Remote Sump layout

[giulianom]

Ripped Tide;880460 wrote: G, how long does it take you make one of those images on sketchup? They look amazing, but I know that it takes me FOREVER to do a simple drawing. I feel like if I were to put the time into making the images that you have, I could have plumbed the system 5 or 6 times already! Lol

In total? Oh, I'm sure it's countless hours, 15 minutes here and there.

Most of the trick is to make the shapes simple - like the water storage tank models, they started out as flat circles, which then are "extruded" into a cylinder at whatever height I need.

Turn the resulting cylinder into a Component, and now I can move it around as a part, make duplicates, etc..


Most of the parts are not explicitly drawn by me - I re-use common components from Google's 3D Warehouse: http://sketchup.google.com/3dwarehouse/">http://sketchup.google.com/3dwarehouse/</a>

The floor joists and the stud walls are another example of [I]dynamic</em> components - all I have to do is plug in the length, height, stud spacing, etc.. and it draws them all as a single component.


Likewise for the PVC piping - someone else made SCH40 PVC pipe models, and all I do is copy them, extrude them to the length I need, and done.


The [I]rest</em> of the time is just moving things around to see how they would "fit".

Better to do it all now in a virtual environment than to have to make (sometimes costly) mistakes in the real world.


I think the most I spent on any one part or parts were a few hours of carefully measuring and designing the model of the skimmer and pump...

 

[ripped tide]

That makes more sense. Me + sketchup = profanities and frustration

 

[enderg60]

rdnelson99;880461 wrote: No you just have to draw a picture of it. We have to use a shoe horn and KY Jelly to get it in place.

Hey blame the architects! I just make things fit where I can *giggidy*

Edit:

GiulianoM;880459 wrote: Ok, that makes a bunch of sense.

I may either try the slot method with the table saw, or perhaps drill a hole pattern with the drill press..


I think I will stick with 2" PVC for the pump inlet, trying to go for 3" will be pricy with true-union ball-valves.


I'm thinking a strainer piece somewhere between 6" and 12" long, with a pattern of either 1/4" or 3/8" holes drilled around...

The 2" intake for my dart closed loop is about 24" long and I cut slats every 1/4" almost half way through the pipe on both sides. I used the table saw because I really didnt want to drill half a billion holes.

 

[giulianom]

EnderG60;880468 wrote: Hey blame the architects! I just make things fit where I can *giggidy*

Edit:


The 2" intake for my dart closed loop is about 24" long and I cut slats every 1/4" almost half way through the pipe on both sides. I used the table saw because I really didnt want to drill half a billion holes.

Where in your tank and in what orientation is that intake pipe? Vertical? Horizontal coming out from the back?

I also have a Dart that I will use for the closed loop, and so I had assumed taking the intake from the back side of the tank... But I could make a vertical intake through the bottom.

 

[enderg60]

Mine is vertical, but thats only because I ran my closed loop over the back of the tank(I dont like drilling holes in my display)

Horizontal is just fine. From your pic a few pages ago you have two intakes for the closed loop. I would use 2 T fittings horizontally and make it one big strainer, or use one T vertically with pipe on both ends up and down. I just know 20" of actual slotted piping(not including the end cap and 90 at the top) is more then enough for a dart.

 

[grouper therapy]

EnderG60;880468 wrote: Hey blame the architects! I just make things fit where I can *giggidy*

Edit:


The 2" intake for my dart closed loop is about 24" long and I cut slats every 1/4" almost half way through the pipe on both sides. I used the table saw because I really didnt want to drill half a billion holes.

Hmmm:unsure:

 

[giulianom]

Added the baffles to the sump so I know how much room I have for an intake strainer...

Relocated return pump and UV under the stands - still working on the plumbing routes.

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[giulianom]

More or less finalized the sump layout, barring any minor tweaks...

I think I like how this is shown here.

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Hammerhead pump relocated to the bottom shelf, intake upgraded to 2" piping.

Designed an intake strainer out of 2" piping for in the sump, 8" long with 1/8" slots cut every 1/2" along the length of the tube, on the top and bottom. The gap in between the slots horizontally is 3/4".

Relocated the UV also to the bottom shelf, tee'd off from the pump outlet. I plan to put unions above and below that tee so I can take that segment out entirely if I need to and swap in a piece of tubing to match.

UV Flow controlled by the output tube, which runs along the back of the stands into the drains section of the sump.


The white piping in the right side of the sump is the spray bar for the refugium section. There will be a pump in the large area of the sump to feed the spraybar.


Next up, re-working the closed loop plumbing for the tank itself, to try and get the OM 4-way higher up...


I have a week off during the last week of August, I hope to be able to start on at least some of this...

 

[curtismaximus]

Love it! The only thing I would add is another T from the return to run some reactors. Other than that it looks awesome! Glad you kept the sink, that will be nice when you need it!

 

[giulianom]

brchapm;883756 wrote: Thanks for sharing your sketches....How would you propose to tie in a frag tank to your sump? My question is selfish in nature as I am trying to do the same thing you are...

For me, it seems I will need to lower my sump somewhat to allow my frag tank to drain naturally, but I would prefer to have the sump higher for viewing and maintenance purposes.

Also curious about your skimmer and how you are going to flow the water back into your system.

Thanks again!

The skimmer is above the sump, on the shelf on the wall.. the tube that extends down is the drain for the skimmer, I just hadn't made the tube show as going all the way down yet...

Skimmer is a recirculating skimmer, to be fed by a pump in the sump... fed up to the sump, gravity drains down.


I'll answer the part about the frag tank in a bit..

 

[giulianom]

brchapm;883764 wrote: Excellent, I see it now. Do you anticipate any splashing associated with the skimmer drain? Again, just picking your brain!

Probably not, I'll extend the drainage tube down to about an inch or so above the level of the sump baffles.


Some closed-loop restructuring:

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I made the depth from the back of the tank to where the inside wall would be to about 10" so I could have some more room behind the tank.

Closed loop intake is in blue, output is in purple... I haven't finished the output lines yet, but they'll probably come up through the bottom of the tank in the 4 corners or thereabouts.

Again making use of a shelf on the back to hold up the CL pump, rather than it being on the floor... the difference in head pressure should be somewhat less, too.

 

[giulianom]

Getting closer to a "final" (lol) closed loop layout for the output lines.


Used elbows instead of 2 x 45's on the corners.

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View with the stand hidden.

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View from the front, from your typical viewing angle.

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The pipes towards the front side of the tank are centered about 4" from the inside corners.

The pipes towards the back side of the tank are also 4" from the back wall, but they're in-set further from the sides, about 6.5" - purely for plumbing layout purposes.


I think I'm going to get ready to order some plumbing fittings in a week or two, and start an actual build thread in the last week of August... That's when I have time off.