~New to saltwater - 29gal w/15 gal sump~

Take the check valve off and clean it maybe. Hopefully it's a true union check valve - if so it will be easy enough.

Jenn
 
Well given their configuration, I'd say a check valve is necessary, or their sump may overflow in the case of a power failure.

I prefer the clear, True Union Check Valves - they are more expensive, but easy to maintain and in our experience they've been reliable. You can see into them to make sure they are clean and you can unscrew them to clean them when needed.

Jenn
 
I agree with you - absolutely. However in this configuration I'd say it's a must.

But yes, ideally having it set so it doesn't *need* one in the first place is best case scenario.

Jenn
 
kvdigiulio;684235 wrote: James and Crystal
I am very impressed with your progress. You are doing all the right things for someone new to the hobby. All your research and planning shows , your tank looks awsome. Keep taking it slow and use this site for any questions and concerns, the people here are very helpful and will keep you from making expensive mistakes. Feel free to call with any questions you may have. :up: Jim

Thanks Jim! We appreciate your help and advice ;) Just a few more things and it'll be ready for the good stuff. :yes:



Edit: My bf decided he's going to put an threaded elbow into the bulkhead on the inside of the tank. I think our hole is just a little too low, the elbow is going to give us a higher hole for the return. If the check valve were to fail, this would fix that problem ;)
 
http://www.ebay.com/itm/0PPM-Portable-50-GPD-Reverse-Osmosis-RO-DI-Filtration-/110691608751?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item19c5bbe8af"><span style="color: Black">Should we buy mostly dry rock & add a few lbs of live rock? Also, with sand too.. mostly dead/plain sand and then add some live sand? </span>
</a>
 
The more live rock and sand you buy the more expensive it is, but it makes your cycle time a little shorter. You folks seem like the patient type so going with a little bit of live stuff and letting it culture a bit would save some money. I even find the little bit of life on a new piece of LR quite fun to find and ID. Welcome to the ARC!
 
Frantz;685250 wrote: The more live rock and sand you buy the more expensive it is, but it makes your cycle time a little shorter. You folks seem like the patient type so going with a little bit of live stuff and letting it culture a bit would save some money. I even find the little bit of life on a new piece of LR quite fun to find and ID. Welcome to the ARC!

Thanks.. that sounds good :up: We were thinking about buying this dry rock.. http://www.marcorocks.com/25poundboxkeylargonanosizesnewfrommarcorocksnowprecuredfreeshippinginthecontientialus.aspx">http://www.marcorocks.com/25poundboxkeylargonanosizesnewfrommarcorocksnowprecuredfreeshippinginthecontientialus.aspx</a>
and getting about 10lbs of live rock from our saltwater fish store. Also, probably buying mostly plain sand and adding like 10lbs of live to it..

Edit: [QUOTE=][B]viperrob;685292 wrote:[/B] Welcome to the club.[/QUOTE]

Thanks :D
 
Heaters: Which of these 2 is the better one?

Fluval M 150watt
http://www.amazon.com/Fluval-M-150-Watt-Submersible-Heater/dp/B0027VONH6/">[IMG]http://www.livingreefs.com/images/misc/amazon_icon.gif" alt="" /></a> [IMG]http://www.amazon.com/Fluval-M-150-Watt-Submersible-Heater/dp/B0027VONH6/">Amazon.com: Fluval M 150-Watt Submersible Heater: Pet Supplies</a>

or

[B]Aqueon Pro 150watt[/B]
[IMG]http://www.amazon.com/Aqueon-06107-Submersible-Aquarium-150-Watt/dp/B003C5TMU4/">[IMG]http://www.livingreefs.com/images/misc/amazon_icon.gif" alt="" /></a> [IMG]http://www.amazon.com/Aqueon-06107-Submersible-Aquarium-150-Watt/dp/B003C5TMU4/">Amazon.com: Aqueon 06107 Pro Heaters Submersible Aquarium Heater, 150-Watt: Pet Supplies</a>
 
What about..

Hydor Theo
a>
 
I agree with not cheaping out on a heater, however I respectfully disagree on a couple of your brand suggestions.

Stealth heaters got recalled - if you still have one, get rid of it. They short out, leak voltage and occasionally stick on and melt. (Search "Stealth haters" not "heaters", "haters" on this forum) Take it to your dealer and they will exchange it for something else.

Eheim Jager are good (formerly Ebo Jager) arguably the best heaters - on that we do agree.

Won Brothers heaters are JUNK - so are any other titanium heaters I've encountered - I strongly suspect they all come out of the same overseas factory and they all fail in short order too.

A lifetime warranty on a heater is small consolation after they kill everything in your tank. So the manufacturer will replace the heater - big deal - all your stuff is dead and you're on your own for that.

Jenn
 
We ordered the 150 watt Fluval. They sell them at Petsmart for $36 (on sale right now), we got a deal on that one. We'll see how it works out ;)
 
http://www.marcorocks.com/5lbs50lbsliverockdryrockcombo.aspx">http://www.marcorocks.com/5lbs50lbsliverockdryrockcombo.aspx</a>

Would it be fine to order this? I hear that Marcorocks is a good place, but people are also saying not to buy live rock online. Also, would 55lbs be too much for my 29gal tank?
 
55 lbs would be a lot. The Marco rock is good, and you'll be happy with either, but
personally, I like Pukani rock from BulkReefSupply.com better than the Marco rock. It's lighter, so you get more volume for the $$. It has more nooks and crannies for the fish to hide in, and it interlocks easily, so it is good for stacking and zip-tying into structures.
 
Looks pretty good. Now to play the waiting game for the PH to drop.
 
Butch;689358 wrote: Looks pretty good. Now to play the waiting game for the PH to drop.

Thanks! :D Yeah, it's definitely the waiting game! We just started making rock last weekend, so I'm sure we're going to be waiting a while.. considering the PH is off the charts lol
 
3 months later.. no film.. still reading high 9's! Changing the water every couple days & scrubbing the rock. We're starting to think it's just never going to cure.
>
 
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