Closed Loop Pumps

A few more details, gentlemen.

This CL will go over the back of the tank and drop about 2' to the pump and then be pumped back up to the CLM.

thanks,

Matt
 
Xyzpdq0121;30188 wrote: You are only increasing the pressure in the PVC at that point. The decrease in PVC size should to restrict the output in the pump much.

Hell in that case run a 9.5 and plump in some pvc at the outlets with holes in it (I forget what the tech name for the physics behind it is) but it will act like a cannon out of each nozzel..

Were talking apples and oranges here. I've been talking about tank turnover and your talking about water velocity. No matter how much you restirct the output of the water your still getting the same gph or less, but you will increase the velocity of the water out of the pipe.


If you want to turn the tank over 20x then you need a pump that will do this.


Matt,
With a tank full of anemone's this is a great idea to have a closed loop. this prevents the unfortunate chance of one getting pulled into a Power head, but I don't think you need that much flow for an anemone only tank. The mag 9.5 might be enough.

Rob
 
rhomer;30193 wrote: Were talking apples and oranges here. I've been talking about tank turnover and your talking about water velocity. No matter how much you restirct the output of the water your still getting the same gph or less, but you will increase the velocity of the water out of the pipe.


If you want to turn the tank over 20x then need a pump that will do this.


Matt,
With a tank full of anemone's this is a great idea to have a closed loop. this prevents the unfortunate chance of one getting pulled into a Power head, but I don't think you need that much flow for an anemone only tank. The mag 9.5 might be enough.

Rob

yeah, the CL works nicely as the intake can be spread out over a larger area as opposed to the concentrated powerhead, i had intended to build small boxes around each ph, but now that they have the recall going, i think it's a good time to switch to a CLM.

i want the higher in tank turnover to keep detrious in the water column and dead spots to a minimum. That's why i'm targeting the 30x +/- figure, the reef itself sees a lot more movement than that even... :)
 
Well, its all up to you, but I can tell you if you want 30x turn over, the math is quite simple to calculate and this will tell you the pump to get.

http://www.reefcentral.com/calc/hlc2.php">http://www.reefcentral.com/calc/hlc2.php</a>


Rob
 
rhomer;30193 wrote: Were talking apples and oranges here. I've been talking about tank turnover and your talking about water velocity. No matter how much you restirct the output of the water your still getting the same gph or less, but you will increase the velocity of the water out of the pipe.


If you want to turn the tank over 20x then you need a pump that will do this.


Matt,
With a tank full of anemone's this is a great idea to have a closed loop. this prevents the unfortunate chance of one getting pulled into a Power head, but I don't think you need that much flow for an anemone only tank. The mag 9.5 might be enough.

Rob

Rob, You are right, we are comparing apples to oranges. For a BTA tank, where filter feeding is not a huge priority, valocity is more of a concern then GPH. I am just all about saving money when need be and Matt can achieve good results witha MAG 9.5 or 18 over a 2400GPH pump.
 
Agreed, if it were me I wouldn't put that much flow in a tank housing only anemones, but I would put in a closed loop.


Rob
 
Well... :)

Perhaps I'll go w/ the poseidin... i'm a little leary of using a mag-drive pump externally, even though I know many people have done so... I may go w/ the Mag18 in the end to save some cash... but I'm still thinking along the lines of the squence snapper as it is only 98w in power consumption... :)

the poseidin and mag18 are each 140w+... on a 15amp outlet that's already getting close to 10amps used up for the tank alone, I'm trying to avoid pushing it as much as possible, even if it means spending a little more for a more efficient pump.
 
MattTVI;30204 wrote: Well... :)

the poseidin and mag18 are each 140w+... on a 15amp outlet that's already getting close to 10amps used up for the tank alone, I'm trying to avoid pushing it as much as possible, even if it means spending a little more for a more efficient pump.


Some thing to think about for sure... I wish I had my Mag 18 right now ( I have yet to order it, Maybe this weekend) so I could give you better advice about the end result.
 
MattTVI;30204 wrote: Well... :)

Perhaps I'll go w/ the poseidin... i'm a little leary of using a mag-drive pump externally, even though I know many people have done so... I may go w/ the Mag18 in the end to save some cash... but I'm still thinking along the lines of the squence snapper as it is only 98w in power consumption... :)

the poseidin and mag18 are each 140w+... on a 15amp outlet that's already getting close to 10amps used up for the tank alone, I'm trying to avoid pushing it as much as possible, even if it means spending a little more for a more efficient pump.
Was there an argument against getting the Snapper and throttling it back vs. getting a lower rated, but much higher power consumption pump?

BTW, according to MDM, throttling the Reef Flo pumps (
a>) will reduce power consumption and not lessen the life of the pump.
 
Was there an argument against getting the Snapper and throttling it back vs. getting a lower rated, but much higher power consumption pump?

BTW, according to MDM, throttling the Reef Flo pumps (http://www.reeflopumps.com/"><span style="color: #810081;">http://www.reeflopumps.com/</span></a>) will reduce power consumption and not lessen the life of the pump.[/QUOTE]

I don't know of any reason why you couldn't throttle the snapper back, some sequences have built in control for adjustment. Does the snapper?

Even if it doesn't, I can throttle it back as there will be a ball valve on the loop for when I have to service the pump.

thanks, great post!

Matt
 
After looking at that calculator on RC, I'm thinking that I might get the Snapper since after the friction loss around the corners and through valves and unions, I'd be right around my target 1800 gph for my 60 gallon cube.

The planning will have to be careful though. 2x2 area doesn't leave much room for lights *and* 1 1/2" pipes.
 
George;30227 wrote: After looking at that calculator on RC, I'm thinking that I might get the Snapper since after the friction loss around the corners and through valves and unions, I'd be right around my target 1800 gph for my 60 gallon cube.

The planning will have to be careful though. 2x2 area doesn't leave much room for lights *and* 1 1/2" pipes.

You need to slap a 250w MH over that tank and hang it 10-12" above the surface, no problems then... :)
 
dang it...

looks like it's a bad idea to go over the wall of the tank w/ a sequence pump. anybody doing it?
 
MattTVI;30278 wrote: dang it...

looks like it's a bad idea to go over the wall of the tank w/ a sequence pump. anybody doing it?
Why is it a bad idea?
 
George;30285 wrote: Why is it a bad idea?

I found an old post by anthony calfo on RC where he said it was a bad idea. Apparently these pumps are meant to be flooded w/ water, they are not designed to "suck" water like a submersable... :(
 
NAtt, that is true but in theory the pump will only have to suck for the first turn on, after that a siphon effect should take place to some extent. I do not know much about sequence pumps in this regard though.
 
Xyzpdq0121;30290 wrote: NAtt, that is true but in theory the pump will only have to suck for the first turn on, after that a siphon effect should take place to some extent. I do not know much about sequence pumps in this regard though.

Who's NAtt?!? :D

I know that should work, but for the long term success of the pump, it may not be... I think I will try and call sequence after this conference call I'm on and ask them about it... :)

thanks,

Matt
 
Theoretically, unless you're doing a tear-down or major water change, your closed loop should always be flooded. The cohesion of water should pull it up and down. The pump has to be able to do some sucking of water. There's simply no way gravity can feed a pump 3600 gph through a 1 1/2" hole without some force.

The intake just needs to be below the lowest level the water can drop to if the power goes off.

Or, for that matter, how about construct a self-priming container to put in front of it? Or you could buy one http://www.marinedepot.com/md_viewItem.asp?idproduct=DP2919">http://www.marinedepot.com/md_viewItem.asp?idproduct=DP2919</a>

Yes, I like this last idea best of all. :)
 
George;30295 wrote: Theoretically, unless you're doing a tear-down or major water change, your closed loop should always be flooded. The cohesion of water should pull it up and down. The pump has to be able to do some sucking of water. There's simply no way gravity can feed a pump 3600 gph through a 1 1/2" hole without some force.

The intake just needs to be below the lowest level the water can drop to if the power goes off.

Or, for that matter, how about construct a self-priming container to put in front of it? Or you could buy one http://www.marinedepot.com/md_viewItem.asp?idproduct=DP2919">http://www.marinedepot.com/md_viewItem.asp?idproduct=DP2919</a>

Yes, I like this last idea best of all. :)[/QUOTE]

oh, that is reasuring, what i was thinking was a tee at the top of the CL as it went over the back of the tank w/a threaded cap on it, i could feed that full of water before turning the pump on, then cap it and fire it up.

would that work?
 
MattTVI;30296 wrote: oh, that is reasuring, what i was thinking was a tee at the top of the CL as it went over the back of the tank w/a threaded cap on it, i could feed that full of water before turning the pump on, then cap it and fire it up.

would that work?
Probably. Basically the same thing without the big basket.

However the self-priming basket (bought or DIY) would ensure you were primed on power outages.
 
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