skinning a 2x4 stand

jdavid

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Just snagged a 30g rimless setup. The stand is a 2x4 frame with a sturdy base painted black. I have had some sheets of plywood of various widths laying around for a while. I would like to skin the 2x4 frame, and don't see a reason why not to use the existing stand instead of starting from scratch. Plus, the stand has a part running up the middle back with metal brackets to hold a light fixture hanger. So that is a plus.

Anyway here is the idea. The LEDs that I have to go over it are white, and I'm thinking my stand shall be too. I'd like to do molding that will hide base of the tank (because it is black) and maybe something fancy up the corner edges. The tank will probably go in the corner, but I'd like to design it to be up against a wall flat anyway incase I want to put it somewhere else in the future. So I'll likely be skinning 3 sides, and leaving the back alone. The front side of the stand I would like to have a large cabinet door, but I am open to ideas, because I am no cabinet builder.

I'm not experienced with this sort of thing, so I'm hoping some of you have some tips and tricks up your sleeve. I'll mostly be winging it, working in a makeshift workspace with a small circular saw. I do have some random tools I can get my hands on, like a nifty saw that cuts 2x4's/molding perfectly, and random other tools.

Also, when I'm done, I assume I would just paint it white, and then maybe another finishing coat of some sort over that? Like I said, I'm inexperienced, just simply not interested in shelling out 100's for a stand right now. I think I can make something work.

I'm just thinking about things like nail heads showing, how to do the door to access the inside of the stand, stuff like that. I might be missing the more complicated aspects at first.

Anyone with any advice, let's here it. I'd appreciate it.

Thanks,
Josh
 
Josh...check out my 93 cube build thread. It was a basic 2x4 stand that I skinned and made a matching canopy. Worked out pretty **** good even if I do say so myself.
 
wow Jeff, the step by step pictures speak 1,000 words!

I'm way more confident that I can do this now. That is exactly the look I'm going for. I might even just start from scratch and use your build as a template.

was it difficult to hinge the door properly?

It looks like you used small nails for the trim and the result is pretty outstanding. I was hoping to get away with liquid nails or wood glue, but it might be less trouble to just use the nails.

Thanks man!
 
It's pretty easy to do really. I used liquid nails in a lot of places. In others just brad nails to hold pieces in place. The door wasn't hinged...it was completely removable.
 
oooh yeah I was a little confused about that part but reading over a second time I see that. I'm going to see about having mine swing open, or if I want to go the same route you did. thanks
 
I gotta say...having it removable was a HUGE bonus!! Made access very easy and I didn't have to worry as much about how things would fit in and out. Almost the entire front was removable. If you have 2 side access...I would make both removable.
 
Think you could snap a pic (or post a link) of what you used to keep the door in place? No rush, I might not even start this project for a week.
 
Well I don't have it any longer but basically, I put large dowels in the bottom corners, drilled matching receiving holes in the frame. That held the bottom in place and the top was held in place by door magnets.
 
Any more detailed build threads or advice for a novice before I get started today?
 
yesterday I was able to borrow a sweet makita miter saw and get most of my 2x4's cut. Learning as I go, never occurred to me that I would have to compensate for the width of the blade (if that was the reason my first cuts did not come out exactly the same). But instead of making marks where I needed to cut, I laid the first piece I cut for each length on top of the one I was cutting and lined them up with the saw blade. By doing this, I was able to get them to matching lengths. I still need to cut the corner pieces that determine the height of the stand. I'm debating how high I want it. I like being able to view my shorter tanks from the couch/recliner, but when people come over they have to bend down.

The tank is 12" tall so I'm thinking a good height for the stand would be somewhere around 36-40".

As far as assembling the frame, I'm thinking metal brackets on the inside would be the easiest. Then I can still put in a few longer screws as well because I have seen how brackets can come loose and 2x4's can turn (on a DIY stand that came with a 29 gallon tank that I have)

Then it's on to the ply. all of the pieces that I have are 24" wide. The stand that I'm building is about 25" wide. I guess that the molding would hide it, But I have a feeling I'm going to be buying new wood anyway. I guess 1/4" is too thin. I don't know. I'm wingin' it.
 
Wainscott works great for that type os project. You can get a 4x8 sheet for around $20 and some trim for the top and botton and you are done. I did mine for the Biocube, total cost $45 including paint.
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Jarney;889972 wrote: Wainscott works great for that type os project. You can get a 4x8 sheet for around $20 and some trim for the top and botton and you are done. I did mine for the Biocube, total cost $45 including paint.

Lol I'm In my car at the home depot.. Just walked out with only two 8' 2x4's, a box of long screws, a packet of short ones, (8x) 2" corner brackets, and (8x) 3" mending plates just to finish the 2x4 frame. It was $29 and change. Idk about a $45 project here, you must be a smarter shopper than me.
heathlindner25;889975 wrote: lets see some pics

Soon
 
Josh....my 93 cube stand was skinned in 5.2mm birch sanded plywood...no problems. Easy to work with, fairly inexpensive. Also...I wouldn't use anything metal on the inside to secure or attach anything together. They will rust out in very short order. You should "pocket" screw everything together. One of the strongest screw bonds you will find. You don't need a jig to do it either...I didn't have one on the 93 build. Just start a 3/8" drill bit straight in to the wood about an inch from the end...once it bites, angle it at about 45 degrees to the end of the board and go about a 1/2 inch deep....then you've got a "pocket". It's so simple but more importantly, it's strong and clean looking. You'll be able to do butt ends this way and save on space. If you need any pointers...feel free to come on over and I'll give you directions. You can even bring the wood over and we can put it together in my garage.
 
Thanks Jeff. I didn't even think about the metal rusting out. I saw them on a DIY stand that I got with a 29g and thought it would be fine, but when I think about it, I've seen a lot of rusted hinges etc. in tank stands. I was really only going to use them to hold it together before I use the longer screws. You make a good point though, and that's $10 back to go into ply. Actually now that I think about it, I bought a deadbolt didn't end up needing it and neve took it back. That's another $30 :).

I appreciate the offer! That is very generous. I'd probably be wise to take you up on that. I do want to "do it myself" though. I'm glad the offer is on the table though, in case I get frustrated or want to give up, or whatever.

I built a pretty sweet birdhouse one time. I got this! Lol!
 
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