SPS Death? No idea why!

[FutureInterest]

Brown jelly would typically not effect your sps starting from the bottom and going up. Even it was, you should physically see brown jelly on the SPS. I've seen it before, its not pretty. Not to say that Porter isn't correct, but there are plenty of possibilities here and you should eliminate the most likely ones first...

Anyways, the API tests although not very precise are just fine for course measurements. They won't give you the same level of accuracy but my API has been very close to my Salifert and lamotte test kits. Enough so that I will use the API for regular checkups and the other kits when precision is necessary. So do the price matching thing for the API kit and test that water!

 

[corigan]

FutureInterest;98026 wrote: Anyways, the API tests although not very precise are just fine for course measurements. They won't give you the same level of accuracy but my API has been very close to my Salifert and lamotte test kits. Enough so that I will use the API for regular checkups and the other kits when precision is necessary. So do the price matching thing for the API kit and test that water!

I'm with FutureInterest on this one. I have nice Salifert kits, and I just use them to check my cheap API's every once in awhile. The API's though not as accurate (I.E. my alk is 10.6 according to Salifert), it still shows that it changes colors inbetween the 10 and 11 drop which is good enough for me.

Matt

 

[blind1993]

no help i can give but i hope they make it through.

 

[izib]

Just to throw something in regarding the temp changes, how much fluctuation would it take in a 24 hour period?

 

[kzoo]

I still dont understand how it is that people expect to keep corals if they dont test there alk and cal , and if you want to keep sps you need to test for magnesium. Even lps and softies need the water to be some what close to natural levels. Hard corals hate major changes and if your alk is going up and down they will all RT and die.

 

[dannybradley]

Stroid, I'll grab my test kit from the shop tomorrow. I just moved around the corner from you last weekend and should have the time to run a full battery tomorrow. I'll pm you my cell number.

 

[stroid]

wow that would be cool Danny not sure that I can meet tomorrow we are having alot of people come over but maybe Wed? but I did manage to get most things tested. Kzoo im still new to SPS still learning.
Salinity 1.0205 ----apparantly my refractometer is off (ordering a hydrometer)
ph 8.1-2 ----I will buff
Kh 6---this is probably the problem
NO3 0---As expected
didnt test for nitrites but I assume the are fine and they were out of Calcium test kits at the store so I couldnt test for that but I am assuming it is low and got some seachem calcium booster but I want to test first before I actually dose.

 

[dough]

Red bugs only affect certain SPS corals and usually acros. I've never seen them on Monti or Millies. I’ve only seen a loss of color associated with Red Bugs, that is you catch them early enough.

I too changed lamps earlier this year, did not acclimate the tank to the new lamps and lost 6 sps. They did not bleach like that over night.

Did the frogspawn go first of the SPS? How long have you had the SPS? I would go ahead and deadhead the frogspawn ASAP.

Causes of brown jelly range for bacteria infections to a protozoan. Ummm, according to Sprung your frogspawn is a good candidate for such an issue. But also affect Acroporas! He suggests a freshwater dip for a minute, which will kill the protozoan. If the jelly sloughs off then if affect soft corals but he says nothing about SPS.

I'm not sure about the temp swings being an issue, unless you've had some pretty wide changes and quickly. I've changed my temps a few degrees if my during water changes.

I would suggest getting the frogspawn out, treat it, do a water change tonight and one tomorrow. Also test the water. It could be something else. But you may never know.

My pH is in that range. What kind of refractometer are you using? Kh is a little low but IMHO not enough to cause all this. Whats your Calcuim levels. If your Kh is low I bet your calcium is probably off as well. You may need Mag. What's your temp?

 

[stroid]

temp is constant 80 possible rare fluctuation to 81 if its a hot day rarely an issue. They were out of calcuim test kits so i couldnt test for that but I am assuming it is low as well. So I need to do a FW dip on the frogspawn for 1min? I was going to do a 7g water change tonight I just now removed all the dead heads of the frogspawn.

 

[dough]

Temp is a oaky as mine is usually 78-80.

If you've removed the heads already and did not do a iodine or FW dip, I would watch it everything carefully. It may not hurt to go ahead and do a FW dip. Just make sure the temp is as close to your tanks as possible. If not be prepared to do a dip if things continue south.

Did you remove the heads in the tank or outside?

Go ahead and do a water change and start mixing water for tomorrow's change or at least have some mixing just in case.

 

[stroid]

I did a FW dip and alot of the brown jelly came of and i lightly brushed some of it of with a toothbrush. During the FW the tentacles got sucked in and seems as if they released there defense stingers (or whatever they are called). Basically teh Frogspawn looks like crap right now. I hope I did it right it would totaly suck to loose this whole colony. I am waiting for the water to get to the right temp to do the water change. Thanks for helping everyone

 

[stroid]

Alright FW dip is done, water change is done, waiting is just beginning. Here to hoping it goes well. Thanks Ziad

 

[jmaneyapanda]

Stroid;98121 wrote: wow that would be cool Danny not sure that I can meet tomorrow we are having alot of people come over but maybe Wed? but I did manage to get most things tested. Kzoo im still new to SPS still learning.
Salinity 1.0205 ----apparantly my refractometer is off (ordering a hydrometer)
ph 8.1-2 ----I will buff
Kh 6---this is probably the problem
NO3 0---As expected
didnt test for nitrites but I assume the are fine and they were out of Calcium test kits at the store so I couldnt test for that but I am assuming it is low and got some seachem calcium booster but I want to test first before I actually dose.

Your salinity is TOO LOW for corals. It needs to be AT LEAST 1.023, and preferably towrads 1.025-1.026. Dont waste your mony of a hydrometer, stick with the refractometer, and just calibrate it. It is FAR most consistant than any hydrometer.

 

[burdundi]

jmaneyapanda;98190 wrote: Your salinity is TOO LOW for corals. It needs to be AT LEAST 1.023, and preferably towrads 1.025-1.026. Dont waste your mony of a hydrometer, stick with the refractometer, and just calibrate it. It is FAR most consistant than any hydrometer.

I couldn't agree more! Just recalibrate the refractometer.

 

[stroid]

burdundi;98200 wrote: I couldn't agree more! Just recalibrate the refractometer.

Thanks Panda and Burundi....I know it can be recalibrated but what is the best way to recalibrate the hydrometer? I know my salinity is down and I am surprised that it is. Whats the best way to raise Salinity...just more water changes?

 

[wbholwell]

Stroid;98203 wrote: Thanks Panda and Burundi....I know it can be recalibrated but what is the best way to recalibrate the hydrometer? I know my salinity is down and I am surprised that it is. Whats the best way to raise Salinity...just more water changes?

Do you mean "recalibrate the refractometer?" Hydrometers cannot be calibrated, and they typically aren't precise nor accurate to begin with.

The best way to raise salinity, IMO, is to perform water changes using water with a higher salinity. Or, if you've recently done a water change, you could top off using salt water. Measure the salinity frequently, though.

 

[stroid]

wbholwell;98211 wrote: Do you mean "recalibrate the refractometer?" Hydrometers cannot be calibrated, and they typically aren't precise nor accurate to begin with.

The best way to raise salinity, IMO, is to perform water changes using water with a higher salinity. Or, if you've recently done a water change, you could top off using salt water. Measure the salinity frequently, though.

lol yes I meant recalibrate the hydrometer....this is the first I hear that refractometers are that innaccurate. So why do people use them over a regular swingarm.

 

[stroid]

Thanks for posting that Harold my salinity being so low is definitly part of the problem. When I got the Frogspawn from you it was in really great condition and porbably the switch to my lower Salinity caused part of this. Today after the water change my tank looks alot better and the frogspawn looks alot better. Things are looking up!

 

[cgill311]

Stroid;98213 wrote: lol yes I meant recalibrate the hydrometer....this is the first I hear that refractometers are that innaccurate. So why do people use them over a regular swingarm.

Refractometers are VERY accurate when calibrated properly. There are no moving parts to wear out and are based on the refraction of light through the liquid samples. Just recalibrate these with fresh RODI water to 1.00. It's simple and won't take you longer than a minute to do.

Hydrometers are notoriously inaccurate. Their moving parts wear out or jam leading to incorrect readings. I'd avoid these like the plague.

 

[burdundi]

The best way to recalibrate the refractometer is to use a recalibration solution, but in the mean time, just use RO water and turn the little screw so that this is 0.

Raise the salinity slowly. If I ever have a problem, I just top off with salt water and measure the salinity frequently.

-Andy