What type algae is this?.

mikesmith34

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What is this? It is starting to get bad, at first I thought it was diatom. Gets worse when the lights come on. I have a GFO reactor coming tomorrow. All water test last night are good. I don't know what my phosphates are , test will be here tomorrow as well. Looks like crap and making me worry. Not sure what to do.
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I did not attach both pictures by mistake. This is whats on my sand bed

Edit:
heathlindner25;898181 wrote: I'm not sure but that blue clove polyp should cover it up pretty quickly....

A month ago that rock was a solid carpet of blue polyps. They are disappearing ????
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If you can increase the flow in those areas it will help. Of course with softies and LPS corals, you can't increase the flow too much.
 
That's what I'm wondering. It does just"disappear" when you disturb it on the sand bed. I'm new to the hobby. I've done a lot of reading on the subject. Every pic I look at the look the same
 
Mikesmith34;898225 wrote: That's what I'm wondering. It does just"disappear" when you disturb it on the sand bed. I'm new to the hobby. I've done a lot of reading on the subject. Every pic I look at the look the same

Cyano only appears in dead areas where there is little to no water movement. If you eliminate dead spots, and assuming your phosphates are in check, then the cyano will not plague you much longer.

By the way, if you are using GFO and new to it, I highly suggest you read all the instructions and are careful with it. If you want a safer alternative, use Seachem Phosguard. Brightwell also makes a resin that is rechargeable and safer than GFO.
 
The dead spots do seem to be the worst. I've got 2 1400's on a wave maker. I really would like a couple more small ones. Been running phosgaurd in the sock. I believe 1/2 the problem was over feeding. I found out my teens were giving them a flake snack after school. No more snacks matter of fact I did not even feed them today.

The tank was bought from LFS up and running. He said it was 5 yrs old ??? They broke it down and installed it the same day. I've made the mistake of not testing for phosphates and I believe they are getting away from me. My skimmer suuuuxxxxx( coralife) purchased a super reef oct 1000sss today so I should have it this week.
 
Phosguard in a sock is better than nothing when you have phosphate issues, but Phosguard in a reactor is much more efficient. By the way, which phosphate test kit did you purchase?

I would suggest adding a few smaller powerheads or try to run both 1400 at the same time without the wavemaker to see if they will clear up the cyano.
 
If it disturbs quickly and easily it is probably cyanobacteria siphon it out with a piece or air hose or something similar in size , if it is cyano it will suck up quickly , and once its goen I would re position some flow like the other posts said , it can't settle in a current , I know that stuff is a drag I had a little also recently.
I just uped my water changes and treated with a med called ultralife reef products red slime stain remover . I followed directions and it was goen in 48 hours just as the product said it should.
Mine wasn't as heavy as yours though .
Good luck with eradicateing it.
I'm glad you decide to order those test , it will be helpful no doubt
 
In my humble opinion red slime removers are like a Band-Aid, you have to fix the root problem or else the cyano comes back. In this case excess nutrients and water flow.

With that being said, there is one constant in this hobby: There is 10 different ways to do the same thing and usually you can find examples of how each worked spectacularly. So my advice is to research a method and try it out. :)
 
isn't cyano purple/red? I had it, and it didn't look like that. looks like a diatom bloom to me.
 
tim8111;898240 wrote: Phosguard in a sock is better than nothing when you have phosphate issues, but Phosguard in a reactor is much more efficient. By the way, which phosphate test kit did you purchase?

I would suggest adding a few smaller powerheads or try to run both 1400 at the same time without the wavemaker to see if they will clear up the cyano.

You know now that you say that, the bloom came out after I hooked up the wave maker. Only one head is on at a time....dam

I ordered the BRS GFO reactor. Everyone seems to say go gfo???? The test is a ELOS
 
Looks like a large amount of diatoms. Commons in new tanks and even older tanks that are disturbed aka moved. Some die off, even slight amounts, are present. You can even get old pockets/patches of "crud" or detritus stirred up from in between or under rocks. The old sand contains detritus also and can release phosphates and other goodies into the water. Vacuuming old sand can even release more for a time. Thus you can get phoshate/nitrate/and other organic spikes for a while. Plus you have the previous bioload adding nutrients at the same time due to the tank starting off pretty well stocked. I tend to think of a moved tank as closer to a new tank then a mature tank although it will settle faster than a new one.

Just stay on top of water changes and test. A phosphate reactor is a good step, so is carbon. A good choice for you maybe seachem SeaGel. Has phosphate removers plus carbon and can be gentler than aggressive use of GFO. It is a favorite of mine. Water changes and time for maturation will go a long way. Sand stirring CUC will also help with the diatoms and nutrients within the sand.
 
It always comes on heavy after I vacum my sand. One thing I think is going to help is a good quality reef octopus skimmer. Mine is not cutting the mustard and pulling very little skim mate.

I also ordered a ATO which I think will help for more consistency. The modes y'all have recommended are reef safe?? You just add them to the tank???
 
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