Thank you!
Heeeeelllllpppppp with No3 and Phos
- Thread starter 1mbrews8
- Start date
Thank you!
It took mine a few weeks to be able to see the difference on the output.still no reduction in nitrates out of reactor(
going to up vi dose from 4ml to 8ml per day
i am seeing coraline forming again though, so that is a plus..
Is the flow low enough? Just less than a steady stream is perfect.
I think so... I turned it down even more.. takes a second to 3 to fill up a 10ml test tube thingy
ATI Results!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
RODI = https://lab.atiaquaristik.com/publicAnalysis/52324
TANK WATER = https://lab.atiaquaristik.com/publicAnalysis/51389
** Looks like rodi water Phos is main thing with that and Nitrates with tank water?
RODI = https://lab.atiaquaristik.com/publicAnalysis/52324
TANK WATER = https://lab.atiaquaristik.com/publicAnalysis/51389
** Looks like rodi water Phos is main thing with that and Nitrates with tank water?
You're silicon is through the roof out of the RODI! And the Phosphorus is pretty high as well.
How old are the RO membranes & prefilters? The DI definitely needs to be changes out. Go with the Anion DI for the 1st chamber and mixed bed for the 2nd. This will help a lot with the silicon.
Your system seems to be using up the Phosphorus & PO4 pretty quick because those numbers are ideal for the system. Once the RODI is fixed it looks like the system will become deficient in those. But the traite's are not coming down. Once your Phos deficient there'll be more problems. So ATI's recommendation to add some is sound, it will help with bringing the NO3 down. How many BIG water changes have you done in the last couple weeks?
If you had an algae scrubber running it's be growing a ton of GHA.
I saw that! Not sure what that would be from? Only have one DI chamber... are you saying take one of the carbon micron filters out and replace with another DI one?
I know there is phos in the RODI water, so I dont put any nopx or whatever in it to try to add some phos to the system to balance out.. but might need to add even more phos without adding more nitrates lol
I have done 3 or 4 "big" water changes of about 50g or slightly less each. My salt mixed holding tank is only 55g drum, so kinda limited in that respect.
I've dosed more vi today so hope that'll do something, but not much luck yet
(Have cheato in the fuge and looks like getting bigger, but nothing crazy or anything..
You should add a second chamber for di resin, don't take the carbon out. You can get a di chamber from bulk reef supply, and the separate resins for both.
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Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk
I'm old thoughhhhhhhhhh! This nitrate needs to get off my lawn lolol!
Yes add a 2nd DI chamber. I'd also change out all filters and toss the current DI resin. You've got to start with clean water and not plan for the source to add PO4.
You can use Seachem's Flourish to keep some PO4 in there and reduce it as needed while the NO3 drops so it's controlled.
With the water changes there's a diminished return. If you have 200 gallons with 200 NO3 and do a 25% change the NO3 drops to 150. The next 25% change drops it to 112.5, not 100. This continues downward. Now a 50% change creates a bigger impact, but it can stress the coral.
You can use Seachem's Flourish to keep some PO4 in there and reduce it as needed while the NO3 drops so it's controlled.
With the water changes there's a diminished return. If you have 200 gallons with 200 NO3 and do a 25% change the NO3 drops to 150. The next 25% change drops it to 112.5, not 100. This continues downward. Now a 50% change creates a bigger impact, but it can stress the coral.
big 8 bucket WC today, still using new, but not up to par water, just to do something :O) have very slow flow in the nitrate reactor.. coral looking fine and more coraline forming.
got my digital sal meter in and reading 1.027
gotta leave for orlando tom though, so fingers crossed all stays in check
got my digital sal meter in and reading 1.027
gotta leave for orlando tom though, so fingers crossed all stays in check
Stop by wwc and drool on their tanks while you are there. When you see their prices you might stop drooling
and start crying 
, but it's a great setup they have. Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk
been there spent that lol! They are great guys... know them pretty good from back in the day and their new setup is SICK! They just posted they will be having free bus limo rides from macna to their stores and back... pretty smart lol
Was super excited kind of when I got home but I saw that the outlet for the reactor had stopped.
I turned the water just a tiny bit more to get it going and tested it and got zero nitrates!
However, 10 minutes later, it was back to high again LOL
I also replace the DI resin with some that I had sitting around and seems to definitely have helped!
Before tds from city water
TDS with “old” resin
TDS with new resin
Is this good enough? Or should I go for zero and maybe add another DI section?
Do you think this now will help bring the nitrates down?
I turned the water just a tiny bit more to get it going and tested it and got zero nitrates!
However, 10 minutes later, it was back to high again LOL
I also replace the DI resin with some that I had sitting around and seems to definitely have helped!
Before tds from city water
TDS with “old” resin
TDS with new resin
Is this good enough? Or should I go for zero and maybe add another DI section?
Do you think this now will help bring the nitrates down?
So after a while now, the color changing DI is pretty tan already and the TDS our has creeped up to eight or nine.
Also when the float valve shuts off the flow to the fresh RODI container, it still keeps coming out of the waste water line?
Also when the float valve shuts off the flow to the fresh RODI container, it still keeps coming out of the waste water line?
The auto shutoff valve is failing. This causes waste water to contaminate the fileted ro water. The valve is cheap ($5), it's the white block that has 4 hoses going to it.
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The water I get in Gwinnett is between 40 & 50 TDS from the tap. After the prefilters & RO membrane it's zero to 2. After the DI chambers it's always zero and what you should be shooting for.
RO membranes love pressure, after the sediment & carbon prefilters you want 60+ psi when the system is running. With a failing shut off valve leaking low pressure water to flow the prefilters & RO membrane will get trashed pretty quickly causing high TDS water to enter the DI, which will in turn deplete that media real quick as well.
Auto shut off valve
After replacing that and verifying proper function I'd still replace all filters.
RO membranes love pressure, after the sediment & carbon prefilters you want 60+ psi when the system is running. With a failing shut off valve leaking low pressure water to flow the prefilters & RO membrane will get trashed pretty quickly causing high TDS water to enter the DI, which will in turn deplete that media real quick as well.
Auto shut off valve
After replacing that and verifying proper function I'd still replace all filters.
kk.. I know I've replaced that in the past at least 1x.
I had the $60 pressure reducing black thing on there for quite a while, but wouldn't let enough pressure back in this last time when I replaced the di (would only go/adjust to maybe 40psi).
But if I totally took it off, it'd shoot up to 100psi+ on full blast.
Currently, I have it just cracked to get 50-60psi when making water, but have to shut it all off so the wasted water stops once 55g is full.
It did auto shut off waste 1x when i jiggled the float valve in the 55g rodi drum after full, but I couldn't trust it/nor replicate it, so turned it all the way off.
I'll order a aso and try that
thx!
I had the $60 pressure reducing black thing on there for quite a while, but wouldn't let enough pressure back in this last time when I replaced the di (would only go/adjust to maybe 40psi).
But if I totally took it off, it'd shoot up to 100psi+ on full blast.
Currently, I have it just cracked to get 50-60psi when making water, but have to shut it all off so the wasted water stops once 55g is full.
It did auto shut off waste 1x when i jiggled the float valve in the 55g rodi drum after full, but I couldn't trust it/nor replicate it, so turned it all the way off.
I'll order a aso and try that
thx!
also read it could have something to do with the check valve? But it is a BRS unit, so I'd imagine it'd be "normal" and on there if necessary since most other folks' work?
