Cannot figure out what’s wrong

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NanCrab

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Attached are several months worth of water testing. All my SPS corals have died or are suffering from slow or rapid tissue necrosis. All my monti’s are dead. My softies are doing ok but my zoas are mostly closed. We had a terrible outbreak of red cyano that we were trying to treat conservatively but to no avail. Finally used ChemiClean as recommended and did the 20% water change last night. The parameters for March 1 are BEFORE the water change and when I get home from my doctor’s appointment this morning I will do a post water change set. The salinity isn’t listed but it is slightly low at 1.023. Calibrated refractometer and got identical results. Not sure why it’s so low as our mixed water is at exactly 1.025 and again will recheck in just a bit. My beautiful Duncan is looking unhappy now and my leather is closed. I should add that we have been using and are continuing to use the KZ cyano clean, coral snow and coral aminos. A couple of my hammers are still closed up but not melting but the big one has been doing poorly for months now and is pretty pale at this point. I recently changed over my lighting from LED’s to T5’s and that transition didn’t go as well as I had hoped but these problems started long before any lighting changes.
Any ideas would be much appreciated because I’m stumped and really not sure what else to do at this point. 3 months ago everything was gorgeous and growing explosively000ABA97-7571-494B-9398-F608A7B3F70A.png
 
To me this screams low nutrients. What are you phosphate and nitrate levels?

Nevermind I see the attachment now
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How old is this tank? Start with liverock or dry rock?

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My go to for cyano outbreak that’s not a chemical additive. See images.

Cyano coats everything and made my tank unhappy for the short time I fought with it. I’m no expert on parameters, but you did have a low swing in alkalinity that might have exasperated another issue.

Have you thought about bacteria additives like Dr Tims recommended in image? Organic phosphates dissolved in the water arent measured by your tester, but do have an affect on the system. Had I not seen your phosphate results, I would have suggested that as the cause. Bacteria can feed on a reduce that phosphate you can’t strip with GFO reactor.
 

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I disagree. I know High Nutrients are still the 'hot item'... but i've ran tanks for years and years with nitrates below 0.25ppm and phophates below 0.05ppm. All tanks were mixed reefs including several acro and LPS colonies, and I never had any such issue. Additionally, I have yet to see a tank issue that was solved by increasing nutrients that ALSO didn't have a temperature, salinity, chemical, or other issue. It's quite common for me to see "my corals are dying because my nutrients are low... oh, and also my temperature is 91 degrees because my thermometer was broken." Lol. I know my opinion is in the minority, and I am open to new evidence. But here is what I see in your parameters.

Salinity (Very High importance): 1.023 is slightly outside of safe zone. But outside the safe zone is still 'outside'. So that is certainly a strong contributing factor.

Temp (Very High Imp.): Maybe no issue here. What were you using to get those measurements? Did you check it against a glass thermometer? (Not a lot of glass thermometers give decimals. Lol). This is a potential strong contributing factor.

Alk (High Imp.), it seems like you’re all over the place. Unstable parameters. It also seems like you went from 8.5 to 6.6 over 3 days, then back up to 7.1 dkH over 1 day. Either of these two occurrences has the possibility to wipe out most of your corals. Even if we ignore the middle 6.6 dkH as a false reading, going from 8.5 to 7.1 over 4 days still has the potential to kill corals. Too much change too quickly. Additional strong contributing factor.

pH (High Imp, but dont chase pH. it is expected to fluctuate hourly): No issue. Looks good.
Calcium (Moderate Imp. above safe limits): No issue. Looks good.
Mag (Moderate Imp): No issue. Looks good.
Nutrients (Moderate Imp. below safe limits, strong relationship with N): No issue. Looks good.

Chemiclean: This stuff works well, but is really stressful on corals. Usually they wont die from it, but it does cause stress... in addition to reducing oxygen levels. Additional strong contributing factor.

STN and RTN: These are contagious, in my limited experience with them. They spread from one colony to the next, no matter what. The ONLY solution that I have seen is complete removal. I recommend taking out the colonies, and drawing an imaginary line at least 1" from infected tissue. Everything within 1", consider it already infected. Move it to a different system if you want... but it will likely all die. But if you have branches >1" away, cut those frags, however tiny they may be. Those may be salvagable if the rest of the tank is completely clean. Additional strong contributing factor.

Corals are "Pale"... this sounds like too intense lighting and/or heat. Double check that thermometer, as previously mentioned. Otherwise, maybe your intensity increased either too much or too quickly when you switched to T5s. Tone down the lights. I've seen cornbred acros survive (but not thrive) for months in <50 PAR. Corals are more likely to die from too much light than too little. So err on the side of caution, decrease light, and build it up over time until you are happy. Additional strong contributing factor.

SUMMARY:
I see 5 Strong contributing factors, 1 potentially strong contributing factor, and 0 moderate contributing factors... in my experience. Like most things in life... disasters often dont happen because of 1 singular issue, but because of several factors coinciding. It appears the same here. Dont do too much, too quickly. Make very slow, methodical improvements, and log everything. I also recommend logging them consistently so that its a little easier to read and see changes/trends/patterns. Good luck!
 
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I was going to type something but it won't be anywhere as clear, thorough, or well written as what @ActiveAngel did.

SPS really like consistency. I really think a doser is a good idea for a SPS tank. You can pick a dKh that works for and and maintain that value. Bouncing up and down is definitely no good.
 
My go to for cyano outbreak that’s not a chemical additive. See images.

Cyano coats everything and made my tank unhappy for the short time I fought with it. I’m no expert on parameters, but you did have a low swing in alkalinity that might have exasperated another issue.

Have you thought about bacteria additives like Dr Tims recommended in image? Organic phosphates dissolved in the water arent measured by your tester, but do have an affect on the system. Had I not seen your phosphate results, I would have suggested that as the cause. Bacteria can feed on a reduce that phosphate you can’t strip with GFO reactor.
I haven’t added anything. I use ATI 2 part but only 2ml of each on opposite hours
 
One year now and started with dry rock. Inverts do great. And fish are good.
Speaking from my experience, I've had issues with SPS in my dryrock(sterile) started tank up to the year and a half mark. They still aren't great but alive. I had the same issues of stn. I literally tried everything(very slowly of course). But the only thing that has helped me is maintaining detectable nitrate and phosphate levels and time. Adding different types of bacteria has helped as well.

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I also see that your alkalinity is jumping around, & such big swings aren’t good. That alone will piss off the corals, if not worse.

So my question is: what is changing to cause such swings?

This is what I would do first-
Have you validated your measurements against other ‘known’ measurement sources? Take water samples to your LFS & make sure yours are correct.
 
Since lighting is coming into question here can you tell me what T5 fixture you're using? Brand of fixture, number of bulbs, length?
 
I agree with the others - stability. Several parameters are all over the place - alk, ph, ca - and those bouncing around make me question the stability of your salinity as well. Make sure you are testing at about the same time of day as well - I'm surprised at how much some parameters change throughout the day.

I've been having much better luck with alk closer to natural levels and both of my tanks are doing better at 75 degrees compared to the 78 - 79 they run during the summer.
 
I also see that your alkalinity is jumping around, & such big swings aren’t good. That alone will piss off the corals, if not worse.

So my question is: what is changing to cause such swings?

This is what I would do first-
Have you validated your measurements against other ‘known’ measurement sources? Take water samples to your LFS & make sure yours are correct.
What makes the alkalinity unstable? I don’t understand. I’m not just dumping stuff in there all the time.
 
Also my temp stays fairly stable and I have 3 temp probes plus a glass thermometer. 77.6 - 78.2
IMO - lower it.

I've been scuba diving on reefs with water in the high 60's / very low 70's - nothing in the ocean needs water that warm.

When you are on the fringes of "normal"- which you are on several things - it doesn't take much of anything to have a negative affect. Shoot for the center of natural ranges with everything when possible. PH, Alk, CA, Temp, Salinity - center of natural and as stable as possible.

I also think that higher temps make things happen faster - just like with any land animals. When something bad is happening - you want it to happen slow. That is more likely to happen in cooler temp.
 
Since lighting is coming into question here can you tell me what T5 fixture you're using? Brand of fixture, number of bulbs, length?
LET Lighting T5 HO kit from BRS. 4 bulbs, 60” on 72” tank spread out front to back over 16” with a moonlight LED that comes on at 0600 and goes off at 2355. Blues (T5) go on at 8am now and off at 9pm and coral plus go on at 9 am and off at 7pm. They have more of a full spectrum so I don’t keep them on as long. I’ve worked up to that schedule over the past few weeks. I have been running supplemental T5 lighting for almost the entire time I’ve had the tank so it shouldn’t be too much of a shock to their system. We really didn’t want to use the chemicals an but the red cyano was so out of control it was killing everything and water changes and brushing and sucking it out just wasn’t working at all
 
IMO - lower it.

I've been scuba diving on reefs with water in the high 60's / very low 70's - nothing in the ocean needs water that warm.

When you are on the fringes of "normal"- which you are on several things - it doesn't take much of anything to have a negative affect. Shoot for the center of natural ranges with everything when possible. PH, Alk, CA, Temp, Salinity - center of natural and as stable as possible.

I also think that higher temps make things happen faster - just like with any land animals. When something bad is happening - you want it to happen slow. That is more likely to happen in cooler temp.
So what temperature would you recommend? And how long of a time period should I drop it? Also I still don’t understand why my parameters are unstable. I did take a sample to Pure Reef and it confirmed my results. I use Hanna checkers for dKH, PO4 and pH, handheld refractometer for specific gravity, Seachem kits for Ca+ and Mg+ which were recommended by Pure Reef and Seachem test for NO3
 
I agree your Temp is within the acceptable range, on the upper end though. And if you are confirming it with a glass thermometer, then that is good! If you want to lower it, I’d say do so only slightly: maybe 0.5-1.5 degrees F. I like to aim for 76-77.
 
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