streaming DIY (IoT)data....so cool.. just dont want my toaster and toilet demanding I do it before they turn on.
I teach RPI mosquitto w/ thingspeak publishing MQTT weather station data. Though I never used thingsboard, I was thinking their secret sauce were the easy custom skins/dashboard. Got to have bling.
You have everything but one large " Bottle of Wiring Install and Software Config " w/ convenient spray-on applicator in the BOM.
This may be one of the best in class since I built (and still use) a quaint Jarduino Led controller (with manual bypass pots).
I'm pondering what a valuable minimalist DIY P1AM-100 starter might look like. 1. A catastrophic boiling(temp) animals and house flooding internet(IoT) alert. 2. AC !!!! or DC soft start and variable (PWM) pump control/ timer (wave maker) with manual toggle feed mode.
tag: reef, IoT, Arduino, P1AM, DIY
New Update!
Really liking how easy thingsboard integration was. Backend integration was NOT something I was looking forward to. Still, the MQTT API is pretty universal, so integrating it into another platform like ReefPi wouldn't be too difficult.
Added the "P1-08SIM" module as an onboard master control switchboard and I've actually liked it a lot more than I thought.
Added the Chronos.h library back in for the scheduling alarms
Moved all of the IO declarations into their own file (IO.h)
Now with schedulers in place for lights, dosers, autofeeders
Weird little "hello world" application in the ATO task that pulses the front LED indicator a specific number of times
New task in place for autofeeders (hasn't been compiled, much less tested). Same for dosers.
New task for "power equipment"
Now logging levels can be set on an individual task basis! (i.e. log verbose on a new program while only warning and above on the others)
Now Thingsboard Telemetry and RPC's are in two separate tasks.
New task for lights
Added the IO Mapping file
Is this some new hip lingo reference I'm missing? then man... I just started saying yeet like not that long ago, you're going to have to bring me up to speed.Check
I know it seems like there's not a lot of comments after your posts. But I for one am following along. I really like what you're doing so far!New pic-
Sometime soon I'll do an overlay to show how I've shifted some of the wiring for convenience.
1) I see you're using a couple Neptune modules, PM1 & FMM. How easy was it for you to incorporate them into you're design and do you plan on replacing them in the future?
I plan on getting a Trident or two at some point down the road. Do you think you'd also be able to add one, or multiples, into this? Or is something like that a little too complex?
I don't see how something like that could be replaced via DIY at this time. Do you think it's possible?
Yes3) Would you be willing to come over to my house and take a look at what I've got planned for my new tank and fish/sump room?
I moved into a new house last fall and am in the process of finishing the basement. Space is not something I'm going to be lacking in this go around. I've got a 500 gallon display being delivered in a month and the sump room is around 450sf.Adam,
TYVM for the shout! let me try to answer some of your questions and give some feedback (this may take multiple posts) but these are excellent questions!
Space was a big consideration in this design, and it's one of the reasons I chose to strip and ferrule all of the 120V cabling instead of using the standard 120V wall socket. What you've spec'd up there is 36 relay outputs. That's a lot of electricity, and you should really take that into account when designing your system.
For PM1 (pH, ORP, Digital Inputs), the unit I got from DFRobot.com (~$40) took the same BNC probe. Right now, I've reconnected that probe into the Apex because that's where I last calibrated it. The pH probe that came with it had a cable that was too short, so I've ordered a new one. The AI unit I'm using (P1-4ADL2DAL-2 ) is 0-10V (external 24VDC supply), but the DF robot unit I'm using is 0-5V, so I tied the 0V of the 5V and 24V supplies and it gives excellent accuracy/precision.
For the FMM - right now I have it active. The Digital Output unit I'm using (P1-08TD2 ) can actually drive that PMUP pump directly, so I'll be able to use that.
The IR optical sensors that determine the water level are 3-wire npn sensors, which will work with the sinking/sourcing digital input card I'm using (P1-08ND3), will drive the states.
I'm actually going to get at least 3 IR optical sensors, and here's why - the top will be a "redundant" to the middle, and the bottom will be a "safety check", so if I've accidentally knocked it off of its spot and all 3 are out of water, I don't want the ATO pump to turn on. That's one of the reasons I wanted the Red/Green/Blue indicator lights - to always err on the side of "failsafe", and make sure that it's not the "chokepoint" of the system. That's why I added the Input simulator modules (P1-08SIM ) - they give you as close to a "hard-wired" system as possible, so if your HMI/webpage isn't reloading, you have always have a way to control the system.
I have the AFS module as well. In the next revision of my code, there will be a DO mapped to a DI channel on the Apex, and tie the Autofeeder signal to the digitial input on the PM1 module and keep the Apex jr. running.
Is it possible? yes. Am I going to have time to spearhead the project? probably not.
Neptune took years and years to develop this module, and it only works with the Apex Neptune aquacontroller. And since it's a proprietary system, there's no feasible way to tie directly into the low-level signals and readings. What is possible, however, is to integrate the data from the Trident in with the data from this into the same cloud platform.
Yes