240gal build, buford

Gwhiz;158154 wrote: The rail cuts can all be made on a table saw or on a router table. Panels can be raised on a TS as well, but you're obviously limited to a straight profile.

Yah, I'll just have to see I suppose.. Like you said, it will be kinda plain/square looking.. That may be better then a cheaper frame type door with 1/4 plywood in the center.. I have a quarter round router bit, maby I'll pick one up that has a step on the innter edge to give it more of an authentic look if I decied to do it..
 
I have a set of router bits (three bits) for making raised panel doors if you'd like to borrow them. I'm at Exit #111 and I-85.
 
grimreefer;158167 wrote: I have a set of router bits (three bits) for making raised panel doors if you'd like to borrow them. I'm at Exit #111 and I-85.

That sound very tempting.. I work down on sugarloaf and live up 985 buford exit, so if I'm not mistaken exit 111 is suwannee.. Very close.. Do you have a picture of the profile of the bits so I can get an idea of what they look like.. I guess one would be to shape the center panel, one to shape the inside rails and one to shape the of the top and bottom cross rails (the reverse profile of the second bit)?
 
obelix;158199 wrote: That sound very tempting.. I work down on sugarloaf and live up 985 buford exit, so if I'm not mistaken exit 111 is suwannee.. Very close.. Do you have a picture of the profile of the bits so I can get an idea of what they look like.. I guess one would be to shape the center panel, one to shape the inside rails and one to shape the of the top and bottom cross rails (the reverse profile of the second bit)?

Bingo.
 
obelix, I'm also in Sugar Hill. Give me a call if you ever need help moving that monstrous tank (or for any other reason). Also, I'd like to check out the tank once you've got it set up!
 
As for lighting.... What are the dimensions of the tank? I know you said it was 8' long but how deep and tall is it? Just looking at it, I would say 4 250W hqi MH's with VHO for color but I kind of like to go a little more than less on lighting. Also I don't like to have MH's over cross-braces, even glass ones. If the out side cross braces weren't there I would say 2 Lunenarc 3 reflectors with a bunch of T5's would give you nice lighting for a mixed reef. Lighting is going to be one of the most expensive things you will buy for your tank and one of the most expensive things for you to keep running. One other option is to look into LED, like Solaris I4, but these will cost you a mint, but they will save you on bulb replacement, power usage, and you will likely not need a chiller.
 
grimreefer;158215 wrote: Here they are.


Yes, very nice, I would think those would do nicely.. I'll send you a PM when I'm ready to start on the doors...
 
welcome to the arc...

Yeap those glasscages overflows suck,,, wish someone had told me before i spent $60 on them.. i had to route the teeth wider, sill sucks with overflow...im actually planning on just routing the teeth off to keep up with overflow... p.s i wouldnt use the glass covers... i have more then enough cheato for you if you want..
 
Keep that in mind for me as well Slayer, if you don't mind. I am next on the list for a 240 from glasscages. Any other advice you or anyone else can give about them. I am doing another freshwater tank, but I want to get a reef ready system for the clean look.
 
Got a little more done tonight.. Had a funeral to go to last night.. Nothing spectacular, took my little girl to ballet so I only had a little while to work on it.. Just got the bottom for the sump to set on cut and installed and the platform for the aquarium to set on (basically the top and bottom).. However, I'm debating on weather or not to start priming the inside now, just to make it a little less messy vs after putting on the face plate and oak sides..
 
Worked on it some more.. I was able to complete the stand with the exception of the trim and the doors.. Haven't even started on the canopy yet...
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Have you thought about putting doors on the sides to allow access ? Great for taking a sump in or out!
 
discusdave;159625 wrote: Have you thought about putting doors on the sides to allow access ? Great for taking a sump in or out!


great words of advice--I wish mine had side access doors--we had to drain like 80% of water and take out a main brace to put my sump under my tank
 
The sump will fit in through the front, with this design, one of the reasons I designed the front the way I did.. No need for side access.. I though about doing the side access, if not, but just for more access to things inside the stand, but I get a lot more structual strength with the 3/4 full plywood sides..
 
Worked on it some more.. Started to trim the main cabinet, need to pick up a few more plynth blocks and rosettets before I can finish that up.. You can see the start on the canopy, I am striving to make it light, so no 2x4's or 2x6's here.. Also note the pictures stand on this post vs the stand about 4 posts up, you will notice that on the first picture the sump is in and on this one the sump is out, I know it doesn't look like the sump will come in and out from the pictures of the previous posts, but it does...

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obelix;159655 wrote: The sump will fit in through the front, with this design, one of the reasons I designed the front the way I did.. No need for side access.. I though about doing the side access, if not, but just for more access to things inside the stand, but I get a lot more structual strength with the 3/4 full plywood sides..

I thought the side access doors were a great idea on my Oceanic Tech Series 120 gallon tank, then I decided to run all my equipment behind the wall behind the tank, so I have no equipment under the stand at all.

Your stand looks great.
Dave
 
Canopy is built.. Still have to put a top on it and trim it out.. This has been a lot of work so far and I'm ready for it to be over with.. With not real professional tools, just a router, drill, nail gun and some saws, has made this pretty greuling..


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