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It’s kinda early for that size of UV this early stage of the built. Go slow. lol
Onlyreefers WB Marine X 110 build
- Thread starter kodock
- Start date
I haven’t hooked it up yet lol
Requires a lot of unique plumbing and architecture to hook it up right anyway. I would like to skip this dino/cyano problem.
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Well, I’ve gone thru all of those in my current system as well. Cyano and Dino and “Diatom” is very different.
You might Still having diatom. This will be in your tank for a while. Like upto a year in some cases. Bigger the tank the longer it will take. Ha
You can tell because it smell sour and blows right off the rocks and sand etc. And will keep coming back. UV wouldn’t help in this case. Your tank just gotta find the balance btw the water that you are using (sillica has to do with it a lot I think). and mirco fauna in the ecosystem as it is added. This will go away on its own.
Cyano usually comes from unbalance of nitrate and phosphate and it takes a longer before is formed in the tank usually. And is around the low flow area and is like a mat. UV will help with killing the water born bacteria so it helps. Just feed more and usually goes away on its own. YMMV
Dino is similar to diatom but has air bubbles in them. UV will help killing the air born bacteria and will help. Avoid things like amino when you see them. Feed less and do more cleaning helped my system in the past.
It went from diatom to Dino to cyano.
Hook that thing up~. You gonna need it since your tank will likely have many fishes.
You might Still having diatom. This will be in your tank for a while. Like upto a year in some cases. Bigger the tank the longer it will take. Ha
You can tell because it smell sour and blows right off the rocks and sand etc. And will keep coming back. UV wouldn’t help in this case. Your tank just gotta find the balance btw the water that you are using (sillica has to do with it a lot I think). and mirco fauna in the ecosystem as it is added. This will go away on its own.
Cyano usually comes from unbalance of nitrate and phosphate and it takes a longer before is formed in the tank usually. And is around the low flow area and is like a mat. UV will help with killing the water born bacteria so it helps. Just feed more and usually goes away on its own. YMMV
Dino is similar to diatom but has air bubbles in them. UV will help killing the air born bacteria and will help. Avoid things like amino when you see them. Feed less and do more cleaning helped my system in the past.
It went from diatom to Dino to cyano.
Hook that thing up~. You gonna need it since your tank will likely have many fishes.
Thank ya! Lots of great info in there. I never had a dino issue in my other tanks years ago, but I know it’s what they are. They are starting to dissipate a little though. I’m hoping another algae will out compete them, but yes the silicates are probably the culprit - and nitrate phosphate combo.
I tried turning the skimmer during the day to dirty things up and give more bacteria/algae room to grow, some corals loved it, some acted like babies so I wen’t back to 24/7. I’ve read that the your water could be “too clean”, but everyone’s experience can be different. I also want more rock surface area, but don’t want to mess with the scape.
Anyway, in the past I ran dirty soft coral tanks. This round I was going for pristine clarity and sps one side, lps the other side.. but who knows.
Honestly scared to add more fish, we’re addicted to the gem tang and I don’t want to bring any disease in. I will say.. she does look bored, wish I could give her some hoops or a beach ball to play with lol If you go up to look at the tank, she will swim back and forth in front of your face and block your view.
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Now you will want to have more fish in order that your tank can handle the very Bio load, which is the very process in order for us to have a coral thriving in our system.
Unless you are going to have more fish, I won’t recommend adding more rocks or extra surface areas. Consider all the surface as a football field and your coral which is very little in total area into the middle of the field not taking much of the space. All that space need to be covered with bacterias and such, which would take forever so you only slow down your tank from cycling faster. Unless you are using real live rock, that’s different story.
I think your tank is way too clean. You got one fishing that pic your tank is not going to derive or run until you actually go through the whole cycle.
I also suggest you might want to put on CO2 scrubber. Your skimmer is aerating so if you want your corals to grow faster to scrubber on a skimmer.
Unless you are going to have more fish, I won’t recommend adding more rocks or extra surface areas. Consider all the surface as a football field and your coral which is very little in total area into the middle of the field not taking much of the space. All that space need to be covered with bacterias and such, which would take forever so you only slow down your tank from cycling faster. Unless you are using real live rock, that’s different story.
I think your tank is way too clean. You got one fishing that pic your tank is not going to derive or run until you actually go through the whole cycle.
I also suggest you might want to put on CO2 scrubber. Your skimmer is aerating so if you want your corals to grow faster to scrubber on a skimmer.
I gotcha. I do have 5 clowns as well. My torches get iffy when the skimmer is off. Mushrooms are making babies. I’m 3 months in, not including the 2 weeks of salinity overdose. I seeded this tank with 2 mini colonized rocks from other tanks.
Some updated pics.. Changing the nem guards. Building buying a table shelf aquascape to go behind/above the hammer garden on the right side, without casting a shadow. Torches, hammers, and softies will go on the right, and montis and sps on the left Hammers and torches went to 2-3 heads now.
Going to add a mid-level powerhead on at least 1 side. The 2 sided output counteracts with the gyres and really isn’t optimal for precise flow.
Also had to rip the waterbox door off and make it magnetic. Will do the other one soon.
Going to add a mid-level powerhead on at least 1 side. The 2 sided output counteracts with the gyres and really isn’t optimal for precise flow.
Also had to rip the waterbox door off and make it magnetic. Will do the other one soon.
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Update: nem split into 2 gigantic coral stingers. Most sticks didn’t make it. Hammers have grown a lot, torches and shrooms doubled in size. Video does size better justice.
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Beautiful tank. Sorry to hear the nem decided to go rogue. I love them for their beauty but hate them for the death they cause.
Thanks!!! Yea, they’re starting to lock tentacles with my biggest torch, so can’t risk that one. I’m looking to get a bigger tank now for the tangs so should help more with room
Waterbox journey is coming to an end. Upgraded to a 6ft ProStar 230. So long waterbox.. I’ll be selling this one.
Nice tank!
Shelf railings up the wall presumably for a hood arrangement?
Yep, I’m going to use a 20” closet shelf (should be far enough, maybe not) and build a 1x6 pvc board frame around as a sort of “floating” canopy. I’ll find a way to disguise the railing, but this way I can move it up and down for ample lighting.. and I can hang lighting anywhere no problem.
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Almost done setting up the 8’, but these nems are taking over the 4’ WB. These 3 Colorados are about 21” wide each. Tried detaching them, but no dice. I’ve had a phosphate issue and cyano issue, even with a full bare bottom.. lost all my torches. Hoping to setup a GFO and carbon reactor in the new build.
Just taking some final pics of the nems before the transfer.
Just taking some final pics of the nems before the transfer.
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8’ tank sounds AMAZING!!!
And having your water value going up, why use GFO? Your new tank will start with much lower phosphate level because the size of your new tank. Giving you a time to get your filtration in more organic way? (Carbon dosing or turf scrubber maybe).
Activated carbon should be used sparingly if necessary and never 100% of the time but that’s my opinion. (Put in for few days and take it out when smell goes away from your hand when working in your tank).
Bare bottom just helps with more flow and less places for the detritus to settle. Never helps with balancing your nutrient.
I also try to remove anemene from my main tank with no success…. Started with two and now three…. But they are tiny and they seems to be less aggressive. It takes stony corals few months before dyeing when they are touched constantly. Maybe it’s because they are so small? Only way I can remove em is removing the rock they are attached to.
Curious as if you are going to put em in the 8’ tank. I think you should…
And having your water value going up, why use GFO? Your new tank will start with much lower phosphate level because the size of your new tank. Giving you a time to get your filtration in more organic way? (Carbon dosing or turf scrubber maybe).
Activated carbon should be used sparingly if necessary and never 100% of the time but that’s my opinion. (Put in for few days and take it out when smell goes away from your hand when working in your tank).
Bare bottom just helps with more flow and less places for the detritus to settle. Never helps with balancing your nutrient.
I also try to remove anemene from my main tank with no success…. Started with two and now three…. But they are tiny and they seems to be less aggressive. It takes stony corals few months before dyeing when they are touched constantly. Maybe it’s because they are so small? Only way I can remove em is removing the rock they are attached to.
Curious as if you are going to put em in the 8’ tank. I think you should…
Yea, that’s what I was thinking, hoping the higher water volume will compensate. Hoping the tangs can pig out on Nori and not have to worry about cyano. I feed just enough, but the nutrients just aren’t under control. I tried carbon dosing but it caused a mini-swing-crash that maybe I’m unfit to manage. I had better parameters with sand honestly.
Also adding some more rock. I think the 8’ will be nems and LPS/shrooms. Maybe I’ll do a second frag tank for just corals that I can control more nutrients on.
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