Yet another MH bulb question.

[jmaneyapanda]

Skriz;232241 wrote: The "nipple" is simply the entry point for when they inject the halides in to the arc tube. It has no bearing on anything other than being a "belly button" for the bulb.

I thought eaxctly the same until I was told the info I mentioned earlier. It does make an imperfection in the glass tube, where the liquid could pool and impair firing. That does seem quite logical to me for a rationale to have the nipple above horizon.

By the way, This fell out of your wallet at the last meeting. I know its yours because the back said "Dear Raj, I know you said you will always love me. But please read my shirt. Love, mom".

alt="" />

 

[nickskains]

Hahahaahaha!!!

 

[FutureInterest]

Quick update:

The halide is performing much better now. Perhaps it was some odd output during the "break in" period? The par actually increased by 100-150 across the board and corals are coloring up again and most importantly nothing is getting burned. Wierd.

 

[william1]

I have the same light. Its on a 60 cube frag tank Im building. I have not finished it yet but I think I can finish it soon now. I fired up my light which the bulb is about 18 inches from the water and its brilliant over the tank and I cant wait. Do you have any pics?

 

[kwl1763]

These bulbs do take some burn in time and you won't get the same PAR as with many other bulbs. The color is great though so it just depends what you want. I had them on my 450 for a while and they were so much less par that I switched back to XM 10ks because I didn't want to have to move up from my 250W.

 

[ouling]

The CoralVue 10-20k 400w bulbs are suppose to be extremely bright on a M40 or M81 ballast. I also tried the 14k ebay bulbs and they're also really really gangsta. But the EVC 10k (yellow) are by far the best when it comes to PAR readings.

But my experience with 400w bulbs are that they will "break in" in less than 10 hours, and they get to their max at less than a week.

 

[acroholic]

FutureInterest;234991 wrote: Quick update:

The halide is performing much better now. Perhaps it was some odd output during the "break in" period? The par actually increased by 100-150 across the board and corals are coloring up again and most importantly nothing is getting burned. Wierd.

So you are sticking with Halides on the frag tank for right now? No T5s?
Dave

 

[dannybradley]

I'm a little late in this thread, but-

According to Dana Riddle, a coral's defense against excess UV is producing a green pigment, not brown. The green pigment eventually replaces the other pigments.

I don't know if this disproves the UV idea, because a of blending red and green do make brown.