Dream Chip Build Thread

[giulianom]

haninja;828361 wrote: 3D printer, hmm, can you make me a gun before the ban? J/K
This is going to be inside my canopy so I don't think I'm going to need anything, but thanks.

Is there an open top on your tank?


Even though the leads on the LED are covered by heat-shrink tubing, there are still exposed areas of the LED plate that can be attacked by salt spray leading to corrosion.


One thing I thought of is that you could put a small circle of glass in between the LEDs and the open air, to protect the LED surface.

Borosilicate glass (tempered, high-temperature) discs, exactly like this:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Borosilicate-glass-discs-50-mm-x-3-mm-/110999923656?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item19d81c6bc8">http://www.ebay.com/itm/Borosilicate-glass-discs-50-mm-x-3-mm-/110999923656?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item19d81c6bc8</a>

A plastic shell could be made pretty easily to hold the glass...

 

[giulianom]

I came up with something that I could 3D print as a LED cover, with a 50mm borosilicate glass plate to protect the LED chip.

I used a model of an AMD reference heatsink and my model of the 50W LED chip package and designed around the two.

Isometric View

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Outside View

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Inside View

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What do you think?

 

[ripped tide]

I just looked up 3D plastic printers on YouTube. Very cool!

 

[jbdreefs]

Do you think the cover would hamper the light spread significantly?

 

[giulianom]

JBDreefs;828608 wrote: Do you think the cover would hamper the light spread significantly?

Probably not, if the glass is close to the LED - I have it about 5mm from the LED, though you could probably even make it flush with the LED.


That is also why I recommended borosilicate glass, as it's designed for high temperatures.


The heated bed on my printer is made out of the same stuff, handles 120C with ease.

 

[haninja]

Nice idea Giuliano. So you think the LED can sit directly on top of the glass? Otherwise, if you look at the heat sink, will have to manufacture some kind of bracket inside the box to hold it.

 

[giulianom]

haninja;828801 wrote: Nice idea Giuliano. So you think the LED can sit directly on top of the glass? Otherwise, if you look at the heat sink, will have to manufacture some kind of bracket inside the box to hold it.

I think the LED could probably sit right on the glass - I got some clear high-temperature silicone with my LEDs that I used to "glue" the reflector and lens on my LED's.

The glass is borosilicate, made for high-temperature environments.


If you like, let me borrow one of your heatsinks for a few days and I'll design something up.



Also, how are you planning on mounting the LED chips to the heatsink plate?


The 4 holes in the corners are exactly 34mm apart from each other, and are designed for M3 (3mm) metric screws.

I would recommend seeing if the heatsink plate could be drilled and/or tapped for screws.

You'll want to screw-mount the LEDs so that the backing plate gets good pressured contact with the cooling plate for best efficiency.


I could help with that...

 

[haninja]

Well, I tried the drilling the heatsink but wasn't very successful. I opted to use thermal adhesive which I got anyway to mount thermal switches. Which leads me to another component of the build - I was recommended to attach Thermal Switch Normally Close 65&#8451; as an extra precaution for the chip overheating. It looks like this:

http://www.atlantareefclub.org/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=42294&stc=1&d=1358530893" alt="" />

And thanks for the offer Giuliano, might take you on that later.

 

[giulianom]

Thermal switches, cool!

Got a part number?

 

[cdavidson]

GiulianoM;829942 wrote: Thermal switches, cool!

Got a part number?

The can be found if you search KSD9700. However, I dont see them on Mouser or Digikey under that product name.

 

[giulianom]

cdavidson;829966 wrote: The can be found if you search KSD9700. However, I dont see them on Mouser or Digikey under that product name.

Easily found on eBay, search for KSD9700 and the temperature, and look for Normally Closed (NC).

e.g., KSD9700 65c

http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_trksid=p2047675.m570.l1313&_nkw=ksd9700+65c&_sacat=0&_from=R40">http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_trksid=p2047675.m570.l1313&_nkw=ksd9700+65c&_sacat=0&_from=R40</a>


Pretty cheap.

 

[haninja]

Let there be light.

I'm not sure I can actually show the colors but here's all at 10%

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UV at full

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Blues at full

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Whites at full

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[rdnelson]

Sweet!!!!!!

 

[porpoiseaquatics]

This is a crazy build but I love it!!! Way to go Hanin!! Can't wait to check this baby out when I come over.

 

[giulianom]

I'm getting a quote from ac-rc for 3 100W versions.

 

[giulianom]

So, apparently these chips aren't 100 Watt LED's, they're 100 Chip LEDs with a total maximum power draw of 252 Watts.

Each column of 20 (10x2) LEDs is a max of 36V @ 1.4A (50.2W), so with 5 of them on 1 chip = ~252 Watts.


Hanin, you are going to want to monitor the temperature of your LEDs at the heatsink closely - those coolers are rated for only 95W of heat dissipation - you may only be able to run the LEDs at like 37% power unless you boost your cooling.


I have had discussions with AC-RC, and they recommended a much larger heatsink - and even this one only goes up to 220W:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/220W-Multichip-LED-Cooler-/271051176895">http://www.ebay.com/itm/220W-Multichip-LED-Cooler-/271051176895</a>


I'm planning on getting 3 of these chips too, and I'm considering powering them each with 5 x 1A driver chips, all fed by a single large AC/DC power supply.

At 1 Amp, it's still 180W of power from one chip, and it should run cooler as well.

 

[haninja]

I will definitely be running them at low intensity at first both to monitor the temp and to adjust my corals to the new lights. I also have the thermal switches as a safety measure.
I was actually thinking about getting the large aluminum heat sinks you have

 

[giulianom]

haninja;834250 wrote: I will definitely be running them at low intensity at first both to monitor the temp and to adjust my corals to the new lights. I also have the thermal switches as a safety measure.
I was actually thinking about getting the large aluminum heat sinks you have http://www.ebay.com/itm/1-pc-up-to-100W-Watt-LED-Aluminium-Heatsink-Round-XXL-10W-20W-30W-45W-50W-100W-/251138638338?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3a79078202">previously</a> found and attaching a 120mm fan to them. I think that will give me what I need for cooling.[/QUOTE]

I am not entirely sure about that - for a radial fin heatsink like that, even with a fan, I'd think it would have to be at least twice as long.

Not 100W of dissipation, 252W of dissipation...

That is why larger heatpipe-based coolers (may be) required.


Something like this might work - but they're big and tall:

[IMG]http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835146026">http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835146026</a>


Another example, with a rated TDP of 180 Watts:

[IMG]http://www.coolermaster-usa.com/product.php?product_id=3053&product_name=Hyper%20212%20EVO">http://www.coolermaster-usa.com/product.php?product_id=3053&product_name=Hyper%20212%20EVO</a>

 

[picoreefguy]

you might also consider liquid cooling using water blocks to mount the leds to or TEC's in conjunction with the large heatsinks

 

[giulianom]

I ordered myself 3 x 100-chip Dream Leds for my 150G tank, plus those 200W coolers.

Nice thing about these coolers is AC-RC includes an adaptor plate to mount the LEDs.

I'll start my own build thread once I get them.

Initial plans are to under-power each channel with 1A current instead of 1.4A, which should reduce the thermal to about 180 Watts worth.

Meanwell makes these small driver chips, capable of 1A current, fully dimmable.

The idea is to put 5 on a circuit board for each Led, all powered by a large 350-500W DC power supply.

Probably Arduino or Raspberry Pi for controlling the dimming...