Heeeeelllllpppppp with No3 and Phos
- Thread starter 1mbrews8
- Start date
Are you on well water by any chance?
(like on a farm with too much fertilizer use?)
Thé ÉPA legal limit for NO3 is 10ppm in drinking water.
Fwiw-
Here in Cherokee Co. we have 0.28ppm NO3. PO4 isn’t tested, but your 0.41 would be considered high.
You said you tested fresh made salt water:
That should read very low to 0 on both. So, either your source water is bad, your salt and/or container is contaminated or, your test kit and/or procedure is questionable.
My $0.02
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(like on a farm with too much fertilizer use?)
Thé ÉPA legal limit for NO3 is 10ppm in drinking water.
Fwiw-
Here in Cherokee Co. we have 0.28ppm NO3. PO4 isn’t tested, but your 0.41 would be considered high.
You said you tested fresh made salt water:
That should read very low to 0 on both. So, either your source water is bad, your salt and/or container is contaminated or, your test kit and/or procedure is questionable.
My $0.02
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I think stopping dosing altogether (Sodium Nitrate, calc, Alk, mag, others ) is a great call in your case.
As for Dino’s, there’s the possibility that there aren’t any in your tank right now. That’s something positive you have going for you. Because if that’s the case, then you don’t have to worry about them unless you add them (intentionally or unintentionally).
However, just because you’re not actively dosing phosphates like you are with nitrates doesn’t mean you aren’t adding them to your system. All of your organisms that are living in your tank are constantly releasing and consuming phosphates and nitrates. Additionally, anytime you feed the tank, the food you feed your fish is composed of N and P. ...lol, but you previously commented that your clowns are grazing on the algae, which is another positive thing you have going for you!
Ishin;
It’s great to hear that the cyano has been dying down. However, I previously mentioned how resourceful cyano is. If it is in a system, I don’t trust it; It will rear its ugly head again. In a big system like yours, yet still relatively empty of livestock... I would choose a plan and continue that plan until you’ve removed 99% of the cyano and algae. Then use one of the previously mentioned compounds (Chemiclean or Erythromycin) to give it 1 or 2 more hard blows and try to remove it 100%, following by a rigorous water change. Then, keep an extremely close eye on the tank for a couple months following to ensure is completely gone.
Note for these compounds: they are strong and there are reports of them being harmful for certain fish and corals. I’ve seen all manners of fish and corals fare perfectly through multiple doses. However, I’ve also seen some corals get super pissed. That said; these will kill all sponges/tunicates. So if you have any that you want to keep, remove them before dosing.
its not really a big system. 125g and running since December of 2018. And I cant stop dosing everything. I got about 35 frags, about 6 mini colonies, and some lps. Had to get a calrx to keep up. Not sure if you're talking about me on the clowns grazing on the algae. I dont remember saying that but if I did it must be a typo. My tangs do but they sure dont go for the cyano.
I had mixed up your comments and OP’s. Lol, my bad
Something isn't right with the test chemical or the test method (your fault). I use Salifert test kits and it's pretty straightforward so I'm leaning towards something being off with the test itself. I know hobby grade tests are the most accurate but I've never see any brand off by that much much less a Salifert kit. Take some of the source water to a store and have them test it as well.
Edit: I know you're a ways away but I'm in Stone Mountain and would be more than happy to give you as much RODI as you need. Stone Mtn is a bit of a haul but it's closer than most of the folks on the North side of town. If you think that would help, just let me know.
Edit: I know you're a ways away but I'm in Stone Mountain and would be more than happy to give you as much RODI as you need. Stone Mtn is a bit of a haul but it's closer than most of the folks on the North side of town. If you think that would help, just let me know.
I’m thinking it’s either the salt, or sand and rocks in the tank? I’ll add in some salt tonight, and then test again after Tom to double check
Probably my fault LOL! Although just to make sure you know, the above two pictures are from two different water sources.
One is the system water, and one is the RODI water storage container with maybe a little bit of last batch of salt water still in there
Now do the same test with phosphates and see if the rodi water itself has phosphate.
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If you are testing saltwater AFTER it’s added to a tank, I’m betting you are leaching nutrients from rocks/substrate.
Phosphate will naturally form calcium phosphate on the surface of aragonite rocks and gravel/sand, unless the phosphate level is held very low.
The best way to eliminate phosphate bound like this is, to start over with new rock & sand, OR to rinse them both in a solution of citric acid. Then rinse both thoroughly with DI water afterward.
The citrate ion readily binds with (removes) phosphate and is almost unequaled chemically, in this regard.
Citric acid is also inexpensive, so probably your best bet.
Phosphate is much more difficult to remove than nitrate. Much of the nitrate should rinse away.
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Phosphate will naturally form calcium phosphate on the surface of aragonite rocks and gravel/sand, unless the phosphate level is held very low.
The best way to eliminate phosphate bound like this is, to start over with new rock & sand, OR to rinse them both in a solution of citric acid. Then rinse both thoroughly with DI water afterward.
The citrate ion readily binds with (removes) phosphate and is almost unequaled chemically, in this regard.
Citric acid is also inexpensive, so probably your best bet.
Phosphate is much more difficult to remove than nitrate. Much of the nitrate should rinse away.
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Fwiw-
citric acid is an organic acid and therefore a weak acid, chemically speaking.
It will not dissolve your rock & gravel, like say sulfuric or hydrochloride acids would.
It’s effectiveness in removing phosphate has to do with specific geometry & chemical properties (ie- ‘valence’).
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citric acid is an organic acid and therefore a weak acid, chemically speaking.
It will not dissolve your rock & gravel, like say sulfuric or hydrochloride acids would.
It’s effectiveness in removing phosphate has to do with specific geometry & chemical properties (ie- ‘valence’).
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No way to do this while the rock is in the tank I would imagine right?
Will do. Standby
I’m testing the water only in two different places. The actual running system, and then the RODI lower 55 gallon drum
OK, so I tested phos in the RODI container again and got .53 on regular Hannah phosphate low range tester
Should I go ahead and put a couple drops of phosphate RX in there to drop it down to 0 before I do another water change in a few days?
