Redundancy
- Thread starter NanCrab
- Start date
I currently have a 500w heater in there but only 1, not 2. So maybe I misunderstood.
For 125 Gallons I believe that they were recommending instead 2 200w or 2 300w heaters. It is better to half your desired wattage and split between two heaters for redundancy and safety factors. Larger systems might even run three heaters or more.
Thanks for your reply to my question. I am particularly interested in #2 on this list. I’m not far enough in for #3.
What do you think the biggest mistake new reefers make with salinity?
Newbie mistakes : Not checking salinity before water change to match and matching temperature so the salinity is true match. Not using their ATO properly or one at all also causing salinity issues. And changing salt mixes and forgoing stability too many times
Yes; @sharis100 all of that.
Also,
•Not using an ATO and trying to keep sensitive corals in a Nano.
•using hydrometers instead of Refractometer.
•or even not knowing what are acceptable salinities for their livestock.
Also,
•Not using an ATO and trying to keep sensitive corals in a Nano.
•using hydrometers instead of Refractometer.
•or even not knowing what are acceptable salinities for their livestock.
Ok @ActiveAngel and @sharis100 I do check salinity and temp of both prior to changes. My specific gravity in my QT tanks has been hovering between 1.026 and 1.027 which is not what I want. I want my DT to be 1.025, which it is currently. I have the Tunze 3155 attached to a 10g Trigger ATO that goes with my sump. We have marked the low and high lines and THANK YOU Shari (and one other person) for recommending that. I just did a 40% water change in my QT tanks using the fresh 1.025 water to bring those tanks closer to what they will be going into after it is cycled. That wasn’t the purpose of the water change but was one thing I wanted to happen. Everything is open, extended, swimming or working (cuc) so I think it’s ok and my QT tanks were both right at 1.025+ but not to 1.026
I’ve only changed salt once. Used IO reef crystals for the QT’s and decided to go with Brightwell for the DT
Currently the biggest issue I am having is with the pH in the DT. I’m about to test it with the Red Sea kit because the Apex has been reading it low, test kit looks a tad higher than probe reading. I just recalibrated the probe again and now it is reading critical low. I’ll let you know what the test shows.
I’ve only changed salt once. Used IO reef crystals for the QT’s and decided to go with Brightwell for the DT
Currently the biggest issue I am having is with the pH in the DT. I’m about to test it with the Red Sea kit because the Apex has been reading it low, test kit looks a tad higher than probe reading. I just recalibrated the probe again and now it is reading critical low. I’ll let you know what the test shows.
Probe was reading 7.97, API test 8.0
Recalibrated the probe with fresh 7 and 10 solutions that I had floated in the tank half the day to bring to tank temp. Now probe is reading 7.77 and Red Sea Kit I would say 8.2. I don’t have Hanna checkers yet, will have to save up for those.
This is one reason I’m asking about redundancy. I like technology and automation if it is going to work
Recalibrated the probe with fresh 7 and 10 solutions that I had floated in the tank half the day to bring to tank temp. Now probe is reading 7.77 and Red Sea Kit I would say 8.2. I don’t have Hanna checkers yet, will have to save up for those.
This is one reason I’m asking about redundancy. I like technology and automation if it is going to work
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The most important reading that APEX can give you is a stable reading that is consistent- although it might be slightly not perfect. But, the probes can be really off and you can ask Neptune - put in a service ticket and reach out to them - to see if they can help. You might have to have them replace the probe if it is not reading or calibrating properly, or they might give you some help with the probe and readings. Neptune has always been good about servicing my stuff. If you want, I would be happy to let you borrow my Hannah checker or maybe someone’s who is closer to you and you can compare its reading with Red Sea and APEX that can tell you where your true reading is more likely to be. Your tank is still brand new and pH probably will not be where you want it during this stage and before dosing etc..... Your pH eventually will look like a nice wave form on the APEX app- ranging to high in the middle of day lights on to a low at night when you run the refugium on a reverse cycle when your tank gets established. But it should not be a huge swing, just a small swing back and forth depending on the time of day. The most important thing about pH is stability, not necessarily a perfect pH, but a consistent pH.
Thank you Shari. I may take you up on borrowing the Hanna since I have some Dr appts coming up over there. I will call Neptune to see if they can help me. I know these probes can be touchy and need to be cleaned regularly. I just question the accuracy because I didn’t use the Apex probe with my QT’s and had no problems with pH according to the test kit. Thanks AGAIN for all of your guidance and support.
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