Thoughts on UV?

During the data conversion we couldn't fix certain things. So some links, formatting and images can be messed up.
When I get a chance I'll clean that thread up and resticky it.

When I attempted to renew my membership, it apparently tried to set up/steer me back to my Paypal account, which I haven't used in a while (pw...? ;)
Am I correct that Paypal is now required for membership payment?
If so, was that due to the application, or a BOD decision? Just curious, thx
 
The only other one we've had is Stripe and they've been updating their API and it's causing issues with XF. We're waiting on a fix.

With PayPal you should just be able to log in with you're current account or use a CC without logging in.
 
The only other one we've had is Stripe and they've been updating their API and it's causing issues with XF. We're waiting on a fix.

With PayPal you should just be able to log in with you're current account or use a CC without logging in.

I'll try it again tonight, but this weekend I entered a CC and it still prompted for ppal.
I may have missed something...

(btw, thx for all of the work on the new site, to all involved. It's been long overdue, as you know)
 
As said, UV's are great and useful when sized and run properly. Most people get ones that are way to small and run way to much water through them making them pretty much useless. I also see a lot of UV's either on the main return line getting too much flow, or short cycling in the sump where its tapped off the return and goes back to the sump then right back to the UV.

If you want one for algea/diatom control, dont bother. Fix why you have algea first.

If you want it for parasite and infection control, make sure its sized right. I simply would not bother with anything under 40w because its kill ich flow is around 100 GPH and I wouldnt use it for anything larger than 150 gallon tank. For example my 540g system has a 150w UV that must be run at 450 GPH or less to kill ich. Thats barely turning over the tank once an hour, which isnt much.

It is a fantastic tool to use, and I would not run a tank without one. But if its not done right, its just expensive and useless.

Also can someone resticky the UV sizing thread? Thats a great one.
 
Anit is working on re-stickying the UV thread...

Meanwhile, from Aqua Ultraviolet's web site-

"Reef Tanks -A UV rated in the 30,000-45,000 columns is ideal for the reef environment .UV’s rated
at higher kill rates will destroy the planktonic food supply for the reef.
Marine Fish Tanks (No reef or live rock). A UV rated in the 75,000 to 90,000 columns will be the most
effective at controlling fish disease.
All UV dosages are calculated at end of lamp life (14 months)"

https://www.aquaultraviolet.com/dru.../brochures/UV Charts Salt and Fresh Water.pdf
 
I'm thinking it may be because the 8, 40 & 80 watt models use an older design (lower pressure) bulb...?
 
Not exactly linear, ...which makes me question their numbers.

View attachment 1408

Its not linear because the bulb wattage doesnt directly match output and the size of the reaction chamber is different which effects the amount of water and time the water is in the UV. Its also very different brand to brand. What is linear is the flow vs radiation rates for each individual UV.

Also the brand of bulb can make a big difference, but unlike most reef lighting no one has tested the output of off brand bulbs for UV's to see if they even come close to matching the name brand ones.
 
These are all Aqua UV sterilizers/from their sizing chart link, attached above.

Here's a plot of irradiance vs tank size. The above graph was watts vs tank size.

(& surely they didn't publish results from single measurements/data points...?)

1544553842397.png
 
When it comes to any kind of filter or reactor for this hobby, never even look at the "rated for x size tank" it ALWAYS wrong.

Look at the flow rate for the radiation rate you want and pick a size that will work for you. I like to have them turnover the tank volume at least once every 2 hours, once an hour is better.

For example your system is 300 gallons, you want to turn the water over at a min of 150 GPH (ideally 300 GPH) To kill ich at that flow rate you would need a 57w UV for the minimum, and a dual 57w for ideal flow.
 
I graphed the data from Aqua UV's site.
My point above was that, knowing how UV kills, it should scale linearly, especially irradiance vs gallons. It does not & there is a reason (one I may have missed). That is all.
FWIW-The sizing chart indicates that a 40 watt unit running at 967 gph would meet the requirements for a 300 gallon tank, and that's at the end of bulb life efficacy of 90,000uWsec/cm^2.
(967 gph is a 3.22 x's per hour turnover rate for 300 gallon tank)
 
I have their 57 watt classic unit. I'm probably only running 200gph through it and the light is only on from 9am to 9pm.

Do you think I should try and up the flow?
 
I've stickied the thread and did a quick clean up of the 1st post. Most of the links are not active or to a dead domain.
 
I have their 57 watt classic unit. I'm probably only running 200gph through it and the light is only on from 9am to 9pm.

Do you think I should try and up the flow?

According to the Aqua UV sizing chart, you could go up to 1,066 gph and still be above 90,000uW/cm^2, at the end of lamp life (14 months old).
 
Are we sure those numbers are accurate. Just because they posted them as data doesn’t make them truly accurate. 1066 gph seems wayyyy to high of a flow rate for a small 57watt UV (I believe it’s 24” or 30” long). Now if it was a long 48” Uv tube with that rate I think it would kill most bacterial, viral, ich ect with the longer dwell time. But a short run of 25” or so past the Uv light that quickly won’t do much imo.
 
I know, that's a lot of flow and I'm not going to put in a dedicated pump for it. I'm feeding off a manifold I already have enough pumps in the sump.
 
Are we sure those numbers are accurate. Just because they posted them as data doesn’t make them truly accurate. 1066 gph seems wayyyy to high of a flow rate for a small 57watt UV (I believe it’s 24” or 30” long). Now if it was a long 48” Uv tube with that rate I think it would kill most bacterial, viral, ich ect with the longer dwell time. But a short run of 25” or so past the Uv light that quickly won’t do much imo.

Based on the unit dimensions posted, I calculated volume of the sterilizer at approximately 0.3 gal. and the flow rate is 0.33 gal per second. (1,066gal/hr)
The unit chamber is almost 12 inches long and diameter is 2 inches. Where,
L=12
d=2
Area=pi*d
Volume=L*A

That would give a residence time of approximately 1 sec. in the UV chamber, which confirms the irradiance dosage figure would be accurate at 90,000uWsec/cm^2
(at the end of bulb life, 14 months old)
The initial irradiance of a new bulb would be much higher, approximately double, (exceeding 180,000uWsec/cm^3) according to some articles I read.
Aqua UV states that the ideal irradiance is 30, 000-45,000 in a reef and 75,000-90,000uW/cm^3 for fish only tanks.
 
FWIW-The sizing chart indicates that a 40 watt unit running at 967 gph would meet the requirements for a 300 gallon tank, and that's at the end of bulb life efficacy of 90,000uWsec/cm^2.
(967 gph is a 3.22 x's per hour turnover rate for 300 gallon tank)

And that is where sizing a UV gets you. 90,000 might be the top of the table, but it wont kill ich. You need to get to 336,000 uWs/cm2 to kill ich, so you will want to take 967 * (90/336) which is 259 GPH for the 40w.

They state that 75k to 90k is idea for reefs because over that will start to kill off beneficial things like pods, but if you have a good fuge this is a sacrifice thats not a big deal. Also the reason why you dont want your entire tank return going through the UV.

Also if you notice the difference between the flow rates for the 40w and the 57w is not very much. This is because while the 57 has a high wattage, the bulb is half the length of the 40w.
 
I was curious about how Aqua UV designed the housings, so divided the wattage of each unit by it's length. Here's what I got-
8W= 0.69W/inch
15W=1.29W/inch
25W=1.43W/inch
40W=1.19W/inch
57W=3.26W/inch

So, it appears the 57 watt, which has just a 17.5 inch long chamber, works kind of like the sledge hammer of the bunch.
The 15, 25 & 40 watt models deliver 1.3 watts/inch on average.
For the 57 watt model, the water is exposed to about 2.5x's the watts/inch as the 15, 25 & 40 watt models. The 8 Watt is about half of those 3 and just 21% of the 57 watt.
 
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