My 33gal build, NEWBIE so be easy?

So do i need to stop this or just let it be, dosent apper that it is bothering any thing, looks as if is is just on on piece of my lr, i am sure i could do some moving around to get it out n scrub or dry out if need be, just worreid dont want to loose anything due to that, have been doing good for the last four months only lost one little frogspawn and a brain, that was due to doing the coral to soon i think...i just need some advise on what to due about that stuff
 
How long did you acclimate the frog spawn and the monti you got from me? The frog spawn will not expand fully until its fully acclimated to your tank, which would take 1-3 days.
 
i am still putting 5ml of my water into yours about every five minutes, got a ? though which way do i need to lay that monti?
 
U DONT HAVE ANY SPARE MH SETUPS DUE U, I AM NOT understanding if this setup on ebay comes with a ballast or not, it just says external hqi controler
(OUTLING)
 
The monti needs to be placed polyps facing up, the little dots need to face the light.

Since your new and I can understand how expensive things can get. You probably want to check out
a> they are very very cheap and quality isn't bad.
 
jeep9783;42743 wrote: So do i need to stop this or just let it be, dosent apper that it is bothering any thing, looks as if is is just on on piece of my lr, i am sure i could do some moving around to get it out n scrub or dry out if need be, just worreid dont want to loose anything due to that, have been doing good for the last four months only lost one little frogspawn and a brain, that was due to doing the coral to soon i think...i just need some advise on what to due about that stuff

<span style="color: black;">You can either pull it out and scrub the rock or leave it in there and keep your tanks nutrients down so it dies off. If you are a heavy feeder or have a high bio-load it's going to be difficult to treat algae problems without using some sort of nutrient absorbing media and a regular water change schedule.</span>
 
well i am using phos guard media already to take care of my green hair algae, dont
have a big bioload though 2 damsels, mandrian, lawn mower, 33 main tank and
10gal sump
 
how often are you doing water changes? smaller more often is better. id suggest the scrubbing thing actually, that stuff looks like it wont want to come off
 
well i havent really had to yet becuase on my sump i got no cover n i have a fan blowing right onto the water to keep it a good 75deg, n i usually loose about 4-6cups a day, so i havent bothered yet because i loose so much water
 
i use one of them water purifiers that u hook up to tap water to fill the water back up due to my last nano i had the problem with to many nutrients n the water n finally figured out that it was the raw tap water so i was told to use the water purifiers
 
ahhh theres your problem bud! if you are using one of those pur water filters or brita or something of that fasion, then you are not getting really pure water. What you need to use is RO/DI water which is essentially labgrade water. you can also use distilled water. Filtered tap water through just general charcoal filteration which is what most tap water filters use does not take out phosphates (fertilizer for nusiance algae) or nitrates or silicates or several other unwanted compounds. You will notice a world of difference after you switch water.

BUT your other major issue is that replacing evaporated with top off water is not the same as doing water changes. When water evaoprates only water evaporates, the wastes and excess nutrients get left behind. If you are just topping off water, you are not pulling out any of the bad stuff basically. Do 15%-25% water changes weekly or I would say biweekly righ tnow until you have your algae issues sorted out. I can not stress enough and im sure everyone will agree with me on this, how important water changes are to a nano-reef. I have been keeping nano-reefs since i was 13, and believe me i made the same mistakes you did and learned the hard way. Do yourself a favor and switch to RO/DI water, and do waterchanges regularly, its the First and most important step to a healthy tank.
Hope this helps!
Nishant
 
so any bottled water from kroger will work, well u think that will get rid of my red velvet algae stuff? n how long will it take for that
 
not just any bottled water, make sure it says RO/DI filtered. If you cant find that go with distilled water. I would say you will notice major changes within 2-3 weeks.
 
It should help with that too. You still might need to scrub it off though just to help jumpstart the cleansing
 
thank you very much, rep left will keep everyone updated, n what about doing a major water change to get tose nutrients out a little faster?
 
hey jeep, i'll give you a free frag of Acro i got. Call me 404 372 7626
 
if you cant find any ro/di water and you dont want to buy a unit you can allways go to your lfs and buy some for about 75cents a gal or you can buy saltwater at 1dollar a gal but i suggest you buy yourself a ro/di unit sam at aquabuys sells a pretty good one for a far price it is the same one i have but mine is modified and i read at 0 tds and thats what you really want it to read well good luck
 
Nishant3789;42824 wrote: It should help with that too. You still might need to scrub it off though just to help jumpstart the cleansing
It is best to scrub the rock and suck that out of the tank while doing a water change or you could just be spreading more of it around the tank. Algae of all kinds lives on light and dirty water. Clean up the water (RO/DI water, check your skimmer, remove any bags and such that are more than a few weeks old), increase the flow in the tank and cut the lighting cycle for a while. You may need to replace bulbs if you haven't done that in some time.
 
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