Hair Algae Galore

haninja

haninja

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So I figure I’m gonna start a tread because I’m reaching the end of my rope… I have been battling green hair algae since the beginning of this tank which is over a year ago. I had ups and downs but it never went completely away. I always use RO/DI water, I do weekly water changes, skim wet, run carbon and GFO. I recently switched to Phosguard and added nitrate reactor as well. Not only the HA is not subsiding, it seems to grow even more. I checked phos with 3 diferent kits – all 0… all the rest of the param are fine. It looks like I have two types, one is the silky fine green hair and the second kinda resemble bryopsis but I don’t think it is. Here’s a recent picture of both. LMK what you guys think.

IMG_0373.jpg
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Hanin,
I saw the picture and first thing I thought about the ferny type was that it is bryopsis.

If I was in your situation, I would buy a sea hare and let it loose in the tank to take care of the hair algae, and get some Kent Tech M and treat for Bryopsis.
 
Hanin, you have plenty of amunition left!

what I would do:

Change GFO Weekly
dose vodka (or at least drink it, lol)

continue with weekly changes...

Then, try http://www.amazon.com/Aquarium-Pharmaceuticals-387C-Algaefix-Algaecide/dp/B0017JHBDM/ref=wl_mb_hu_c_2_dp">Algaefix Marine</a>
should be solved....

then, if you also have briop, kent m...

this is my humble opine...
 
I've read every "Hair Algae Thread" that I've seen on ARC over the years. It seems very common for it to spring up with all parameters in check. We typically blame phosphates for the infestation, but that doesn't always pan out. In fact, this is an issue that strikes old and (by far more often) new tanks, belonging to newbies and accomplished reefers.

I'm noticing a pattern though........ Tanks that have issues with HA have ALWAYS had issues with HA. It seems self perpetuating......

Like Hanin stated above, this tank has fought it for the year it's been up and running.

I'd like to know from where the Live Rock in the tank came....

Feasibly, phosphates or other compounds could be in the rock it's self, and either discharged at a very slow rate, or, feeding algae growing directly on the rock.

This is just an hypothesis, just waiting to be shot down, but with collected natural rock, we're not certain exactly the conditions it was collected. If it were collected near a run-off area, and compounds have built up within the rock over years, then it might always be a source of contaminants. Cooking it, drying it, scrubbing it wouldn't really help, it would pretty much just be bad rock, and no one would ever really know.

Any thoughts?
 
Oh ya, I also have two sea hares and I'm dosing Algaefix... And manually removal... I don't like vodka but I dose myself with Jack when the need arise. ;)
My latest idea was to try and do a 80% - 90% water change to reduce whatever is in the water that is causing it.
Also, somebody recently mentioned that pond foam might something, can't remember who, but I do have a lot on my made wall...
 
Just reread the bit about the rock. Well, some was live but a significant part was rock that I bleached.
 
But can bleach break down phosphates and fertilizer run off if it's deep in the rock? If so, how long would it take?


I'm just wondering personally.

It just seems some tanks are more prone to HA than others, and I'm looking for reasons.
 
It's phates and trates..

Yes, the rock could have bound so much phates that it takes a long time to exhaust...

I havnt had hair algae in years, it might pop up as a small patch then die off..

I am currently caring for 2 leopard erases that have just healed some wounds from stress (or stung by tube Anenome, doubtful), so I am feeding extra high octane food..and I'm not stopping...extra PE Mysis, Spirulla Brine SOAKED in Selcon and Cyclo-peez..

So my problem is self induced, as usually is..but I'm not stopping..
My algae isn't spreading anymore by changing GFO/carbon weekly, water changes, and extra vodka, but it isn't going way either...

Granted its not bad, but not how it usually is..I started my first dose of Algaefix marine and wil continue until it is mostly gone, while I still will handle trates and phates so I can stop it..I don't want to rely on it..

Edit: Just follow directions on Algae fix..it'll take 7-12 doses every 3 days..

Edit: I think you have to cook rock to get rid of phates..not 100 though.
 
I have had problems with HA and I do all the above, but one thing I have noticed in my tank that seems to help is the use of a powerful UV sterilizer. I can tell when my bulb gets week because the HA comes back. Here is a link on proper use of UVs. It is focused on ponds but I think it is applicable to SW aquariums. Every time I get lazy and let the UV bulb weaken I get an outbreak of HA. Get one of these and set it up properly and see what happens in a few weeks. Frequent daily/weekly water changes would force me into early retirement for the hobby!

Good luck!


a>
 
twhitti;702000 wrote: I have had problems with HA and I do all the above, but one thing I have noticed in my tank that seems to help is the use of a powerful UV sterilizer. I can tell when my bulb gets week because the HA comes back. Here is a link on proper use of UVs. It is focused on ponds but I think it is applicable to SW aquariums. Every time I get lazy and let the UV bulb weaken I get an outbreak of HA. Get one of these and set it up properly and see what happens in a few weeks. Frequent daily/weekly water changes would force me into early retirement for the hobby!

Good luck!


http://www.americanaquariumproducts.com/AquariumUVSterilization.html">http://www.americanaquariumproducts.com/AquariumUVSterilization.html</a>[/QUOTE]

A UV won't do much for attached hair algae, as it will not come into contact with it.

From your cited article:

"Certain problem algae such as hair algae; most of the time hair algae comes attached to the plant that was purchased, or it may come in attached to the shells of snails or similar transferred rocks, etc. Unfortunately for this type of algae, you find little aid from a UV Sterilizer."
Click to expand...
 
Acroholic;702027 wrote: A UV won't do much for attached hair algae, as it will not come into contact with it.

From your cited article:

"Certain problem algae such as hair algae; most of the time hair algae comes attached to the plant that was purchased, or it may come in attached to the shells of snails or similar transferred rocks, etc. Unfortunately for this type of algae, you find little aid from a UV Sterilizer."
Click to expand...


agree here...

phates aren't in the water column so much either...it really doesn;t do anything for HA..
 
Bummer have had the battle also. I took all my corals and put them in the sump. And then turned the lights off and also a black blanket over the tank after 3 days went in and hand pulled as much as i could then another round of dark for 3 days i did that for 3 weeks then went to a 3hr light cycle and water changes for a week then 5 hr for a week then back to normal light. All is well for 5 yrs now. Good luck
 
mysterybox;702032 wrote: agree here...

phates aren't in the water column so much either...it really doesn;t do anything for HA..
Click to expand...

Let's start this again,

So if Phosphates are not in the water column why does GFO (btw, I will check if you're on their payroll) work so well? You just pump water over it...
 
The reason the phosphates are not showing up is because the algae is using it up before it can be extracted by the methods you listed. Try to view as a refugium with macro algae that we have used to reduce nutrients unfortunately this is in your display my point is don't be confused about the nutrients not showing in the water column. Most of the media we try GFO etc are great if all the water column runs through the reactor and does so before the algae can absorb it faster than it is introduced.
 
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