is this reef safe?

robbywood20

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I am building a new sump and have some white lighting silicone. It says all purpose 100% silicone rubber (clear) ingredients are
Amorphorous silica
Ethyl triacetoxysilane
Methyl triacetoxysilane
Polydimethylsiloxane
Hydroxy Terminated
none of this means anything to me but maybe someone on here has used this with some sucess.
 
Are you building the sump out of glass?

Silicone typically holds only temporarily to any plastics and will eventually give way / come loose

If you are going to invest the time in building a glass sump, why not use the stuff made for aquariums..... That way, if you go to sell it later on, there's no need to add an ethical disclaimer about the silicone you used....

Just my opinion
 
I've used several types. As long as it says 100 percent silicone you should be ok.
 
Dakota9;697938 wrote: Are you building the sump out of glass?

Silicone typically holds only temporarily to any plastics and will eventually give way / come loose

If you are going to invest the time in building a glass sump, why not use the stuff made for aquariums..... That way, if you go to sell it later on, there's no need to add an ethical disclaimer about the silicone you used....

Just my opinion

?... Aquariums are made with silicone.
 
I know aquariums are made with silicone but not all silicone is safe for fish or corals. but yes thus is 100% silicone and should be fine. thanks
 
Also when you do your joints be sure to sandwhich the pieces with the silicone and don't just use seams on the inside.

Another tip when you lay it on the inside use a piece of square cardboard or plastic. Clip the corner of the cardboard or plastic. Use this to smooth your silicone and work from the bottom to the top with slow wipes. Have plenty of paper towels and wipe the excess off after each wipe. Good luck if you need any more tips just pm me. b
 
thanks smallblock.I may have to recut my glass pieces some may be too tight. what is a good gap to have between the glass for a good seal?
 
Smallblock;697951 wrote: huh?

... okay... glass AND silicone.


Oh, and tape the inside of the glass pieces so that you can have a clean edge after you put your silicone on.
 
Crewdawg1981;697963 wrote: ... okay... glass AND silicone.


Oh, and tape the inside of the glass pieces so that you can have a clean edge after you put your silicone on.


Oh I get i now lol, yes the tape thing I saw on a thread here recently is a good tip. I havent ever done it but plan on trying it next time I do some. Good point Crewdawg!
 
I've done some awesome seams without the tape. If you cut the cardboard right it won't leave any silicone but where you want it because the straight edge of the cardboard scraps it off when you spread. If there is any left it will be very thin and I just take a razor blade and it comes off really easy. You can almost just rub it off with your finger. Good luck and post some pics. The sandwhich deal is a must though it will never work without it.
 
robbywood20;697959 wrote: thanks smallblock.I may have to recut my glass pieces some may be too tight. what is a good gap to have between the glass for a good seal?

I would say 1/2"
 
I would say not to use the white lighting even though it might say 100% silicon. I only use GE type 1 or 108 and never had a problem as 108 is what most assemble tanks with. Just my opinion though!
 
If it is 100% silicone - how come it can have 5 ingredients?

It's like pure apple juice, containing grape and pear juice...
 
+1 to the GE 1. Anything without "mildew resistance" should be safe. I have used the GE 1 and no detriment to coral or any invert, but it will discolor yellow. I do not know if this was because I missed a step in curing, but, if it is in a sump should not matter.
 
I think I have used the dap or something and the GE with NO problems. I used the black on both tanks.

Edit: I'm not sure about the white lightning lets look up a couple and compare.

Edit: dap
http://www.setonresourcecenter.com/msdshazcom/htdocs/COMMON/wcd00018/wcd0188a.htm">http://www.setonresourcecenter.com/msdshazcom/htdocs/COMMON/wcd00018/wcd0188a.htm</a>

Edit: not sure looks informative lol

I had typed in white lightning [IMG]http://www.polyseamseal.com/pdf/msds_100-silicone-clear.pdf">http://www.polyseamseal.com/pdf/msds_100-silicone-clear.pdf</a>
 
Anyway what you want to stay away from is the kitchen and bath types have the antifungal/ mold n mildew ingrediants. Some silicones will say food safe or food quality. I have used the dap, black and the ge II black. I believe they both were window and door. They don't say safe for aquariums because they don't want lawsuits. They are safe. I can vouch for those 2.

Some of the aquarium ones have a differant curing agent in them. These are probably safer if you had to repair a tank or sump etc that has water in it or you cannot avoid letting it cure for a few days.

Robb the silicones are RTV Room temperature vulcanizing. I think the added ingrediants are the curing agents. The ingrediants that keep them soft untill exposed to oxegen. Theory.

Points, Stay away from bathroom and kitchen types. Make sure its 100 percent silicone. If you can get the DAP or GE II. Look on it and see if you can find one that says food safe or food quality. Make sure you don't get caulk because it has been proved to poisen the tank. Let it cure I'de say for at least 2 to 3 days to be safe. If you have the time a week.

Edit: If your still worried pm a guy named fishscales2. He builds tanks. I would bet he doesnt pay for the aquarium type because its pretty expensive.
 
Smallblock;698121 wrote: Anyway what you want to stay away from is the kitchen and bath types have the antifungal/ mold n mildew ingrediants. Some silicones will say food safe or food quality. I have used the dap, black and the ge II black. I believe they both were window and door. They don't say safe for aquariums because they don't want lawsuits. They are safe. I can vouch for those 2.

Some of the aquarium ones have a differant curing agent in them. These are probably safer if you had to repair a tank or sump etc that has water in it or you cannot avoid letting it cure for a few days.

Robb the silicones are RTV Room temperature vulcanizing. I think the added ingrediants are the curing agents. The ingrediants that keep them soft untill exposed to oxegen. Theory.

Points, Stay away from bathroom and kitchen types. Make sure its 100 percent silicone. If you can get the DAP or GE II. Look on it and see if you can find one that says food safe or food quality. Make sure you don't get caulk because it has been proved to poisen the tank. Let it cure I'de say for at least 2 to 3 days to be safe. If you have the time a week.

Edit: If your still worried pm a guy named fishscales2. He builds tanks. I would bet he doesnt pay for the aquarium type because its pretty expensive.

Not quite,

RTV uses acetic acid (replaced the chloride group in the molecule) for curing - none of the ones in your list is an acid.
Easily identified by the vinegar smell when curing - rule of thumb: no vinegar smell = some funky stuff

Source:
http://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Polydimethylsiloxane
 
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