skinning a 2x4 stand

I could just put another board the height of the stand inside each corner. Surely that would make it sturdy enough. It'd be pretty heavy, but sturdy. It's only a 30 gallon tank. If I can't do this then it's safe to say I can't build anything that is not a birdhouse :/

Edit:
grouper therapy;891413 wrote: :up:No need it appears . You look like you have it whipped to me! looks good:up: When you skin it the plywood will bond all the 2x's together
No worries either way just let me know.

Just doesn't feel sturdy yet
 
Well, that shouldn't be very hard at all. At least it is level!

1/2" oak is cheap and it looks good. Any reason why I shouldn't go with that?

Edit: Scratch that, I meant 1/4". It's under $30. The 3/4" is about $50

Edit: When I think about it, $20 difference isn't that bad. I should probably go with that. Makes it easier that I have at least $50 worth of stuff to return (unopened deadbolt, etc)
 
grouper therapy;891427 wrote: definitely 3/4" for the difference

+1. That will give you support and stop it from racking. 1/4 flexes too much.


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My 227 is a 2x4 stand. http://www.atlantareefclub.org/forums/showthread.php?t=72836">http://www.atlantareefclub.org/forums/showthread.php?t=72836</a>

You can check it out.
 
bruce 1;891478 wrote: My 227 is a 2x4 stand. http://www.atlantareefclub.org/forums/showthread.php?t=72836">http://www.atlantareefclub.org/forums/showthread.php?t=72836</a>

You can check it out.[/QUOTE]

Now THAT is a nice 2x4 stand!!!
 
I finished the frame, a few more screws in the right places and it became VERY STURDY!! Ended up drilling down through the top with a spade bit to position screws going straight down into the corner boards. That way I was able to avoid the screws that were in the way of the diagonal screws in the corner pockets. I just replaced those with shorter screws.

It is perfectly level!!!!:yay::up::thumbs::thumbs::thumbs: and the height is exactly what I was going for. The stand is 39" tall, and the top of the tank is 51" off the ground. You can see in through the glass from sitting on the couch, standing (a few feet back) and if you walk up to the tank you can look down through the top.

Overall I am VERY PLEASED and really starting to see this come together!! I was about ready to give up before.. I didn't anticipate having problems with just the frame. With that behind me, skinning it will be a breeze, and well, I'll figure out the moulding/trim as I go.

:photo: comin' up


bruce 1;891652 wrote: Thank you. They are very easy to build.
Whatever you say, lol! Easy for you!!
 
Thanks. This project has inspired me to fix up the whole basement. We will see how that goes. I'm back in with my parents (lucky, really) in the rooms that I grew up in. The least I can do is fix all the damage I caused in here growing up/ as a teenager! I knew I could patch/paint the walls (did the bedroom already), but if I build a fish tank stand, then I can replace all the baseboards, door trim, etc. Been putting it off way too long and started thinking that spending $ to build a tank stand is silly when I could be fixing up the place. So that is next on my "do it yourself" list. Then they won't call my space "the dungeon" any more

Just some thoughts I had while I was looking at trim today. I got my ply, went with 3/4" pine (guy talked me out of oak when I told him what I was doing). It really does have 2 decent faces, 1 really good one, the edges are good... saved $20. IDK if I should regret not going with oak or not. well I can say so far the wood is %100 pine.

Just sat the boards he cut for me up against the tank and the dimensions are OK. with trim, it will work for sure.

I guess I should just put screws where the trim will be around the edge of each board? Maybe 4 up each side and 3 across the top and bottom?

snapped a pic of the wood (boards are just sitting there). Gotta cut out the door "frame" from the front side, and have a good piece left over for the door/removable side.

Edit:
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Edit: only problem is, the ply is not flat! hope it straightens out when I screw it in.
 
Are you painting the stand? I would crew the plywood on from the inside.2" screws will work. BTW excellent, mature thinking in regards fixing up your parents place.Got my respect.
 
grouper therapy;891987 wrote: Are you painting the stand? I would crew the plywood on from the inside.2" screws will work. BTW excellent, mature thinking in regards fixing up your parents place.Got my respect.
Thanks. I didn't think about screwing it on from the inside. It just seems like it would be more difficult to do without the ply moving around on me. Plus, if i can put some weight on it and go in from the outside, it would be more flush. I do have 2 clamps. I'll have to think about that. The trim would hide the screw heads anyway, I could even sink them a little bit and fill over them if needed.

I am going to paint it. I was actually just thinking about that, should I go ahead and put a coat on the 2x4 frame before I skin it? Just in case water gets in there and causes problems (maybe mold?)

Then, by that logic, I would need to go ahead and paint the inside face of the ply as well. Not a finishing coat, just something to prevent water damage. Good idea?

The reason I decided to even build this stand is because I want a white stand, that covers the black base of the tank. The LED's that will hang over the tank are white as well. Plus I just like the look of a white stand over black, and a decent stain finish is pretty much out if the question for me at this point.;)
 
If the ply is warped, which most pine will be, I would screw from the outside. You always want to go through the softer wood first and secure it to the harder wood. 15 years of finished carpentry experience speaking here. Make sure if you are painting, which I assume you are going with the pine, that you put a good primer coat on everything then sand it all down. With the ply you might need two coats of primer, sanding after each. You are doing a great job, I think you will be able to dance on that stand when done, it look very strong/ sturdy.
 
NHannon8;891995 wrote: If the ply is warped, which most pine will be, I would screw from the outside. You always want to go through the softer wood first and secure it to the harder wood. 15 years of finished carpentry experience speaking here. Make sure if you are painting, which I assume you are going with the pine, that you put a good primer coat on everything then sand it all down. With the ply you might need two coats of primer, sanding after each. You are doing a great job, I think you will be able to dance on that stand when done, it look very strong/ sturdy.
Please explain.
 
Grouper, the softer wood is always the least dense and therefore the least stable material. The ability for the fastener to work is dependent on how much surface area is in contact with the fastener, whether it be a screw or nail, and the more dense the more contact. The head of the fastener, screw or nail, will hold the less stable material more effectively than the pointed end. I have seen plywood pull off of a nail or screw that is driven the opposite way through the 2x4 in less than a week. After going back and correctly fastening it, it has gone years without moving. I know this probably doesn't explain your questions completely, but it is one of those things that is passed down from Master Carpenter to Apprentice for as long as finished carpentry has been around. I can't count the number of times my Master Carpenter drilled this into my head while I apprenticed for 5 years with him.
 
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