what the hell!!! help fast!!!!!!!!

Ok well moto completely disregard everything I've said......apparently I've never had a fish with a internal parasite(White stringy poo) before....and helped it recover

And I'm not telling him to go buy a bunch of ****.....I told him to QT the fish FIRST before he treats with ANYTHING!........if the fish does have a parasite and he leaves the fish in the tank if will simply kill the fish and have an adverse effect on the other
inhabitants.....maybe you should ready post more thoroughly....I also said that if he does use copper or Formaline....to do a lower does than what is on the bottle.....IN THE QT TANK ONLY.....if he does nothing and leaves the fish on the main tank then he will die slowly......the only chance he has is to QT the fish...
 
So your telling him to just leave him in the main tank and maybe he will get over this...........pretty sure i still said to mix some fresh water with some salt water resulting in lower salinity.....Not a complete hyposalinity dip.......if you read I said after the treatment in the QT was finished when he is ready to introduce the fish back into the main tank...I know what a hypo salinity dip is BTW......1.010 or so.....average reef SG is or should be around 1.023-1.026.....I simply said to give him a dip upon acclimation.....but I guess ya didn't catch that part.....
 
Needs the get the ammonia on his QT tank to 0.....first......can't QT a fish with ammonia.....then QT the clown...if it is indeed a parasite then the fish will be ok till ammonia is gone from QT.....he can't rehabilitate the clown in the main tank without affecting everything....
 
Obviously get your ammonia down in the QT, as this will do the fish in rapidly in it's condition.

Metronidazole would be my treatment recommendation. It is useful against both parasites and some bacteria.

As someone mentioned, if you are losing fish you may well have a system wide issue, and will need to address that if so.

That's my $0.02. Good luck.
 
If he is able to determine the type of problem, that potentially makes it easier. In my experience, bacteria are often the result of poor houskeeping. Parasites may be there as long as the fish are, unless you treat them.

Bacteria-clean the tank thoroughly, rinsing the sand and rocks with fresh salt water. This may also cause a mini-cycle.

Parasites- remove fish to QT (after ammonia is gone), treat them with the metronidazole. While they are in QT, consider doing the bacteria treatment/clean-up also. It's a great opportunity.

I believe that he mentioned this tank has been set up when he bought it, and he has had it ~2 months. He may have inherited an existing problem, or it was stimulated due to the sand and/or rock being disturbed. Cleaning a tank is a great opportunity to eliminate a lot of issues, including disease, nitrate, low O2, low Redox potential, etc.
 
i have lots of coral in my main tank wat should i do with it while i clean the tank also i have a 36watt coralife uv ste.. that is not being used should i hook it up?
 
also what about doing this
a>
 
ichthyoid;487370 wrote: Obviously get your ammonia down in the QT, as this will do the fish in rapidly in it's condition.

Metronidazole would be my treatment recommendation. It is useful against both parasites and some bacteria.

As someone mentioned, if you are losing fish you may well have a system wide issue, and will need to address that if so.

That's my $0.02. Good luck.
Click to expand...

would it cure brookynella or other internal parasites where can i get it?
 
One of the problems could be the cow fish dying. They release toxins when they die.. Maybe some are still in the tank.

Also there is a regal, a panther grouper, and at least two clown fish all in a 33g! Maybe it's overcrowded. This is just MY oppionion, but I wouldnt put even JUST a regal in a 33, or a panter grouper in the 33, much less both AND other fish. And he mentioned earlier in another post that he feeds or at least was feeding the panther grouper live goldfish. If they are in there for very long they have a big impact on the bioload too. I'd be curious to know what the levels are like in the tank with that many fish..
 
Place corals in a temp container. You may buy a wide plastic box at Wal-Mart, etc., put corals in it. Place your light over that if it will take more than a few hours. Get some 5 gallon buckets (Home Depot) for rinsing sand, coral, etc. You can use a clean new garbage can to hold live rock, if needed/if you have a lot. It's especially important to rinse the sand well to allow detritus (crap, food etc.) to float away in the rinse water.

UV is most effective at preventing sickness ( external parasites), not at curing it. There are a lot of studies showing this. You may be better off setting up a QT tank with the UV. When you buy a fish, put them in the QT for 3 weeks with UV on. They will be free of external parasites after. White stringy poo, does usually means intestinal parasites.
 
llewella;487382 wrote: Maybe it's overcrowded.
*snip*
If they are in there for very long they have a big impact on the bioload too. I'd be curious to know what the levels are like in the tank with that many fish..
Click to expand...

Understatement of the year...
It would take a passionate devotion to water changes to keep parameters in check with that bioload in a 33 (unless the fish are babies).
Either way it's like making a person spend their whole day in a 1/2 bath rather than a good sized room.
 
llewella;487382 wrote: One of the problems could be the cow fish dying. They release toxins when they die.. Maybe some are still in the tank.

Also there is a regal, a panther grouper, and at least two clown fish all in a 33g! Maybe it's overcrowded. This is just MY oppionion, but I wouldnt put even JUST a regal in a 33, or a panter grouper in the 33, much less both AND other fish. And he mentioned earlier in another post that he feeds or at least was feeding the panther grouper live goldfish. If they are in there for very long they have a big impact on the bioload too. I'd be curious to know what the levels are like in the tank with that many fish..
Click to expand...

Yep, all good points.

I still believe his original issue/question about the clown is that it has intestinal parasites (the white stringy poo + lethargic). I assume all else is happy (?). The panther alone can grow to ~2 feet! This is definitely too many 'big' fish longer term.
 
thanks for the info on the corals i will be cleaning it should i dispose of all of the water in the 33 and add all new water? do i rinse the sand with fresh water? will it kill the good bacteria??


the fish are more than comfortable right now they are all small grouper ate gold fish instantly he no longer is fed that he eats frozen silver sides now all water conditions are perfect no nitrite or ammonia nitrate is 5 or less

cow fish problem was already delt with
 
ichthyoid;487388 wrote: Yep, all good points.

I still believe his original issue/question about the clown is that it has intestinal parasites (the white stringy poo + lethargic). I assume all else is happy (?). The panther alone can grow to ~2 feet! This is definitely too many 'big' fish longer term.
Click to expand...

yep everyone else is happy watever this is has killed 3 clown fish setting up a 210 the grouper will be happy
 
Use old seawater for rinsing and replace with new seawater. You answered your own question about freshwater, ie-don't use it unless you want to start from scratch. Your parameters look like everything has cycled, makes sense as it was previously set up.

You might stir some sand and see if a lot of 'guk' comes out. This will let you know if rinsing is needed.
 
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