Aloha Chris,
Yuck ... that's some nasty looking Crypto for sure! As Bruce mentioned, we try to avoid Crypto by not adding new fish to an established tank, however, when first setting up a system you usually can't add a lot of fish at once, especially with large tanks, so you have no choice but to add more fish later, the key is to do so slowly and to quarantine fish. We rarely add fish without treating them in a q-tank first. Once Crypto is in the system you can't get it out, so now you have it or more likely you always had it. By adding so many new fish at once, you upset the status quo in terms of bioload and behavioral stress, and the fish could not longer keep the parasite at bay. You can try removing all the fish from the tank for at least a month, two would be better. Without a host, theoretically the parasite will have no host to infect and will die out. In practice, this does not always work. I am convinced that the parasite can sense whether there are fish present or not, and can go dormant if no fish are present. One way to "trick" them would be to take water from a tank with fish and add a few ounces to the tank with the disease and without fish. This may fool the parasites into thinking there are fish in the tank due to "fishy" chemicals in the water. I know a few people who have had some success with this technique.
I read through the thread, not sure what you want to accomplish by using an antibiotic like metrodizanol though. Many of the garlic products are of questionable value since the form of garlic they contain does not contain enough alycin (sp?) which is the active ingredient in garlic, it oxides very quickly once your cut the garlic, I have heard of people mincing the garlic and feeding it straight to the fish. Might be worth a try? I don't have any experience with the products mentioned in the thread.
If you can't remove the fish there are some other things to try.
1) Increase the temperature to the high 80s and try to cycle the parasite out of the tank. If there are corals in the tank this is probably not an option though but can be used in quarantine.
2) Add cleaner shrimp (fire shrimp are not very active cleaners IME), they will eat the parasites off the fish but won't do much about the cysts in the sand/gravel.
3) Do nothing, feed the fish well, even try garlic laced feeds if you have any or freshly minced garlic, and hope the fish will fight off the disease on their own. Fish have very effective immune systems and it is not unusual in systems with excellent water quality, for the fish to get better on their own. Of course, as Bruce mentioned, the parasite is still in the water, but it never reaches high levels. The problem will come again if/when you add new fish to the tank as these fish will have weakened immune systems and will probably come down with it.
As to what it is, there really is only one way to find out what you have and that is to do a skin and fin scrape and examine it under a microscope. Unless you do this, no one can tell you definitively what you have. The way to do this is to remove the fish and take a microscope slide and literally scrap the sides of the fish and fins, with the edge of the slide removing mucus and maybe a few scales, place a coverslip on it and take a look under a microscope. Most hobbyists don't have a microscope but maybe someone in your club does or has access to one? It is a really good idea for a club such as yours, to invest in a microscope that can be available to anyone in the club at anytime, as well as some good fish disease ID books. You can get fairly decent ones for under $500, cheaper than flying in a speaker and probably more useful in the long term. ;-)
Of what you listed Ich, Brooklynella, Lymphosystis, or microsporidean, it most likely is not Lymphocystis since this is not usually contagious and is viral, pray it is not Brooklynella as this is VERY difficult to deal with, microsporidean sounds a bit too exotic to me, my money is on ich and the globules you see on the powder blue may just be excess mucus production by the fish in response to the infection.
You can also try UV but in order to kill off a protozoan like ich, you will need a very high output on the order of 200,000 uW sec/m2. See Pablo Escobal's book Aquatic Systems Engineering for more info on how to properly size a UV sterilizer. I would be very skeptical of the claims in that thread that UV killed it off in the tank unless they were using a commercial unit that was properly sized and supplied with the proper water flow; otherwise I think it is just coincidence or the UV did something else to the water that helped improve the water quality like lower bacteria levels and/or reduce organics.
My advice would be to keep feeding the fish and make sure you have optimum water quality and high dissolved oxygen content and see if they don't recover on their own.
A painful lesson but ... a quarantine system is the best insurance you can get for your system. That and a microscope. After treating the fish in Q we always do a scraping and maybe even a gill snip, and take a look under the scope to make sure it is clean before we put them in a display system.
Aloha!
--
J. Charles Delbeek M.Sc.
Aquarium Biologist III
Waikiki Aquarium
University of Hawaii
2777 Kalakaua Ave.
Honolulu, HI, 96815