Ich in my 280 reef I need treatment advice

[ceb125]

I finally got my 280 gallon reef tank up and running and stocked with most of the fish i wanted then I ended up with ich. (lesson learned)
I have lost my yellow longnose buttery fly, powder brown,sailfin tang and yellow clown goby. I bought a 75 gal tank and have caught all my fish except one of my engineer gobies (but i havent give up yet)
I have a coral beauty,purple tang,yellow tang,blue regal,latern bass,4 chromis,2 engineer gobies,tomini tang,flame hawk,yellow coris wrasse,sunrise dottyback and a sapphire damsel.
I would like to hear sugestions on treatment I got them in a 75 gal no rock or sand i treated the tank with ruby reef kick ich and rally i caught the powder brown and dipped him in ruby reef hydroplex but he died about three days later (he was the last one to die) These treatments was when they were still in the reef tank.
My lfs sold me some coppersafe and said that would work ( he said kick ich would work) ??
Please help

 

[ralph atl]

<span style="color: #ff0000">Formalin (but hard to find)</span>
<span style="color: #ff0000"></span>
Cupramine or Paraguard are other possibilities...

 

[buffcole]

I use Crypto-Pro. I took the advice of a long time member. Took it out in a couple of days, but you have to finish the cycle (10-14 days) to get rid of the ich completely. Use this in a QT tank only. This is just what I use, there are other things out there. You can get it here. http://www.nationalfishpharm.com/products.html">http://www.nationalfishpharm.com/products.html</a>

Always QT fish. Do you specifically know it is ich, sometimes it can be other things and there are some treatments that treat a for couple of parasites (something with Formalin in it). Ask Jenn at Imagine Ocean.

 

[greggreenberg]

I used kick iCh worked great !!

 

[ceb125]

I thought it worked for me also but my powder brown died after treatment the fish that are still alive look ok but i think i should treat to be on the safe side i would prefer a treatment that is not to harsh on them.

 

[jennm]

Hikari Ich-X contains Formalin. It will also address other infestations like Brooklynella, which is sometimes confused with ich.

Sorry for your losses - I hate hearing stories like this

Jenn

 

[ralph atl]

JennM;804244 wrote: Hikari Ich-X contains Formalin. It will also address other infestations like Brooklynella, which is sometimes confused with ich.


Jenn

well that will work then!

 

[ceb125]

Will the mardel coppersafe from my lfs work as well or should i chunck it??

 

[jennm]

I like the Ich-X product because it addresses more than just Ich. Copper won't touch Brooklynella or Amyloodinium - and those are 2 infestations that are very different from ich, but are often misidentified as ich.

Jenn

 

[the curious]

I recently had an ich outbreak as well. Like you, I wanted to treat the illness in the least stressful way that I could. I found a few articles about the tank transfer method, which sounded kinda too good to be true. Then I decided to really research the life cycles and reproductive strategy of the ich parasite.

If it is not ich, Hikari Ich-X is the way to go, because it will treat other possible infections, like Jenn said.

I saved 5 fish that were infected...after my 3rd tank transfer I couldn't see a single spot (I continued to transfer a couple more times anyway, ich *******s like to get in the gills where we can't see them). I will always use the tank transfer method, at least as the first attempt at curing a fish with possible ich. Its cheap, easy, involves absolutely no chemicals,

It is advised that the display tank be free of fish for at least 28 days before reintroducing fish. I made the mistake of putting my fish back in too soon, and had to start the tank transfer treatment all over again.

http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1990809">http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1990809</a>

Good luck...Hope this helps

 

[ceb125]

Well I decided to try the ich-x I went to the lfs and they had one bottle so I started the treatment Friday morning I changed the water about 26-27 gal ever morning and retreated 6.5 teaspoons for the 65 gal water capacity of the tank.
Everything seemed to be going good until three days ago my flame hawk started acting weird and yesterday morning his eyes was white chalky looking by the evening he had died.
Well this morning my tomini tang was dead and my purple tang and one of my clowns won't eat and the purples tangs eyes are white glazy looking and several others are scratching and have some white spots back on them.
Anyone have any ideas? Start coppersafe? Let what happens happen?
I still haven't caught one of my gobies out of the DT.
HELP!!!

 

[jennm]

Hmmm.... cloudy eyes isn't usually a symptom of ich or Brooklynella....

Do you have any photos of living or deceased with the symptoms visible?

I'm sorry for your losses. I'm growing to hate fish

Jenn

 

[lagunareef]

Wow, I am sorry to hear. Almost your entire fish population besides purple tang, clown and goby?

What maybe hinders treatment is also the volume of water you are dealing with. Do you have corals? What other livestock do you have in tank? Can you perhaps give more specifics?

 

[ceb125]

I moved everthing to a 75 gal QT with nothing but a bunch of 1 1/2 pvc cut into short sticks for hiding measured the inside of the tank and the water depth and it comes up to 65 gal I'll try to get some pictures after while

 

[lagunareef]

If you are treating fish only with no rocks or corals, I wouldn't be hesitant to try any medications (even coppersafe) to save what you have left. I went through same ordeal years ago and my last recourse was using coppersafe. Maybe improper and ill informed, 'nuking' the system and starting over with a low salinity 'saved' my system (at least the majority of the livestock). I'm sure there are other better medications and remedies but as severe as it is, you can certainly try anything...best of luck,:sick:

 

[jennm]

Don't mix a copper-based med with the Ich-X. In fact I wouldn't suggest mixing any medication with the Ich-X. You may end up with a serious interaction.

If you plan to change gears with medication, then a 100% water change would be in order.

Also - never run carbon with any medication as the carbon removes the medication. UV can break down medication too. If you're using meds in food (ie Metronidazole) then you can continue carbon, UV and skimming but any medication that's used in the water, can't have any of those unless it specifies otherwise.

Jenn

 

[ceb125]

I don't have any filtration just daily water changes.
water test are good

 

[ceb125]

These are the dead fish and the Purple tang that is still alive at the moment.
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[lagunareef]

I have a Marineland 350 filter if you want to borrow and use for filtration per your QT setup. Relying on water changes alone may be good, but filtration for purpose of oxygenation and medication may also help. Let me know and sorry for your loss...

 

[ceb125]

Thanks for the offer I have a 350 canister i can hook it up I just need to take the carbon out and replace the filter. I was supposed to be done with the Ich x by friday but this new outbreak has set it back I am tempted to put them all back in the 280 and hope for the best My friend got this them same time I did (we bought fish from the same place at the same time) and he treated with kick ich and rally like I did his powder blue still looks bad but everything else looks good and all his fish are still alive.