Build: 200 gallon frag system
- Thread starter danielll
- Start date
Here's a picture of an affected area once the bubble was scraped off. You can see the rubber underneath was perfectly fine,
I set up a dehumidifier so i can get the room extremely dry before i reapply liquid rubber, should help promote a more reliable curing this time.
also started working on the door for it. Due to the strange dimensions, i just have to build one. 3/4 plywood, will be backed by probably 2x4 to get it more rigid, and insulated.
Work area is a nightmare again, another trip to the dump coming
I set up a dehumidifier so i can get the room extremely dry before i reapply liquid rubber, should help promote a more reliable curing this time.
also started working on the door for it. Due to the strange dimensions, i just have to build one. 3/4 plywood, will be backed by probably 2x4 to get it more rigid, and insulated.
Work area is a nightmare again, another trip to the dump coming
Do you think putting a heater in the room will help with the curing process?
The dehumidifer has really brought the temp up to a nice warm temp. Dehumidifiers put out heat just by operation, so I don't think I will ever need a heater in there.
I'd estimate the temp in there now at 75ish vs probably 60 before.
Just hit it with it's first "repair coat" going to try to get two more on it and then give it the week of rest before water tests again. it's frustrating to be set back like this, but crucial to having confidence in the system.
I'd estimate the temp in there now at 75ish vs probably 60 before.
Just hit it with it's first "repair coat" going to try to get two more on it and then give it the week of rest before water tests again. it's frustrating to be set back like this, but crucial to having confidence in the system.
I would love your input on an idea regarding lights.
I am looking at light rail systems that are commonly used in grow houses, these hold the lights, and move down a rail. I found a set on amazon at around 110.
Basically, I believe these move the light along the 7ft rail about 4 ft a minute (still getting exact numbers) so I could mount both my current usa pros on a single rail, and have it move up and down the track all day.
What do you guys think of this? Are there advantages of lights that change position in terms of reduction of shadows? Would the constant light, then darker (but shouldn't be totally dark) cause a negative impact?
I am looking at light rail systems that are commonly used in grow houses, these hold the lights, and move down a rail. I found a set on amazon at around 110.
Basically, I believe these move the light along the 7ft rail about 4 ft a minute (still getting exact numbers) so I could mount both my current usa pros on a single rail, and have it move up and down the track all day.
What do you guys think of this? Are there advantages of lights that change position in terms of reduction of shadows? Would the constant light, then darker (but shouldn't be totally dark) cause a negative impact?
What problem are you trying to solve by adding this? This seems like just one more thing to potentially break and maintain.
primarily a little over 9 foot long tanks, and lighting them. I can use a single bar of my current usas and light most of it without issue, but I would have to keep the lights low to make sure enough power hit the coral. It's a shallow build so I know ill be fine power wise, but I was exploring some other options.
gotchya - I was curious for the "why" - so just using motion to provide light to the entire length of each tank rather than lighting the entire length of tank.
Are you thinking moving the lighting super slow and running the lights 24 hours a day - say, like 8 hours per day directly over 1/3 of the tank? or moving at a faster pace back and forth and running the lights for a 10 or 12 lighting period?
I'd be curious how the corals would react to the "pulse" of light if the lights are moved at the faster pace - as well as what the coral health would be if they are deprived of a period of total darkness each night.
Are you thinking moving the lighting super slow and running the lights 24 hours a day - say, like 8 hours per day directly over 1/3 of the tank? or moving at a faster pace back and forth and running the lights for a 10 or 12 lighting period?
I'd be curious how the corals would react to the "pulse" of light if the lights are moved at the faster pace - as well as what the coral health would be if they are deprived of a period of total darkness each night.
these rails I am looking at don't appear to have speed adjustments, so it's looking like it's a 4ft per min pace roughly, so i would probably opt to maintain a regular lighting cycle, probably a little bit extended, to maybe 10 or 11 hours if I went this way.
You could power the motor with a timer or apex
for sure i was going to put a timer to turn it off at night, but yeah, I could look at a timer for more specific control. I don't have an apex though, those things are pricey, and I didn't have the good fortune to win the raffle I am a software developer, so if I can find some usb controlled AC relays, I bet I could write something to do all kinds of fun stuff
I am a software developer, so if I can find some usb controlled AC relays, I bet I could write something to do all kinds of fun stuff Ahhh - yeah, for the size system you're building I would for sure look for some automation.for sure i was going to put a timer to turn it off at night, but yeah, I could look at a timer for more specific control. I don't have an apex though, those things are pricey, and I didn't have the good fortune to win the raffle
Arduino's, a relay board, some DIY outlet's and some simple sensors - under $100 and some time and your skill (simple C++ style "programming") and you could have as much functionality as a $800 apex.
This went off topic - sorry - I don't have a knowledgable response to your question about the lighting thing. I've been following your thread and was wondering the other day what you had planned for lighting.
What about T5's for growth and eliminate shading issues and LED's down the center. Side to side you'd just need 1 T5 front and back. You could cover both troughs with 8 bulbs total. Then add the leds.
With moving LEDs you'd have to time when you can take pics too. Sounds like a pita
With moving LEDs you'd have to time when you can take pics too. Sounds like a pita
I agree, i think I'll scrap the moving idea. it would also be a pain when people visits, id have to power down the trolley and move them where they want to see.
My original idea was just to use all this aluminum extrusion i have to build arms to set them on. it's a fully adjustable system, so i think i will go with that, and doesn't cost me anything
The arms also can easily support lighting upgrades down the road.
Incidentally, I just finished the third and final repair coat, so now it's back to letting it sit for curing, I plan to let it sit until probably saturday or sunday at the latest as I don't feel it needs a week due to the humidity in there is now down to 30%. Water tests and cleaning next week, saltwater next weekend.
My original idea was just to use all this aluminum extrusion i have to build arms to set them on. it's a fully adjustable system, so i think i will go with that, and doesn't cost me anything
The arms also can easily support lighting upgrades down the road.
Incidentally, I just finished the third and final repair coat, so now it's back to letting it sit for curing, I plan to let it sit until probably saturday or sunday at the latest as I don't feel it needs a week due to the humidity in there is now down to 30%. Water tests and cleaning next week, saltwater next weekend.
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With it being this cold outside is the temp staying up in the room? I'd think the colder it is the longer the cure time.
The room is insulated, and the dehumidifer is putting out heat, the heat read out on the dehumidifer is right now at 71 i think when I was down there.
Though I'll bet the cold temp was a part of the cause for my curing issue previously.
Though I'll bet the cold temp was a part of the cause for my curing issue previously.
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I cant see the constant light then darker being a big problem since we have clouds in nature, but i suggest going with some homemade T5s for best bang for the buck. If you are really creative try going for homemade LEDs. Thatll save you much more money in the long run considering you won't need to replace bulbs. Just make sure to make them more diffused so the lights aren't too direct and create shadowing. I never asked. What type of corals will you be growing?
Mostly LPS, haven't worked out a good way to ship SPS yet. Hoping to get into some mushrooms as well,
I do have two sets of current usa pros that i hope to use, going to be building the frames for those as soon as I can get moved into the new system. (I plan to build the frames for it using the aluminum extrusion I build my stand out of on my old tank.
Today is going to be the first day of water tests, where I fill it, let it sit, and then drain it. assuming no problems (and I am sure it's good to go now) I should be ready for saltwater next weekend.
I do have two sets of current usa pros that i hope to use, going to be building the frames for those as soon as I can get moved into the new system. (I plan to build the frames for it using the aluminum extrusion I build my stand out of on my old tank.
Today is going to be the first day of water tests, where I fill it, let it sit, and then drain it. assuming no problems (and I am sure it's good to go now) I should be ready for saltwater next weekend.
Okay, I have refilled the tanks with water, and they are looking good.
One thing I will point out that was pretty much immediately noticeable. If you look back on my photos of the first time I filled it, you can see in one of them that it turned brown, this is normal after a period of time, but in my previous fill, it turned brown very quickly.
With this new fill up after a solid curing using a dehumidifier it is still black under water. I fully expect it to turn brown, but the fact that it isn't turning brown nearly as quickly as it did before leads me to believe that this could be an indicator of an improperly cured liquid rubber tank.
One thing I will point out that was pretty much immediately noticeable. If you look back on my photos of the first time I filled it, you can see in one of them that it turned brown, this is normal after a period of time, but in my previous fill, it turned brown very quickly.
With this new fill up after a solid curing using a dehumidifier it is still black under water. I fully expect it to turn brown, but the fact that it isn't turning brown nearly as quickly as it did before leads me to believe that this could be an indicator of an improperly cured liquid rubber tank.
