Reef safe Ick medication

mojo

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Has anyone used a marine ick medication that was safe on the reef itself? I've got an outbreak on my PB tang (ironic, given the recent thread), and want to take care of it before it takes over the fish.

I've read about Kick-Ick and some others - anyone have any direct experience?
 
mojo i have out breaks as well but if your fish are healthy i wouldnt bother just add some cleaner shrimp and do it the natural way also if you use uv run it slow should be ok if fish is swimming .....my blue hippo tang use to get it all the time and noone else would so should be fine
 
I know this is kinda a BS cure for most....But I found it worked or the fish cured its self not sure.

I had my first outbreak about 2 months ago on my Regal.....
I used Garlic Guard from SeaChem and soaked some Algae sheets in it, Fed for 1 week and I have no visible Ick breakouts for 2 months.

Like I said not sure what really happened but that was my only intervention in the process.
 
I have always used garlic and a uv unit. O have cured several fish that way in the past. Pnce it finally drops off the uv kills it and it never returns. Anyway I hope the best for you.
 
Mojo, i had the same problem with the PBT. I decided not to treat the ick and made sure all his foods were chalk full of vitamins. I found that after a cpl weeks of food soaked in zoe, zoecon, beta-glucan, garlic, and marine-c the ick disappeared. If the tang is fairly new it may just be his response to all the stress hes been through recently and the vitamins can help fatten him and restore the fish's natural immune response to pathogens.
 
Use Kick ick and make sure you go through the 15 day cycle to insure you kill all the eggs. Turn off your UV when treating. As for Garlic, I would taint your fish food with garlic so you can build up the fish's immune system. This process turned out very successful for about 4 months ago.
 
Im not trying to antagonize you bronco, I just really feel these "invertebrate safe" medications are also safe for cryptocaron-an invertebrate as well and can play havoc with water chemistry. I think the best method especially with PBT is to ensure there is heavy oxygenation, and that he is receieving lots of vitamins to aid in his recovery from being starved during shipping (if hes new), these can all be factors that can cause a fish to show signs of stress in ick, and the ick normally corrects itself once the tank is stabile and the fish is getting a healthy diet.
 
I say leave it alone and keep it happy and feeding. If it gets REAL bad you can QT it in hypo which is the best treatment I know of for this stuff. I live with the stuff in my tank but rarely ever have more than a few spots on a tang.
 
Thanks for the tips everyone. I've had that tang for about a year now (maybe 1.5yrs) - he was a rescue from another tank from jmaneyapanda, and had ick when I received him, but has been clear for the past year. I added some new fish the other day (without going through QT... stupid, stupid), and now I see it mostly on my PBT and a little on my yellow tang.

I picked up some kick ick and some metronidozol, but decided by the time I got home to try to just treat the nori with metronidozol and garlic, rather than risking the entire tank.
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That is pretty bad. Are you talking about treating the whole 600 gallon system? That would be pretty costly. I would think you could buy a QT system for less than that. What fish did you add? I know it's a stupid question, but what are your params? Most often, fish can "kick ich" (pun intended) if the conditions are good and the fish is healthy. That's why the voodoo treatments work.
 
You got PM Chris...

I am stay out of the "advice" field on this for once. But I will say, if you need a QT system tank. I got mine here that are not in use.
 
chris if he is swimming fine and eating well it should be ok.....he is probably just stressed cause of the move all the treatmentsof flat worm and finally the new addition ......im pretty sure youll be ok.if you got the fish from the same place i saw you at the other day you ll be fine i had an out brake as well but all is well i have cleaners and a uv.......and if im not mistaken you also run ozone
 
here is an option that worked for me, but I wouldn't recommend it because it goes against most trusted leaders in the reef field. I can say that It 100% definitely worked for me. At the time, I only had soft corals in my tank, and I did not have any STONY corals whatsoever! ALL fish recovered 100% due to this treatment. It was not from luck, immunity, or whatever. My tang is now 2 & a half years old, but was near death at the time Almost all of my fish had it at the time, and all recovered that were alive at the start of the treatment. I know there are solutions that work 100% of the time, unfortunately, this is not one of them.

1) I installed a UV light. (it has since been removed)
2) I used "Reef Safe" Kick-Ich. (quoting from marine depot's site) It is a water treatment for the control of ich (a.k.a. "whitespot disease") in marine and freshwater aquaria. It has been scientifically formulated to eliminate the free swimming, infectious stage of the ich life cycle while being safe for all freshwater and marine aquaria. Kick-Ich has a long shelf life at room temperature and is supplied in easy to use, self-dosing bottles. Safe for all fish, corals, invertebrates and macro algae, as well as the facultative anaerobes and nitrifying bacteria essential to biologic filtration.
3) I talked directly with the owner & used a higher dosage that compensated for me running a skimmer for 12 hours a day. i also DOSED TWICE after a 2 week break.
 
I think Brandon would reccomend a cleaner wrasse; it'll take care of your situation asap!

:D
 
Skriz;131049 wrote: I think Brandon would reccomend a cleaner wrasse; it'll take care of your situation asap!

:D



:doh:



Ya, that is exactly what you need...
 
No Partrick214, it's not bologna, it's a simply a proven method of what I used to cure the symptom the person posted. What I posted is a fact and the process of what I followed to cure several hundreds of dollars of very expensive fish. Your opinions and experience may be differ from others and for you to call it bologna, that your prerogative. If we had all the answers we all be millionaires and maybe we would have been the ones who developed Kick ick.
 
I may have come across wrong bronco, like i said i wasnt trying to ruffle your feathers, or dispute its efficacy in your situation :) I agree with what you said about the kick-ick, it allegedly kills the free-swimming state of the parasite, and it may do this very well, my only problem with that is crypt cysts have been known to last well over two weeks before maturing to tomites and this leaves you only another sub-optimal condition away from seeing it again in many instances. I was just trying to give my opinion for FWIW that i think trying to focus on optimal diet and environmental conditions is often all that's necessary and perhaps more prudent than seeking a quick-fix. :)
 
In most cases (and this is strictly IMO), ick is managed by the fishes own immune system. I think a lot of people dose these cures and think because the ick goes away that the cure did it rather than simply believe good water, low stress and healthy fish were the real fix. Just relax and track the fish over the next week. If it starts getting worse, change strategies but I think you will find that a little patience is all that is needed in this case.
 
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