

But do they need</em> it, debatable.

Edit: Lots of typos/mistakes fixed^^... On my phone...

Edit: Here is a great article that nobody ever reads when I post it:

 

[acroholic]

kstyle13;933309 wrote: Ok cool. Thanks. What the color temp of haliades?

Metal halide lights can be bought at almost any kelvin (color) temperature, just like fluorescent. I use Radium 400 watt halides for my daylight. They are a bluish white rendition and are rated at 20,000K (20K for short). I supplement with VHO Super Actinic bulbs, which is another type of fluorescent (older school light tech than newer T5HO fluorescent).

I am not trying to recommend metal halides to you as a primary light source. My 465 is 99% SPS, and I use halides because I get the best coral colors out of that particular technology. I have a 100 gallon mixed LPS/ soft coral reef tank and I use Radion Pro LEDs only on that one.

But if I understand correctly, you are trying to set up a light system using T8 bulbs? To be honest, your long term best interest is best served using either T5 HO lighting or LEDs, unless you want to keep an SPS dominant tank, in which halide would be a viable option.

T5s offer the best variety of bulb and color choices, and LEDs can be set to whatever kelvin temperature you want.

 

[jdavid]

I use metal halide because I have clams, which like Dave's SPS corals are very demanding when it comes to lighting. But I let my 400 watt 20K radium stand alone with no supplemental actinics.

SnowManSnow is the go-to T5 guy if you ask me.

 

[acroholic]

JDavid;933311 wrote: Dave, I once set up a frag tank with a cheap combo fixture, 14k Phoenix and (4) 24w T5 actinics.

Well, the fixture had legs but the temps went up too much and I never got around to hanging the light so I just ran the actinics. Best coral growth I've ever had. Alien eye chalice from a fingernail clipping to a half dollar with 5 eyes, explosive growth on montipora, dragon soul favia grew three heads, lots of new polyps all in a couple months.

So, I will challenge whether or not actinics can grow corals. And not just from my anecdotal experience but also from hours upon hours of research on targeted ranges of usable photosynthetic radiation for corals.

That's why I run 20k 400w radium now. Corals use a lot more light in the 400-500 nm range than any other. But regardless, I totally agree with you about using a full spectrum bulb in combination with actinics, because there's more than just one peak in the spectrum that corals use.

But do they need</em> it, debatable.

Edit: Lots of typos/mistakes fixed^^... On my phone...

Edit: Here is a great article that nobody ever reads when I post it:
http://www.advancedaquarist.com/2012/10/aafeature">http://www.advancedaquarist.com/2012/10/aafeature</a>[/QUOTE]

There are exceptions to anything. Your mentioned corals do not require particularly intense light. Also, a typical frag tank is not deep, so I don't know how close your T5 fixture was from the corals you refer to. Place a coral close enough to an actinic and it may get the PAR it needs, particularly if it doesn't need a lot to start with. I have montis growing in the shade in my 465.

Actinics add PAR, but not much compared to daylight kelvin spectrum light sources.

Additionally, to the OP. Corals under actinics look cool, but even that would get old [B]all the time[/B]. Most reefers try to duplicate some type of daylight spectrum just for the sake of realism, if nothing else. In all the time I have been into reefing, I have never heard or read of anyone that had an all actinc lit reef tank. You could try it. There are certainly many paths to a successful reef. Just be prepared for it to maybe not work, in addition for it to work.

 

[jdavid]

Yeah, but like I said that is just anecdotal evidence anyway. It was a 40 breeder but had a pretty tall frag rack in it.

I realize that it's midnight and that's a long article, but it really supports my argument with more than just anecdotal/empirical evidence. So you should give it a good read when you have time to fully absorb

 

[glxtrix]

When I bought my ATi Power Module (used) it had some bulbs in it that favored the blue spectrum and will give a pretty close look what you have posted.

Blue Plus
Purple Plus
Blue Plus
Blue Plus
Coral Plus
Blue Plus
Purple Plus
Blue Plus

I would only stick to ATi bulbs personally....unless you venture to a more PAR heavy bulb (but they turn more whitish in color) I have a KZ New Gen and GE 6500 in replace of a coral plus and purple plus....but to each their own. Buying a fixture (new or used) that properly fits your tank length wise will give you better bang for your buck. Less bulbs to deal with which means lower cost when it's time to replace, and you have individual reflectors running the length of the tank, which give those bulbs the best results....just something to think about.

Some good T5 info here too -

 

[kstyle13]

Really good article. The readings he listed are pretty much around the same numbers as how I have my system set up. Or at least statistically.

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[ringo®]

JDavid;933321 wrote: I realize that it's midnight and that's a long article, but it really supports my argument with more than just anecdotal/empirical evidence. So you should give it a good read when you have time to fully absorb

I skimmed through it as it was pretty long winded. Don't know if you're reading the comments on it, but seems to be a few smarty pants' disputing his math.

 

[acroholic]

The article was heavily weighted towards LEDs, which is not a big deal, but I would not use LEDs as primary daylight lighting for SPS corals right now, as IME they don't give enough color intensity for SPS corals for my taste. Perhaps in an individually designed LED fixture that addressed the specific corals wavelength requirements, etc., but you are talking about an incredibly small percentage of reefers that have the ability or the interest to do this. 99% of all reefers rely on mass produced commercial LED units, and they are just not there right now for the majority of SPS corals in the coloration department, IMO.

I have about a year each experience using AI, followed by Radions, over SPS corals as the only source of light period, and they just didn't cut it for me for SPS coloration. Never an issue regarding growth under LEDs, but SPS is just more aesthetically pleasing under halides, and IME even better than halide only with supplemental actinic. I used Radium halides only until just recently, and I am glad I added the VHO super actinics. Brought out daylight colors in some SPS I did not even know they had.

The use of LEDs or Halides or T5s or any lighting source is just a matter of weighing the alternatives, IMO. Each technology has good and bad points. If you keep SPS and want the best color, then halides are the way to go, IMO, with their downside being higher electrical consumption and possible heat issues for the tank. Commercial LEDs have higher initial costs, but should have a longer lifespan with no additional money being spent for bulb changes, etc, and have lower electrical costs and less heat generation, but are not as good as coloring up SPS, at least IME. I value the better coloration of halides for SPS right now, so I choose them. But for LPS and soft coral, I choose LEDs.

 

[kstyle13]

Here is a diagram of my reconfiguration. I picked up a few new bulbs this morning. Traded tattoo work for T5 light bulbs. they are 48 inch bulbs where the long lines are and 18 inch bulbs where the short lines are. They didn't have any 24 inch but that would be too long when put next to the 48 inch so it works out. Give me opinions on this. Maybe a few modifications where needed...

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