I have a question again...

[kstyle13]

The canopy I'm wanting to build is like this. Nog that high off the tank, but like this. So the entire bottom between the tank and lights is open.

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[xyzpdq0121]

LOL. Looks like that canopy is meant to sit on the tank and they have a wench system on there to raise it up for maintenance and feeding. Sammy for Aquabuys has a similar system with hydraulics I also think Raj has a system like that. A bit overkill to run your system like that 24/7 IMHO. You are going to want your halide bulbs about 6" from the water or so. Personally I would hate to have and exposed bottom on my canopy where light is going to leak out because I i don't want to see the light. I do not want my guests to see the inner workings of the system, just a piece of furniture. but that is my opinion. If you bottom is open like that, then fans should blow into across the bulbs and heat exchange should not be too much of a problem.

 

[acroholic]

The sump for my 465 (halide lighting)is in an unfinished part of my basement. I have a fan that blows across the sump via a temperature trigger setup on my RKE. It did not have an issue keeping up with it last summer, and I have 2260 watts of light between the halides and the VHO actinic lights.

My basement, and most basements are a bit cooler than the first floor of any house, however.

 

[kstyle13]

Yea I think that canopy does raise up. However mine won't it will be able to be adjusted as needed but not completely raised. I am building a false wall around the tank so only the tank will be showing but sections of the wall will be removable so I can do maintenance. I'll post pics when it finally finished. Lol

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[xyzpdq0121]

Well if you are going to have a false wall then heat and humidity may still be a problem.. I would recommend 2-4 120mm fans that put put a pretty good CFM. Just remember to have them all blowing the same direction (in this case I would recommend in) and an exhaust port for air to move out with. This will help with the heat an potential mold issue that comes with tanks being behind walls and enclosed false walls. I would also think about designing a fan system for the sump if needed. Something like this works well under a stand and adjusts to the angle needed. http://www.amazon.com/Kaz-HT-900-Honeywell-TurboForce-Fan/dp/B001R1RXUG/ref=lp_3737601_1_1?s=home-garden&ie=UTF8&qid=1392661469&sr=1-1">http://www.amazon.com/Kaz-HT-900-Honeywell-TurboForce-Fan/dp/B001R1RXUG/ref=lp_3737601_1_1?s=home-garden&ie=UTF8&qid=1392661469&sr=1-1</a>

Just remember that with evap cooling comes extra ATO needs. If you dose Kalk in your ATO, this may be a problem in the summer time. So a separate Kalk system MAY need to be thought out. But still FAR cheaper than a chiller!

 

[jdavid]

I just measured and my 400w 20000k is exactly 15" off the water and 30" from the sandbed.

I don't have a par meter (Giuliano does though) but I don't need that to tell that my corals and clams are getting enough light

 

[kstyle13]

Lol the ceiling is 15 feet high. So the fans will be below the lights blowing up and allowing the air to escape through the top. I will also be mounting a box fan at the top blowing out to help speed the airflow. As far as underneath it's def. Gonna need a fan. I was thinking about a vent on each side with a fan pulling into the area and pushing across the top then out the other side

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[acroholic]

Xyzpdq0121;936235 wrote: Well if you are going to have a false wall then heat and humidity may still be a problem.. I would recommend 2-4 120mm fans that put put a pretty good CFM. Just remember to have them all blowing the same direction (in this case I would recommend in) and an exhaust port for air to move out with. This will help with the heat an potential mold issue that comes with tanks being behind walls and enclosed false walls. I would also think about designing a fan system for the sump if needed. Something like this works well under a stand and adjusts to the angle needed. http://www.amazon.com/Kaz-HT-900-Honeywell-TurboForce-Fan/dp/B001R1RXUG/ref=lp_3737601_1_1?s=home-garden&ie=UTF8&qid=1392661469&sr=1-1">http://www.amazon.com/Kaz-HT-900-Honeywell-TurboForce-Fan/dp/B001R1RXUG/ref=lp_3737601_1_1?s=home-garden&ie=UTF8&qid=1392661469&sr=1-1</a>

Just remember that with evap cooling comes extra ATO needs. If you dose Kalk in your ATO, this may be a problem in the summer time. So a separate Kalk system MAY need to be thought out. But still FAR cheaper than a chiller![/QUOTE]

That is the fan I use on my 155 gallon sump. 3 speed I think. Draws less than 20 watts on the middle speed setting. Sorry for the monster picture, hehehe!

[IMG]http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/61xKfzBtZsL._SL1500_.jpg alt="" />

 

[xyzpdq0121]

kstyle13;936244 wrote: Lol the ceiling is 15 feet high. So the fans will be below the lights blowing up and allowing the air to escape through the top. I will also be mounting a box fan at the top blowing out to help speed the airflow. As far as underneath it's def. Gonna need a fan. I was thinking about a vent on each side with a fan pulling into the area and pushing across the top then out the other side

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If it is pretty much a sealed area, the box fan will not do much on top. In air dynamics theory the limiting factor will be how much air is provided. As such you can not pull more air then you can take in. So if you fans pulling in are lets say 500 cfm then the box fan can not pull out more than that. So a simple exhaust grate will be enough. No granted that is in a closed system which a wall is not, but you get the drift.

Same goes for under the tank and above the sump. There is some merit to having exhaust ports under a tank (think traditional stand) if the back is not open, but in most cases the air is cool enough (not like under a canopy) to have proper evap cooling without the need.

 

[kstyle13]

The top won't be sealed. It will be complelty open. Which would a 6 foot by 2 foot opening. So a box fan pulling air out of one end with a small fan going over the light should in theory be enough to remove excess humidity from the area above the tank... Now below the tank is where the vents would be used because it will be sealed.