Cyano bacteria

killing the lights in my experience will help but if the root of the problem is not addressed its just going to come back. keep in mind no 2 tanks are the same so we can throw ideas at you but pinpointing your exact cause isnt possible without you trying a few differnet methods to see which one works.

this is what i would do. one at a time if you want to know the cause. it may be a combo of these things as well

-first thing i would do is frequent/larger water changes. (i might have missed it but didnt see what your schedule was)

-how much are you feeding and how often? are you rinsing your mysis rather then throwing the whole cube in? are you adding little amounts of pellets at a time to ensure they are all consumed before they hit the sand? take a look at your feeding and make sure your keeping your tank as clean as possible.

-(some may disagree with me on this but since this is what "i" would do ill add it) how is your flow, is the cyano starting in a few places in particular and spreading? i would make sure those areas got increased flow.

-next take a clean turkey baster and blow off your rocks, blow up the gunk in the bottom of your sump, etc... make sure all that stuff gets either sucked out or caught in a filter sock.

-consider adding a sand sifter. my diamond sleeper goby does a great job at turning over my sandbed. hes not going to "eat" the cyano but he will clean up what the cyano eats. if the goby isnt your cup of tea then find something simlar. remember your building an ecosystem here and sand sifters imo are a very important part of that.

if none of this starts to make a dent (and i cant imagine it wont)..only then would i consider cutting the lights. it will help but it wont fix the problem, just kill off what there at that moment.

again this is what i would do...if others would take a different approach thats fine
 
I'm thinking it might be my feeding. Just a hunch, but I tend to make sure no one starves!

My WCs are bi-weekly and about 20% each time.

My mysis doesn't get rinsed, but I don't add a whole cube either. I believe it might be the pellets.

I have a goby and maybe a dozen Nass snails that keep the sandbed spotless. All my Cyano is on my LR.
 
90galguy;753301 wrote: I'm thinking it might be my feeding. Just a hunch, but I tend to make sure no one starves!

My WCs are bi-weekly and about 20% each time.

My mysis doesn't get rinsed, but I don't add a whole cube either. I believe it might be the pellets.

I have a goby and maybe a dozen Nass snails that keep the sandbed spotless. All my Cyano is on my LR.


ok so i might bump it to 30% for a little while, get out whatever has built up. i read that as 2x a week is that correct or everyother weeks? to fight of cyano you will need to be doing more fequent and larger waterchanges

i would start rinsing your mysis. shrimp juice is nasty and isnt really consumed by your fish. i drop a cube in a net (brine or otherwise) and let it melt with the net resting on top of a small container of tank water (some use ro, its just easier for me to use tank water). when you lift the net the juice stays behind and the shrimp are left. obviously dont dump the cup back into the tank...

blow off your rocks with that turkey baster. sounds like you have some diatoms resting on that rock thats feeding the bacteria.

the good news is that your sand bed is clean. i personally would attribute a lot of that success to the fact that you have a sand sifting clean up crew. and that goes to show that the food down there is being consumed before the bacteria can get to it. take that concept to your rocks. maybe add a few more snails, hermits, etc to clean that up a bit?
 
Have you replaced those bulbs yet? Remember when you were inquiring about the ice fire echinata I was selling back at the swap? I told you to trash those deep blue bulbs and replace them.

I am not saying that this is the cause, but poor spectrum can contribute to cyano growth.

Edit: Also, bio available carbon dosing can contribute to cyano.
 
Ripped Tide;753393 wrote: Have you replaced those bulbs yet? Remember when you were inquiring about the ice fire echinata I was selling back at the swap? I told you to trash those deep blue bulbs and replace them.

I am not saying that this is the cause, but poor spectrum can contribute to cyano growth.

Edit: Also, bio available carbon dosing can contribute to cyano.
Still have the same bulbs. That's my next purchase. I'm going to slow down my feeding slightly and see what affect that has, then I'll bump up the WCs. Might as well use this as a learning tool and see what helps!

By the way................the 2 blue tubbs I bought from you at the swap are now 8!
 
90galguy;753402 wrote: Still have the same bulbs. That's my next purchase. I'm going to slow down my feeding slightly and see what affect that has, then I'll bump up the WCs. Might as well use this as a learning tool and see what helps!

By the way................the 2 blue tubbs I bought from you at the swap are now 8!


Glad to hear that they are doing well for you!

On subject... Cyano is funny stuff. Are you running carbon or gfo?
 
Ripped Tide;753429 wrote: Just saw that in the OP. how often are you changing it out? What is your temp?
Right now I'm changing GFO about every 4 weeks and Carbon every 2.
 
Try changing the gfo every two weeks. Gfo is most effective within the first 24-48hrs. It will continue to absorb phates for the next two weeks or so, but at a slower rate. Make sure that the rest of your parameters are balanced as well. Dosing fuel? Or other similar product?
 
Ripped Tide;753440 wrote: Try changing the gfo every two weeks. Gfo is most effective within the first 24-48hrs. It will continue to absorb phates for the next two weeks or so, but at a slower rate. Make sure that the rest of your parameters are balanced as well. Dosing fuel? Or other similar product?
I just started Kalk, but that's at the very beginning stages. No other dosing. I'm actually researching BRS 2part. Suggestions?
 
I've been using the BRS 2 part for a while. It's fine. When I run out, I'll probably switch to a ca reactor. Maybe not. I've been getting pretty good growth with 2 part. What ever route you choose, just keep it stable and balanced. If you find yourself with wacky numbers that seem hard to fix, you might have an imbalance. Which can cause cyano.
 
Ripped Tide;753448 wrote: I've been using the BRS 2 part for a while. It's fine. When I run out, I'll probably switch to a ca reactor. Maybe not. I've been getting pretty good growth with 2 part. What ever route you choose, just keep it stable and balanced. If you find yourself with wacky numbers that seem hard to fix, you might have an imbalance. Which can cause cyano.
yep................I feel like I'm stepping into the next phase of this whole "reef keeping" hobby and have to step up my game. Things are going well though. I'm very satisfied with what I've been able to put together so far with the help of people like yourself. I've almost found myself looking at the tank and smiling rather than stressed out that something is going wrong!!!!
 
The fun part is that we never stop learning. No matter how long someone has been doing it, there is always something new that pops up.

Dine gave some good advice about ways to help prevent cyano.

What are you full test parameters? Magnesium included.
 
ChemiClean worked for me, just follow the instructions. Keep in mind the dosage is per actual gallons of water, not the size of you tank. Make sure you subtract your water displacement via sand and live rock. You turn off your skimmer and UV sterilizer if you have one, dose the tank accordingly, wait 48 hours and do a 20% water change. Repeat if need be. On my first treatment I killed 99% of the red slim, so I waited until my next water change was due and treated the tank again with only a half dosage treatment and its all gone.

Good luck!
 
I would do chemical fixes as a last resort, because the stuff never really goes away. But the more gadgets you have for automation, the more fun it is for me. I really just need something to auto-mate water changes, an I'd be a happy camper
 
I run an ULNS for years, before most ever knew it existed, lol...and once a quarter, I need to do a chemi-clean treatment...that's not to say that u don't need to adjust your removal/additions of doc.
 
Chemi Clean works great

126 reef;752962 wrote: http://www.petstore.com/Boyd_Chemiclean_Red_Slime_Cyano_Bacteria_Remover_Aquarium_Medications_Treatments-Boyd_Enterprises_(Chemi_Pure)-BE1115-AQSWME-vi.html">http://www.petstore.com/Boyd_Chemiclean_Red_Slime_Cyano_Bacteria_Remover_Aquarium_Medications_Treatments-Boyd_Enterprises_(Chemi_Pure)-BE1115-AQSWME-vi.html</a>

I have always used this stuff and had great results with it.[/QUOTE]
 
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