Motion Ocean: Yay or Nay

gmpolan

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I am almost done collecting parts for my new set up and recently picked up one of these. Now, ive heard alot of good things about these and alot of bad as well. So i wanted to see what everyones thoughts are on using one of these..... Its the OM Squirt with the 3/4 outlets so i will have to upsize to 1 inch coming off the OMto go into the two returns.

Tank is 72 x 32 x 24 with an external overflow and two returns that come on down through the bracing.
 
Yeah, i know right esp after i just had the other tank built but im doing a Ocea 250 and building a fish room in the basement.

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OM units are awesome. I'd highly recommended using them.
 
thanks raj, i just always heard horror stories about sand getting in there then they get stuck etc...any issues with my running 1 inch in downsizing to 3/4s then 3/4s out to a 1 inch
 
gmpolan;649060 wrote: thanks raj, i just always heard horror stories about sand getting in there then they get stuck etc...any issues with my running 1 inch in downsizing to 3/4s then 3/4s out to a 1 inch

If you have sand getting in there, you have the inlet too low! Anyway, I would definitely advice using valves and unions like they're going out of style. You want it to be easy to get to and disassemble should you have the need. I have mine valved and unioned so I have very little water spillage and easy installation.

You should be fine reducing it like that, but why would you?


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Second on the OM. Very nice product. Sand is the biggest concern. Keep the sand out and they are bullet proof.
 
Thanks for the thread!!! I've been needing the same info. Are you using it on the sump return or CL? How do you plan on utilizing the circulation? I wanted to do a emerging CL sand-bed return switching between clockwise and counter clockwise.
 
typically, they're run on closed loop systems..

with reducing the pipe/fitting you're going to cause a bottleneck and reduce flow through the OM unit.

better to keep everything 3/4, than to reduce at the OM fitting.. (as you increase pipe size, you decrease pressure of flow through the pipe, with the OM being the choking point, you'll still move the same flow of water, but it won't come through your pipe with the same pressure all smaller pipe would...)


I WOULD recommend using oversized valves and unions and bulkheads on the line though. (since a 3/4" union reduces internally to a little over 1/2")

if you're going to use 3/4" pipe, then use bushings with 1" bulkheads and bushings with 1" unions/valves
 
gmpolan;649060 wrote: thanks raj, i just always heard horror stories about sand getting in there then they get stuck etc...any issues with my running 1 inch in downsizing to 3/4s then 3/4s out to a 1 inch

If you're doing a closed loop drilled on the back, go ahead.

If you're doing one through the bottom, don't. We had one on a client's tank and it was forever getting clogged with debris - eventually we just took it off and now all 4 outlets have flow all the time.

Jenn
 
JennM;649290 wrote: If you're doing a closed loop drilled on the back, go ahead.

If you're doing one through the bottom, don't. We had one on a client's tank and it was forever getting clogged with debris - eventually we just took it off and now all 4 outlets have flow all the time.

Jenn

you can get around that by using flexible hose and putting the MO device above the "sediment drop"... (think drip loop used for electrical cords)

another way around it is to put the inlet for the closed loop in the top 1/4 of the tank (back wall)
 
This doesn't seem to be the OM4-way, but the squirt.
This seriously limits the flow capability...
 
It is the squirt so im still trying to decide if this work but the looks of the convo i doubt it...
 
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