As Promised 180 build thread

seedless reefer

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And so it begins.........

Arrangements have been made for me to pick up the 180 on Sunday but before the tank came to the house I wanted to get a jump on things so I had as little work to do as possible so I started on things which would be ready by D-Day.

<u>The Sump</u></em>

The sump is a used 50 Gallon. I pseudo-copied Marc Levenson's (Melev) super sump but I was worried that it just wouldn't work right. Low and behold he made an appearance on the boards and him and I exchanged PM's for a while and now I feel better that the design is solid.

This is the 4th or 5th sump that I have built and each one has worked better than the previous one but the jury is still out on this one.

Make sure that the tank is level before installing your baffles. I had to jack up the right side about an 1" to get it level.

http://216.77.188.54/coDataImages/p/Groups/404/404022/folders/299338/2389206sump2.JPG" alt="" />

One Fugly 50 Gallon tank!

Before I started construction, I knew that I wanted to raise my skimmer higher than where it is sitting in my current sump.

First order of business was to create a stand for the skimmer to sit on so I cut the baffle, cut a stand member and affixed the two together.

When bonding acrylic to acrylic you should use Weld-on but I just used plain old super glue and then siliconed both sides.

I only added one part of the stand because if I had added both there would have been no way to get the completed assembly into the sump.

[IMG]http://216.77.188.54/coDataImages/p/Groups/404/404022/folders/299338/2389205sump1.JPG" alt="" />

Next I took that assembly and put it into sump and positioned it where I wanted it and proceeded to square up the baffle side to side. Luckily, the attached stand part put the baffle level up and down.

[IMG]http://216.77.188.54/coDataImages/p/Groups/404/404022/folders/299338/2389208sump4.JPG" alt="" />

Looking at what I did I realized that by adding the second part of the stand, I would create a box under the skimmer that would trap water and gunk and would get no water movement at all so I pulled the assembly out, took a saw and took 1" off of the stand piece. When I cut the second part I will cut it 1" shorter before I put it in place.

I put the assembly back and re-squared it and secured it in place.

Next I added the piece of acrylic that would separate the return area from the refugium. The refugium will be drained via a bulkhead/stand pipe similar to the design Melev used on his Super Sump.

This panel will be the left side of the fuge and the tank wall will be the right.

Notice I drilled a hole and inserted a bulkhead about 3 inches up from the bottom in the center of the panel. Also, note this panel goes all the way to the top of the tank. This is the part that had me worried. More on this in a bit.

The baffles are made from acrylic and the tank is glass. Remember you can't bond acrylic to glass using silicone and expect the baffle to stay in place with water creating pressure against it.

Instead, the silicone has to act as a wedge which will hold the baffle in place. You must ensure that the bead is thick enough to hold the baffle nice and secure!

[IMG]http://216.77.188.54/coDataImages/p/Groups/404/404022/folders/299338/2389209sump5.JPG" alt="" />

Now you can see I have defined the three sections of the sump.

In the past, the sumps I have built have the return on the end like this:

Skimmer -----> Refugium ------> Return

however, This sump is set up with the return in the middle like this:

Skimmer -----> Return <------ Refugium

The only baffles on this sump will be between the skimmer and the return.
With the skimmer stand assembly and the refugium panel in place I then went to work on the baffle/bubble trap between the skimmer stand and the return.

Space between the assembly and the baffle is 1 1/4". 1" is the minimum according to Melev. I raised the baffle using my torpedo level which has a groove in it that holds acrylic perfectly!

Using blue painters tape, blocks and clamps I put the piece where I wanted it and secured it in place.
[IMG]http://216.77.188.54/coDataImages/p/Groups/404/404022/folders/299338/2389214sump9.JPG" alt="" />

Here is the handy torpedo level I use:
[IMG]http://216.77.188.54/coDataImages/p/Groups/404/404022/folders/299338/2389207sump3.JPG" alt="" />

Next I added the second part of the stand and secured it in place as well.
[IMG]http://216.77.188.54/coDataImages/p/Groups/404/404022/folders/299338/2389213sump10.JPG" alt="" />

When you are building a sump you end up using a lot of strange things to hold parts and pieces in place. Here, this box of carbon fit the bill perfectly.

In the past, I have used cigarette packs, wood shims, blocks of all sorts and a myriad of other useful things. Whatever gets you to where your going is ok!

This will now raise my skimmer 6" out of the water.

Ok back to the refugium panel.

[IMG]http://216.77.188.54/coDataImages/p/Groups/404/404022/folders/299338/2389209sump5.JPG" alt="" />
You can see that this will be the left side of the refugium. Remember, that the acrylic goes all the way to the top of the tank.

You can see where I drilled a hole and added a bulkhead about 3" up in the middle of the panel.

Next I added a 1" 90 pointing up in the refugium and one pointing down in the return.

The questions for Marc is would it flow enough water? and would it be noisy?

Marc assured me that there would be plenty of flow and that the noise should not even be noticeable.

I felt better because he is the master when it comes to sumps!
[IMG]http://216.77.188.54/coDataImages/p/Groups/404/404022/folders/299338/2389210sump6.JPG" alt="" />
90 Pointing up. To this I will add a 1" pipe which will stop about 2" from the top and add a screen to keep snails and algae out of the drain.

This may have to be redesigned after I fire this thing up and see what it does/doesn't do.

I left room at the top of the sump which gives me a water volume of 15 or so gallons for overflow if the return pump goes out. I will have to ensure that I calculate the siphon breaks in the tank accordingly.

[B][I]<u>Sump Pitfalls</u></em>[/B]

Sometimes you can learn as much from what you do wrong as what you do right.

I made a careless mistake on the sump which I had to correct.

After I test fit the sump into the stand, I realized that there would not be enough clearance for the skimmer with a six inch stand.

This was stupid because I didn't measure beforehand. Instead, I assumed because the stand seemed so big it would just fit and I was wrong.

As a matter of fact I will not be able to utilize any form of stand because the clearance is so tight.

When I post the stand part you will see what I am talking about.
 
Linda Lee;290553 wrote: Good eye. Wanna buy it?

:)
LOL, I would love to have one but its not in the cards right now. Ya'll have some cool cars laying around though.
 
<u>Canopy</u></em>

The canopy was purchased with the stand. I did not make this canopy and the person that did had no way of knowing I would eventually own it, what I was going to install into it and the issues I would have with "fitment".

A long while back I bought some VHO's from DKelly knowing that one day I would be incorporating them into a new build. Dwight can attest to how long these have been laying around the house.

The canopy was so close to being right but it was wrong enough that installing the VHO's just wasn't going to work like I wanted so some thinking was required.

The setup I bought included 2 Super Blue VHO actinic bulbs, some ugly rusted out ballast and 4 water proof end caps but nothing to attach them in any manner to a canopy so I had to fabricate some brackets.

I dug around in my computer parts and came up with 4 expansion port covers and these became my new VHO mounting brackets.

Here you can see the bracket:

http://216.77.188.54/coDataImages/p/Groups/404/404022/folders/299340/2389239can3.JPG" alt="" />

I drilled 3 holes in the bracket with my step drill.

Two holes to affix the bracket to the frame of the canopy and one hole to affix the bracket to the threaded insert of the end cap.

After completing this, I put both VHO's and 2 SE reflectors in the canopy for a little test fit.

[IMG]http://216.77.188.54/coDataImages/p/Groups/404/404022/folders/299340/2389238can2.JPG" alt="" />

Some parts of the VHO's are covered by the reflectors but I am limited by the space I have in the canopy.

The solution was to bend out the tabs on the reflector a bit and pull them closer together with some type of thin line.

A third reflector will be added after I can afford it.

I mounted the VHO's and the 2 reflectors and started on the wiring.

The previous owner had the socket and the ballast connected with wire nuts covered with electrical tape and to me this was not the way to go about it.

I bought some male/female spade connectors and did it the right way.

These connectors cost a little more than the ones you get in a kit with the stripper/crimper but they are far superior.

[IMG]http://216.77.188.54/coDataImages/p/Groups/404/404022/folders/299340/2389240can5.JPG" alt="" />

The ends that connect provide a weather proof connection which I thought was great but they didn't take the other end into consideration.

Luckily, the end of this connector has a nice little "bowl" shape so a shot of silicone in there and the connection will stay dry as a bone and corrosion free!

As you can see I put all the wires into wire loom which I then secured to the canopy with loom clips.

I want no dangling wires anywhere near this tank. Everything will be tucked, hidden or tied to provide a nice clean look.

Lastly, I took the old rusty ballast sanded it and shot it a couple times with a rattle can.

It is still ugly but I attached it to the back of the canopy so it won't be seen and no one will be the wiser.

I wired up the VHO's, put it in looms and that is that.

[IMG]http://216.77.188.54/coDataImages/p/Groups/404/404022/folders/299340/2389242can4.JPG" alt="" />

Currently the stand has the 2 VHO's and 2 250w SE Halides for a total of 820 watts. Adding a third halide will bring it up to 1070 watts.

Future plans for this canopy will be the addition of LED moonlights, fans and the third halide.

I fired it up and it is bright and it is blue!
 
i noticed you said you filled the bowl where the wires are with silicon.. you know silicone conducts electricity right?? but only above a certain temperature.. so as long as your tank doesnt hit 973 F I think you will be ok.. but with those MH's you never know :)
 
<u>MH Ballast's</u></em>

The next part of this was going to be the stand but before I went to work on it I needed to get some things cleaned up before hand so I went to work on the MH ballasts which would reside in the stand.

I bought the DIY MH's from a member and wanted to clean them up a tad.

This is how they looked when I pulled them out of the closet:
http://216.77.188.54/coDataImages/p/Groups/404/404022/folders/299341/2389245bal.JPG" alt="" />

I liked the waterproof enclosures that he had put the ballast's in but the way they were wired didnt allow for the lid be closed and that just wouldn't do.
[IMG]http://216.77.188.54/coDataImages/p/Groups/404/404022/folders/299341/2389246bal3.JPG" alt="" />

Since I knew the lights worked when test fired I was unsure whether or not reversing the leads on the capacitor would cause the light no to fire so I only worked on one lead at a time and left the other one connected.

[IMG]http://216.77.188.54/coDataImages/p/Groups/404/404022/folders/299341/2389249bal6.JPG" alt="" />

The red wire you see used to come out of a hole in the back with the green wire. I disconected this wire first and brought it outside of the box and connected it back where it went.

I then disconnected the lead on the other side which connected to a wire inside of the box.

To get the lid to close I had to enlargen the hole in the back so I had enough room to pass two wires with spade clips past the red and green wire and the hole would now carry 4 wires.

I took out my trusty step drill after all the wires were out and opened up the hole.

When the opening was large enough I ran all the wires through one at a time and connected them where they needed to be. This was already a ton cleaner than before:

[IMG]http://216.77.188.54/coDataImages/p/Groups/404/404022/folders/299341/2389248bal5.JPG" alt="" />

You can see the bracket that the previous owner used to mount these in his stand.

Keeping with my desire to keep things clean, I went to work on this.

I unbolted the clamp from the L bracket and put the bracket in my parts can.

I used the clamp to affix the capacitor to the water proof box:
[IMG]http://216.77.188.54/coDataImages/p/Groups/404/404022/folders/299341/2389247bal4.JPG" alt="" />

With that complete the lid fit snug and everything ended up in a nice neat package.

Before this goes into service the leads on the capacitor will be heat shrinked to prevent corrosion.

[IMG]http://216.77.188.54/coDataImages/p/Groups/404/404022/folders/299341/2389250bal2.JPG" alt="" />

I have mentioned the step bit twice now for those of you who don't know what they are here it is:

[IMG]http://216.77.188.54/coDataImages/p/Groups/404/404022/folders/299341/2389252stepbit.JPG" alt="" />

It is a single drill bit that increases in size step by step.

Here is what it looks like on the drill:
[IMG]http://216.77.188.54/coDataImages/p/Groups/404/404022/folders/299341/2389251drill.JPG" alt="" />

If you are a man and don't have a set of these you MUST turn in your membership card at the door.

Now for a gratuitous shot that has nothing to do with this build:
[IMG]http://216.77.188.54/coDataImages/p/Groups/404/404022/folders/299341/2389244406.JPG" alt="" />

Chevy 406
Lunati Crank
Eagle Rods
Wiseco 10:5's
A very big Comp Solid
Comp lifters
Manley pushrods
Old school Camel hump heads..worked by Brogans in Houston
Crane extruded roller rockers
Holley Strip Dominator
Holley 830 CFM NASCAR
 
Fppp

I wanna put a ls series in my vette so bad. But I'm kinda after driveability as well. Looks good.
 
Not trying to hi jack the thread but I hope your sump is Acrylic. I made the fatal mistake of using a 29 gallon glass and put acrylic panels in, in using Melev's as a guide. I spent countless hours cutting and fitting to make a nice tight fit between the glass and acrylic, hardly any caulk needed. After my creation was completed I got it under my stand and filled it up everything worked perfectly. Several hours later I was sitting on the couch about 5 feet away when I heard a loud cracking noise. When I looked at the sump it had cracked from the top rim to the bottom. That was a valuable lession about thermal expansion differences between glass and acrylic. I ended up redoing the whole thing but ended up making a bracket that gave the baffles the ability to free slide up and down and left plenty of room for expansion and contraction.
 
Looks really good sofar, pics are great! I had a glass sump with acrylic baflles and never had a prob. Hopefully you wont have to buy a chiller :(
 
All of my sumps have been glass/acrylic with no problem also except not wedging the panels enough.

All of my baffles narrow so I dont put any undue pressure on the glass.
 
I'm just glad the floormats that I took out of the Sebring to be shampooed/vacuumed are being put to good use.

>
 
Seedless Reefer;290590 wrote: <u>MH Ballast's</u></em>
Now for a gratuitous shot that has nothing to do with this build:
http://216.77.188.54/coDataImages/p/Groups/404/404022/folders/299341/2389244406.JPG" alt="" />

[/QUOTE]

Sure it is part of the tank build I see your RO/DI unit...

Jason
 
This could be the return pump to the display...:confused2: [
http://216.77.188.54/coDataImages/p/Groups/404/404022/folders/299341/2389244406.JPG" alt="" />

[/QUOTE]
 
WILLIAM1;291018 wrote: This could be the return pump to the display...:confused2: [
http://216.77.188.54/coDataImages/p/Groups/404/404022/folders/299341/2389244406.JPG" alt="" />

[/QUOTE][/QUOTE]


Loren better have a biga** valve if it is! :lol2:
 
Looks almost identical to my garage. Same tool box, ro and brute on wheels. Blue engine next to a blue car. 390fe for my 67 galaxie 500 fastback. Yes you would smoke me, but what a cruiser. Hopping along for the tank build. (hopefully later on we'll get a chevy II build outta this too)
 
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