Dream Chip Build Thread

haninja

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I was able to get 3 of the 100W 5 Chanel 'Dream Chip' with the following configuration:
1) 20 x 10000K (White)
2) 20 x 455nm (Blue)
3) 10 x 420nm, 10 x 430nm (UV range)
4) 20 x 445nm (White)
5) 20 x 15000K (Blue)

This is what the chip looks like:
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My plan is to run 3 channels - White, Blue and UV across all 3 chips and have manual dimming. Here's a crude diagram showing how 1 chip will be wired, the other two will be connected the same way in parallel.

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I assume the little squares with the 3.0A and 1.5A labels are fuses?

You'll want to use quick-blow fuses on the negative lines from each chip.
 
Yes, they are fuses and they are quick-blow. What is the significance of wiring fuses on the negative vs the positive?
 
Not sure if there is a difference, I think I just misread your diagram and thought the negative lines were on the bottom...

Edit: Also, there were some articles I read about using some additional circuitry to provide current balancing capability on parallel strings:

http://www.edn.com/design/led/4368158/Protect-power-LED-strings-from-overcurrent


Basically, it appears to use transistors and some high-power resistors to act as "dummy" loads.

If one of the LED strings in parallel goes out, the transistor switches the load to a resistor to take up the current - leaving the other LED strings running at their normal current draw.
 
Got all kind of goodies for my "Dimming Controller Box"
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And started building it.
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So I hooked up one of my dimmable drivers to a voltmeter and a 100k potentiometer to test the dimming. I'm getting a constant 36v no mater how I turn the potentiometer... what am I doing wrong?
 
The driver is rated for up to 36v, and its a constant-current driver, and you're measuring the voltage not the current.

With no load, the voltage will go to 36v.

The 100k pot adjusts how much current is being supplied, not voltage.

Put a LED on with the meter in series to measure current - as long as your meter can handle up to 3.5A DC.
 
LOL...

You can expect the voltage to vary anywhere from 32-36V, depending on what's required to overcome the forward voltage of the LEDs.

You should be able to dim it down to about 10%, but you may also see some strobing at that level or below that.
 
Nice!

Let me know if you would like any plastic covers/adapters/etc, I have a good 3D printer that can print plastic.
 
GiulianoM;828165 wrote: Nice!

Let me know if you would like any plastic covers/adapters/etc, I have a good 3D printer that can print plastic.

So you got that thing up and running?? I would be interested in seeing examples of what you were able to create? Maybe a lounge post???
 
JBDreefs;828198 wrote: So you got that thing up and running?? I would be interested in seeing examples of what you were able to create? Maybe a lounge post???

Yep!

I've got it working pretty well now, though there's some tweaking I need to do before I can print larger pieces...
 
Be careful haninja with those 100 watters. I have 14 of the 50 watters on my system running currently and they get real hot. My meanwell's get extremely hot as well. I can imagine how hot the 100 watters get.
 
GiulianoM;828165 wrote: Nice!

Let me know if you would like any plastic covers/adapters/etc, I have a good 3D printer that can print plastic.

3D printer, hmm, can you make me a gun before the ban? J/K
This is going to be inside my canopy so I don't think I'm going to need anything, but thanks.

Reefkeeper;828284 wrote: Be careful haninja with those 100 watters. I have 14 of the 50 watters on my system running currently and they get real hot. My meanwell's get extremely hot as well. I can imagine how hot the 100 watters get.
14 x 50watts :eek: are you lighting up the GA aquarium?
 
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