Finishing a Stand
- Thread starter giulianom
- Start date
You trying to give Dave a run for his money?? :lol2::lol2::lol2:
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You can use some of the stain in the sealer and do some more toning if you like.
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No more than 10% stain or adhesion problems can occur. I never thin the Gemini stuff. turn the volume down low and start out on the back of a door,:up: With the toner the color lies on top . See the advantage?
rdnelson99;836934 wrote: Looking very nice..
Thank you.
My wife describes the color as having a bronze tint to it when viewed in the light...
Sadly, I can't spray my wife with the dye and give her an instant tan...
Well, I could...</em> but then I'd never get to starting a build thread, because she'd have bitten my fingers off.
Nice. When are we going to see water?
Thanks Kris!
I looked at it this morning, and some of the stain on the door panels seems to have evened out a bit over night...
It's hard to get a good representation with a picture, but in person it's starting to look really really nice, and that's without the clear coat finish.
There are a few spots that I'll touch up with the sealer tint method that Grouper Therapy mentioned above, and then I'll seal it... sand it some more, and then a few coats of the satin clearcoat.
Also, as a serious answer to this question, here are some of the things I have to do before I can get water in the tank, after I finish the stand:
<ol>
<li>Put down the laminate flooring in the living room, where the stand currently is being sprayed/finished.</li>
<li>Install an utility sink in the garage, partly to act as a water drain for the RODI and semi-automatic water changes.</li>
<li>Build the sump room equipment stands out of 2x4's and Kreg pocket hole screws/glue. Also spray them with sealer to waterproof them, that I can do in the garage.</li>
<li>Start an Epic Build Thread.</li>
</ol>
The Epic Build Thread will cover running the plumbing (4 x 1.5" PVC across a 20' span), setting up the RODI, booster pump and the 30G water barrels, setting up the Hammerhead return pump, drilling the tank for the closed loop, Oceans Motions 4-way, etc...
I'm pretty much going to be busy every weekend for the next month or so... minus 4 hours for the next meeting on the 23rd.
So, probably mid-March.
Sprayed on another coat of the stain, no sealer yet.. just putting some finishing touches here and there, and also sprayed the inside of the stand.
One thing I have figured out now is the air volume control knob, which allows me to reduce the spray down to a very small area.
I added some enhancements to the stand door panels, to bring out the "faces" some more.
I present to you:
The Skull
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Ancient Master or Panda
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Some Other Face (?)
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Sadly, the 4th door panel doesn't appear to have any face that I can discern... but it still looks nice.
I will let this sit for a few hours to let the stain be fully absorbed into the wood, then I'll spray on the sealer coat.
One thing I have figured out now is the air volume control knob, which allows me to reduce the spray down to a very small area.
I added some enhancements to the stand door panels, to bring out the "faces" some more.
I present to you:
The Skull
Ancient Master or Panda
Some Other Face (?)
Sadly, the 4th door panel doesn't appear to have any face that I can discern... but it still looks nice.
I will let this sit for a few hours to let the stain be fully absorbed into the wood, then I'll spray on the sealer coat.
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The Punisher...
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with feet
and ET
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with feet
and ET
Finished with the sealer coat, and started sanding..
I started with a 320-grit sandpaper, but I found it to be too rough, so I switched to 000-grade (fine) steel wool.
The steel wool worked much better, and allowed me to get it into all the rounded corners and other curved profiles where sandpaper or a grit sponge had trouble.
The downside of steel wool is that it leaves bits of steel as it wears down, so you have to wipe down the wood and vacuum it well.
I just sprayed it with the first coat of satin clearcoat, and it's looking better and better.
After it dries a bit, I'll re-sand it with 0000-grit steel wool (super fine), and give it another coat of clearcoat.
I plan to give it about 3 coats of clearcoat all together, so it should be done by tonight!
I started with a 320-grit sandpaper, but I found it to be too rough, so I switched to 000-grade (fine) steel wool.
The steel wool worked much better, and allowed me to get it into all the rounded corners and other curved profiles where sandpaper or a grit sponge had trouble.
The downside of steel wool is that it leaves bits of steel as it wears down, so you have to wipe down the wood and vacuum it well.
I just sprayed it with the first coat of satin clearcoat, and it's looking better and better.
After it dries a bit, I'll re-sand it with 0000-grit steel wool (super fine), and give it another coat of clearcoat.
I plan to give it about 3 coats of clearcoat all together, so it should be done by tonight!
