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loving the ideas so far, looking forward to the see what happens next and when.
Thinking big...
- Thread starter giulianom
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Here are the pictures I tried to upload earlier...
Outside, chimney cutting into the roof line.
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Bottom of chimney. It starts right where the deck ends...
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If I get rid of the chimney, I can extend the deck towards the end of the house.
And, make a fish room underneath it...
I did some demolition already... knocked out a brick or two to take a look inside:
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It's basically completely hollow. Not even any insulation around the stack piping. That's wall insulation.
Outside, chimney cutting into the roof line.
Bottom of chimney. It starts right where the deck ends...
If I get rid of the chimney, I can extend the deck towards the end of the house.
And, make a fish room underneath it...
I did some demolition already... knocked out a brick or two to take a look inside:
It's basically completely hollow. Not even any insulation around the stack piping. That's wall insulation.
Just out of curiosity, I adjusted things to show what the tank would look like if the stand was 48" tall instead of 36" tall.
The answer is: Verra tall.
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The ceiling line is 8' from the floor - that's the dotted line.
With a 48" high stand, there's less than 18" above the tank.
I don't know about you, but for me that would be a tight squeeze.. even if I was laying down on top of the tank.
The answer is: Verra tall.
The ceiling line is 8' from the floor - that's the dotted line.
With a 48" high stand, there's less than 18" above the tank.
I don't know about you, but for me that would be a tight squeeze.. even if I was laying down on top of the tank.
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i have played with stand heights before and 40" work best for me, taller than standard and not that tall that it looks weird and hit the ceiling?
This is the stand David designed for my 220. It's 40" tall and it's completely open on one side. I added a 3rd piece of plywood across the span.
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I did the best I could to set a little more than 2 tons on it and there was no flex or sag.
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Assembly in the room would be pretty easy and the cost would be well under $200.
I did the best I could to set a little more than 2 tons on it and there was no flex or sag.
Assembly in the room would be pretty easy and the cost would be well under $200.
Oh, I see - you used LVL (laminated) beams.
I used a few of those to reinforce my existing joists underneath the 150 gallon.
It runs parallel to the joists, so I ended up sistering three joists, and doubled up the header.
What I'll probably do is see if I can do the load calculations and simulate the load.
I have to do the math...
I used a few of those to reinforce my existing joists underneath the 150 gallon.
It runs parallel to the joists, so I ended up sistering three joists, and doubled up the header.
What I'll probably do is see if I can do the load calculations and simulate the load.
I have to do the math...
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Why the space underneath? Are you not doing a sump room?
Probably yes on the sump room... also probably going to be doing a few closed loops under the tank...
I'm thinking maybe two DC 12000 pumps, variable speed...
Also, here's an interesting post on RC for a stand that's a similar size.
What I find interesting is that it's actually three stands, bolted together.
600 Gallons is just about 5000 pounds, and that configuration was estimated at 10,000 pounds before failure.
Here's an interesting thread elsewhere where someone built an external shed underneath their deck.
http://panofish.net/building-a-shed-under-a-deck/">http://panofish.net/building-a-shed-under-a-deck/</a>
I figure I could do something similar - rebuild the deck to be larger, maybe take out the chimney..
And put the fish room underneath the deck, maybe put some corrugated roofing on the underside of the deck.
http://panofish.net/building-a-shed-under-a-deck/">http://panofish.net/building-a-shed-under-a-deck/</a>
I figure I could do something similar - rebuild the deck to be larger, maybe take out the chimney..
And put the fish room underneath the deck, maybe put some corrugated roofing on the underside of the deck.
I built a shed under my deck but it's not climate controlled. In the summer it's at or above ambient and winter it's slightly above.
I was thinking of something similar, but with insulation in the walls, and maybe a false ceiling underneath the sheet metal "roof", also insulated.
I do have a gas line running out that direction for the fireplace, perhaps I could redirect it to feed one of those gas-fed garage heaters.
CO2... you'd also need a window ac unit or one hell of a chiller. But the CO2 when it's cold would be a big problem with a gas heater in a confined space. All electric would be better.
Electric garage heaters could work...
I was thinking of chillers... I know someone that has an external chiller outside his house. I don't think I'd need something that elaborate, but I could definitely run a chiller that vents to the outside.
GiulianoM;1080139 wrote: Here are the pictures I tried to upload earlier...
Outside, chimney cutting into the roof line.
alt="" />
Bottom of chimney. It starts right where the deck ends...
alt="" />
If I get rid of the chimney, I can extend the deck towards the end of the house.
And, make a fish room underneath it...
I did some demolition already... knocked out a brick or two to take a look inside:
alt="" />
It's basically completely hollow. Not even any insulation around the stack piping. That's wall insulation.
Good start lol
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I'd almost guarantee they don't. No biggie though just sister some on to the side.
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Joist or rafters or both?
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I'd almost guarantee they don't.
