If a reactor is a constant slow supply, that doesn't have a controller turning it on and off on a timer or with ph then you wouldn't get a bump. A doser, that's not constantly dripping, is still dosing. And you get the step back and step up.
What are your tactics for...
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If a reactor is a constant slow supply, that doesn't have a controller turning it on and off on a timer or with ph then you wouldn't get a bump. A doser, that's not constantly dripping, is still dosing. And you get the step back and step up.
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lots of people do this to maintain a steady PH. Because of the use of infusing CO2 into the water with a reactor the PH can drop. Lots counter this by adding a kalk reactor to the system which will raise the PH with each dose.
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a reactor is controlled by a controller, but it is controlled by the PH inside the reactor. Its just a factor you take into account when dialing things in. Ideally yes, you do want it on on the time, but the ph in the reactor can't drop too low or your media will turn to mush
Oh. It looked like you were saying you use a CA reactor and kalkwasser. I thought kalk was normally an abbreviation for kalkwasser. You just mean your reactor only runs when the lights are off?
I am going to try to stabilize my ph by leaving more algae on my ATS rather than harvesting it so frequently.
I am going to try to stabilize my ph by leaving more algae on my ATS rather than harvesting it so frequently.
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Wow, I'm having issues with reading comprehension today.
I do not dose 2 part
I DO dose Kalkwasser during the overnight hours to limit to pH drop when the main lighting is off.
I DO run a CA reactor to maintain stable CA and Alk over days.
I watch the stability of alk and CA day by day when setting up the CA reactor but only week by week once set up. I am not concerned with hour by hour fluctuations of CA and Alk but feel the constant addition CA and Alk by the CA reactor results in stable quantities.
I do not dose 2 part
I DO dose Kalkwasser during the overnight hours to limit to pH drop when the main lighting is off.
I DO run a CA reactor to maintain stable CA and Alk over days.
I watch the stability of alk and CA day by day when setting up the CA reactor but only week by week once set up. I am not concerned with hour by hour fluctuations of CA and Alk but feel the constant addition CA and Alk by the CA reactor results in stable quantities.
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There are no hobby viable ways to perpetually measure Alk or CA so short of testing every 5 minutes and adjusting your additives accordingly there is no way to 1) know if these parameter never fluctuate minute by minute and therefore 2) you have no idea how much to dose to keep it constant.
So, I measure those weekly and adjust my CA reactor to maintain the levels of CA and Alk in the system.
No dialing in of the Kalk reactor needed. All my tipoff water comes through it. I adjust the CA reactor to maintain target CA and Alk levels
So, I measure those weekly and adjust my CA reactor to maintain the levels of CA and Alk in the system.
No dialing in of the Kalk reactor needed. All my tipoff water comes through it. I adjust the CA reactor to maintain target CA and Alk levels
I'm not saying you should be doing something that you're not doing. I'm just asking - just like Snow I guess - I just want the knowledge. Your and everyone else's experience and point of view, so I can incorporate that with everything else I've read, my own experience and make my own decisions.
Does a kalk reactor's potency depend on how much kalk you have in it?
Does a kalk reactor's potency depend on how much kalk you have in it?
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No. The CA and Alk output of a properly maintained (filled) kalk reactor is constant. See below for more information.
When using Kalk, you want to dose "Kalk saturated solution". Only so much kalk powder (lime) will dissolve into a given volume of water. When no more of the powder can dissolve, the solution is said to be saturated. I believe about 2 teaspoons of kalk powder will dissolve in a gallon of water to yield a saturated solution.
When using a reactor, you fill it with way too much kalk powder for the volume in the reactor. Lets say my reactor holds 2 gallons of water. I fill mine with 2 cups of powder (enough to saturate 48 gallons of water). That much powder will never dissolve into 2 gallons of water so the powder that can't dissolve, settles to the bottom of the reactor. My topoff pumps pure RODI water into the bottom of the reactor (where the settled powder sits) which pushes saturated water out a tube in the top of the reactor into my sump. Periodically a circulation pump runs to mix the water in the reactor with the settled kalk powder ensuring all the water in the reactor stays saturated.
As time progresses and more and more water is pumped through the reactor, the kalk powder gets used up. At this time, there isn't enough kalk powder to yield a saturated solution and the water output of the kalk reactor is less than saturated. You will notice that the pH potential of the water is not nearly as strong as when the water is saturated. This is your indication to add more kalk powder to the reactor. You can also visually see that the kalk powder is low.
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This can be a double edged sword. In my experience (not scientific by no means) keeping water pristine and parameters exactly spot on causes an environment that can become too perfect. What I mean is a coral can thrive in perfect conditions forever. But let's say we move said coral whereas you might have a 1 degree swing day to day. This could cause catastrophic events to occur if said coral spent last 5 years in perfect conditions. My philosophy is keep it right but don't chase too many numbers. Nitrates and phosphates can reach some levels detectable (not sky high but you catch what I mean) maintain Alk whereas it's easy to maintain with dosing and water changes. And the most important thing I can tell someone is keep your hands out of the tank. Ever notice how a skimmer instantly detects the oils from your hands? Imagine what the coral and fish think.
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That's something I haven't thought of. Do you use gloves when you need to reach in the tank?
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When I can find them
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Beating a dead horse, here. Dahn, I think that's my math you're quoting from a month or two ago (and that's my size tank as well). The end point of it basically is, we lose either way. 
If you're changing out water to try to keep a paramter up in the desire range, you have to do a 100% change or it just depletes more slowly at 10-20% weekly water change-out. But the flip side is also true... if you're seeking to reduce something undesirable effectively (say, nitrate from 40 to 20ppm) then once you go above a 40-50% WC to lower the thing you want meaningfully lowered you're then spiking everything else. The down side of water is that the bad stuff won't obligingly cram itself into that specific volume of water you're removing.
1st hand example? Since switching to a salt that mixes up to 7.5 - 8 dKh, dosing mag/carbonate/calcium as needed and just relying on water changes to cut down the surface oily film & remove built-up detrius I've had no further issues keeping my blastomussa collection happy, and have started to stock up on euphylias again. Previously everything would go to hell about once every 3-7 weeks. Part of that's rolling up the sleeves and TESTING on a more regular basis, part's keeping a reasonable dosing schedule in response, and part of that's being able to rely on larger water changes to fix issues without inducing new ones. In my case, a 40% change of Reef Crystals (mixing at 12-14dKh @1.025sg) definitely wasn't doing my corals any favors despite my good intentions.
BS. BrandonMason's "hands out of the tank" is another great one. I use 12" exam gloves & lower the water level in the tank to suit when working on something - everything stays MUCH happier when whatever oils, residue and such arent being allowed in. Use powder-free gloves, though!
If you're changing out water to try to keep a paramter up in the desire range, you have to do a 100% change or it just depletes more slowly at 10-20% weekly water change-out. But the flip side is also true... if you're seeking to reduce something undesirable effectively (say, nitrate from 40 to 20ppm) then once you go above a 40-50% WC to lower the thing you want meaningfully lowered you're then spiking everything else. The down side of water is that the bad stuff won't obligingly cram itself into that specific volume of water you're removing.
1st hand example? Since switching to a salt that mixes up to 7.5 - 8 dKh, dosing mag/carbonate/calcium as needed and just relying on water changes to cut down the surface oily film & remove built-up detrius I've had no further issues keeping my blastomussa collection happy, and have started to stock up on euphylias again. Previously everything would go to hell about once every 3-7 weeks. Part of that's rolling up the sleeves and TESTING on a more regular basis, part's keeping a reasonable dosing schedule in response, and part of that's being able to rely on larger water changes to fix issues without inducing new ones. In my case, a 40% change of Reef Crystals (mixing at 12-14dKh @1.025sg) definitely wasn't doing my corals any favors despite my good intentions.
BS. BrandonMason's "hands out of the tank" is another great one. I use 12" exam gloves & lower the water level in the tank to suit when working on something - everything stays MUCH happier when whatever oils, residue and such arent being allowed in. Use powder-free gloves, though!
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50 gallon total water , 25 gallon a week water change. I don't dose anything except continous drip of kalk. Not sure what my parameters are since I don't test but everything is growing like crazy.
BrandonMason;1096053 wrote: When I can find them
Found these on Amazon.
https://www.amazon.com/Disposable-Obsterical-Artifical-Insemination-Milligram/dp/B000HHQ7IU/ref=sr_1_3?rps=1&ie=UTF8&qid=1473261256&sr=8-3&keywords=obstetrical+gloves&refinements=p_85%3A2470955011">https://www.amazon.com/Disposable-Obsterical-Artifical-Insemination-Milligram/dp/B000HHQ7IU/ref=sr_1_3?rps=1&ie=UTF8&qid=1473261256&sr=8-3&keywords=obstetrical+gloves&refinements=p_85%3A2470955011</a>
Easy to keep in the fish room and there when you need them. Probably have many other uses beyond their intended application... :unsure:
I wasn't saying specifically that matching your alkalinity was wrong, just that it wouldn't cause SPIKES with 10% water changes. Blip, maybe. 40%-50% is obviously a lot different. And apparently, Brandon thinks those inconsistencies may condition corals to just live with inconsistencies.
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Usually if you have a routine using the same practices I find that the ph rarely will swing in any negative way.
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I do not.
