I think my yellow tang may have ick help!

ronnieblaze

Member
Market
Messages
100
Reaction score
0
im not really sure if its ick or now... but i just noticed that he has tiny white spots pretty much all over him... if its ick what do i need to do? i have no way of tanking him out and quarenting him
 
Start reading http://www.atlantareefclub.org/wiki/Ich">here</a> and ask questions when you are done reading. I think that will answer most of your questions.


Oh BTW: pay special attention to the section called "[B][I]Treatment Option 7: Quinine Based Drugs</em>[/B]", it will be your best and maybe only hope if you do not want to remove the fish.
 
through in some cleaner shrimp and a uv if your not gonna break down and he should be ok just make sure its eating good luck
victor
 
Follow Vics advice. Ick in many tanks is a fact of life and when fish are healthy, it isn't a problem.
 
he is eating good as of right now... i just fed them not too long ago and he eats like a pig and i keep seaweed in there for him
 
get the cleaners from tim thats were i got mine from cheapest in town as well
 
I have some stuff Sal let me borrow, Metronidazole and Focus.. I take some tank water add the focus and met. 5:1 ratio and soak the food in it.. The focus bonds the met. To the food so its not floating and poisoning the tank... Worked after 6 days on a hippo tang and coral is fine...
 
Xyzpdq0121;122676 wrote: I am packing up my soap box and going home......



;)


It was a good shot, Brandon. Use Focus and Metro in a 1:1 ratio. Seachem changed their instructions after they release the garlic to that ratio. They just have a bunch of old labels they're working through.
 
Xyzpdq0121;122676 wrote: I am packing up my soap box and going home......



;)

All you can do is put out the advise you can't make them take it.
 
I have come to the conclusion (and this is strictly my opinion and not a fact of any kind) that ick tends to live in some tanks and is pretty much impossible to get rid of. I also think that natural methods of controlling the pest work really well as long as fish are healthy. My last thought on it is dipping a fish and QTing after the fact likely causes more harm than good in the sense that it weakens the fishes natural immunities.
 
i think brandonsa advise is the best ..that is what i did but some way some how i introduced it back to my tank so now im stuck with it ...it is to much trouble to break down a 90 gal reef to qt fish that are happy were they are just to stress them more
 
well right now its too late to do anything.. if i look at him with the lights off it doesnt look like there is anything on him... he has been eating great since i got him.. going on 2 weeks now... he's been really shy hides when ever someone walks by.. im gonna pick up a cleaner or 2 and what happens
 
If he accepts cleaning by cleaner shrimp, they will strip him of pests fast.
 
I agree Brandon's advice is the best.. In the case like mine (pulling 350lbs of LR out and chasing him down) was just out of the question..I was offering that as a last effort..
 
Ask Brandon how all that advice worked out for him last time he had to use it... :yes:
 
Cameron;122713 wrote: Ask Brandon how all that advice worked out for him last time he had to use it... :yes:


Worked out great as a matter of fact. The last time I had to QT some fish with known Ich, It was the Damsel and the tomato clown in the 40 gallon. After 1 Formalin dip and some time in QT (I will admit it was an extra long QT because the 40 took me so long to get set up) they have not had any sign.

On the 55 gal, I am still doing experiments for "in tank" or "reef safe" cures without QT but none have really be successful longterm. I have been able to keep the Ich at bay in most cases with a medicated food that I have created and feed once every day or two. "Eagle eyes" over here checks the tank almost daily for new infestation and I take notes on success up to this point.

Through all the study and testing, I still believe that QT is the best way to go. I have changed my methods to include my drug of choice which is Formalin 3 in a 45 min dip. I have tested it on angels, clowns, tangs, blennies, gobies, and wrasses and it has proven pretty safe with no fish loss. I follow that up with a hypo QT period of 4-6 weeks. I am still undecided if 4-6 weeks of fallow period is long enough or if Cameron is right, once you have Ich in a tank you will always have Ich. If I could answer that question, I could write a book.

So yes "Skimmer Boy", it has been going well for me in the "following my own advice" department!
 
i have no way to QT him. he is eating very good. i do a 10G water change every 2 weeks.. so right now im not sure how to go about this problem..
 
Belive me, I feel your pain. You want my best advice for your situation? Well you are going to get it anyways... Good diet, clean water, little stress, and some cleaners (shrimp or
prod_Display.cfm
 
Xyzpdq0121;122820 wrote: Worked out great as a matter of fact. The last time I had to QT some fish with known Ich, It was the Damsel and the tomato clown in the 40 gallon. After 1 Formalin dip and some time in QT (I will admit it was an extra long QT because the 40 took me so long to get set up) they have not had any sign.
I didn't think you had ick in the 40g. I thought the last time you removed a fish from a tank to treat it for ick was on the 55g. I guess I could be wrong there, but I am pretty sure you are refering to how you QT'd before they hit the tank so unless I am wrong about that and ick actually was present in the 40g at one point my original point stands... the success of a long QT and aggressive treatment didn't work on a tank and the fish with ick.

Personally, I think you did all you could do on the 55g (well maybe with the exception of running Furan) and I think those fish from the 55g were "cured" while in QT. What I do believe is the ick lifecycle in your 55g continued for the many weeks you ran the tank empty. I am guessing if the ick in your 55g hits your 40g, you will have it in the 40g until you break the tank down.

Nothing personal, I am just going on observations from yours and several other tanks. Seems once that stuff is in... it is in sans some real drastic measures.
 
Back
Top