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Maybe add a uv onto the drain line that feeds back to your sump from the qt. This might help disease from coming back to the DT.
Qt tank setup and results
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I will keep everyone posted on new fish I add to the qt tank and the results with each.
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Thought of that but it needs to have a flow rate that I can't produce with just overflow.
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I am under the impression that the slower the flow, the better. More contact time gives the UV a better chance of killing ick. If you flush water through too fast, it won't be very effective.
In your first post, you said the QT would be slow fed, so I figured it would be slow to drain.
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Yes but each uv unit has a specific flow rate per wattage. Besides the qt tank is plumbed 8" from the sump, so I don't really have the space for it. But I have two uv's running back to my system. So total wattage is 130 watts.
Sounds like you actually need a 2nd QT tank to me. If you have your current fish that have or have been subjected to Ich, and then add them to the QT tank that you are putting your new fish in, who may or may not have Ich...Sounds like a disaster if that is indeed what you are doing. I didn't see where you had put your fish that are still with you.
I would keep them separate from any new fish. That or wait on adding new fish until you have the existing fish taken care of and have added them back to the DT.
I for sure like the design, and acclimation aspect. I have had the same situation where 1 particular fish would have Ich, others were just fine and fought it off. Tangs so far have been the worst. Clowns had it, as well. Big subject of Patience, this QT process is!:yes:
I would keep them separate from any new fish. That or wait on adding new fish until you have the existing fish taken care of and have added them back to the DT.
I for sure like the design, and acclimation aspect. I have had the same situation where 1 particular fish would have Ich, others were just fine and fought it off. Tangs so far have been the worst. Clowns had it, as well. Big subject of Patience, this QT process is!:yes:
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day 5 update: new fish is doing fine with no signs of ich. He is eating, m shrimp (soaked in elos vitamins), nori and elos pellets.
I will let you all know if he breaks out.
I will let you all know if he breaks out.
Sorry, missed the Edit cut off (had a phone call)
Just went back and read your first post again. So, how do you plan to get the Ich out of the DT, if there are fish in there? They are likely carrying, just able to fight off. Anything new you put in there is going to end up getting Ich, especially a Tang. I would QT all of the fish, leave the DT empty of fish, run another UV to the DT to help kill off anything prior to it hatching in the sand bed. Ich sucks! I will end up having to QT my fish while I let the new tank cycle. Going to try and limit the exposure of the new tank to anything from the old tank.
Just went back and read your first post again. So, how do you plan to get the Ich out of the DT, if there are fish in there? They are likely carrying, just able to fight off. Anything new you put in there is going to end up getting Ich, especially a Tang. I would QT all of the fish, leave the DT empty of fish, run another UV to the DT to help kill off anything prior to it hatching in the sand bed. Ich sucks! I will end up having to QT my fish while I let the new tank cycle. Going to try and limit the exposure of the new tank to anything from the old tank.
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not sure if i will be getting the ich out of the dt. this is a new approach. I am trying to SLOWING introduce my new fish to the system water and see how it responds. I am putting in under 100 gph of system water to the qt tank but running 800 gph through 50watts of uv within the qt tank.
this might blow up in my face but again if my new fish get sick I will simply treat the fish and most likely remove all the fish from the dt and treat them. but here is a question: say you have a large tank 300gallons or so and have over 30 fish in that tank. one of the fish gets ich and dies, but none of the other fish show any signs, would you remove all 29 fish or wait 1-2 months before adding another fish?
this might blow up in my face but again if my new fish get sick I will simply treat the fish and most likely remove all the fish from the dt and treat them. but here is a question: say you have a large tank 300gallons or so and have over 30 fish in that tank. one of the fish gets ich and dies, but none of the other fish show any signs, would you remove all 29 fish or wait 1-2 months before adding another fish?
<span style="font-family: Calibri"><span style="font-size: 13px">Correct me if I’m wrong or I’m I missing something. </span></span>
<span style="font-family: Calibri"><span style="font-size: 13px">You say that “</span></span><span style="color: black"><span style="font-family: Verdana">I am putting in under 100 gph of system water to the qt tank but running 800 gph through 50watts of uv within the qt tank.”</span></span>
<span style="color: black"><span style="font-family: Verdana">You have a 40B tank with your water and you are taking 100gph of your DT’s water. If you are putting it in where is the other going? Is it dumping back in your DT? </span></span>
<span style="color: black"><span style="font-family: Verdana">The only way your setup will work is if you get 40 gallons of water from whom ever you get your fish and then slowly change the water to where you have them in your water. </span></span>
<span style="color: black"><span style="font-family: Verdana">Remember you can put lipstick on a pig but it’s still a pig. </span></span>
<span style="font-family: Calibri"><span style="font-size: 13px">You say that “</span></span><span style="color: black"><span style="font-family: Verdana">I am putting in under 100 gph of system water to the qt tank but running 800 gph through 50watts of uv within the qt tank.”</span></span>
<span style="color: black"><span style="font-family: Verdana">You have a 40B tank with your water and you are taking 100gph of your DT’s water. If you are putting it in where is the other going? Is it dumping back in your DT? </span></span>
<span style="color: black"><span style="font-family: Verdana">The only way your setup will work is if you get 40 gallons of water from whom ever you get your fish and then slowly change the water to where you have them in your water. </span></span>
<span style="color: black"><span style="font-family: Verdana">Remember you can put lipstick on a pig but it’s still a pig. </span></span>
I firmly believe that you are going to continue having ick in your system. Some fish may be more prone to outbreak than others but the risk will still be there. I do not understand the need to QT fish if the QT and display are plumbed together. This will not eliminate the Cryptocaryon</em>. The UV will not eradicate it either unless you can be sure that 100% of your water has passed through it. This is virtually impossible.
Why bother separating your new fish?
Why bother separating your new fish?
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Eagle please read how the system is plumbed.
Stacy I agree with you
Stacy I agree with you
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Why?
This also brings up the question of how huge public aquariums deal with Ich. Ich is INCREDIBLY small and can be brought in on anything carrying water. While fish are the most likely carriers, anything WET that goes into your tank can be carrying ich.
So can ich be effectively kept out of a tank? I have my doubts. The issue then goes to whether fish can fight it off or not...
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<span style="color: Red"><u>Quarantine everything!!!!!!!!! </em></u><span style="color: Black"><u>Or battle ich</u></span>
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I don't understand why the majority thinks Ich is the only reason to QT. The whole practice of QT seems to be centered around whether or not Ich can be eradicated from a system.. What about the other diseases that we can transfer to our other fish.
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Something else to keep in mind... Just because your new fish isn't showing signs of ich doesn't mean that it is safe. The ich could be in an initial stage and just not revealing itself on the new fish yet or it could be in the fish's gills where it can't be seen yet.
Also: Doesn't the ich drop its eggs and seem undetectable until the new batch hatches? This may be going on in your DT right now, giving the false impression that all is well until it gets a healthy host to attach to. This is the reason for the fallow period. I'm assuming that my entire DT is infected including sand, rock, and invertebrates (since ich exists on fish, it obviously resides in more than just the water column) . After a 10 week fallow period all cycles of the ich will have starved out and died. Overkill, I know, but I'm not chancing loosing another couple hundred dollars and harming more fish. That's why ALL fish are in QT while my DT sits fallow. If I had a 300 gallon tank and 1 fish got ich, is do the same. When my sailfin got ich, it infected my other fish and I was forced to do so anyway. Just being proactive instead of reactive now.
We aren't trying to beat you up or anything. Just offering advice and experience. I really don't understand now why anyone would have a DT before having a QT. Using your DT for an startup QT and hoping it all works out is just too much risk for me.
Best of luck...
Also: Doesn't the ich drop its eggs and seem undetectable until the new batch hatches? This may be going on in your DT right now, giving the false impression that all is well until it gets a healthy host to attach to. This is the reason for the fallow period. I'm assuming that my entire DT is infected including sand, rock, and invertebrates (since ich exists on fish, it obviously resides in more than just the water column) . After a 10 week fallow period all cycles of the ich will have starved out and died. Overkill, I know, but I'm not chancing loosing another couple hundred dollars and harming more fish. That's why ALL fish are in QT while my DT sits fallow. If I had a 300 gallon tank and 1 fish got ich, is do the same. When my sailfin got ich, it infected my other fish and I was forced to do so anyway. Just being proactive instead of reactive now.
We aren't trying to beat you up or anything. Just offering advice and experience. I really don't understand now why anyone would have a DT before having a QT. Using your DT for an startup QT and hoping it all works out is just too much risk for me.
Best of luck...
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Interesting theory by Leng Sy: in a fully stocked reef tank, corals will feed on ick.
Any one know more about this?
Any one know more about this?
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<ul>
<li>Most of these are reasons to QT to either prevent and/or treat.</li>
<li>http://www.saltwater-aquarium-online-guide.com/fish-diseases-and-treatments.html#bacterial_infections">[B]Bacterial Infections[/B]</a>
<ul>
<li></li>
<li>Fin Rot</li>
<li>Fish tuberculosis, wasting disease</li>
<li>Vibriosis, ulcer disease</li>
</ul></li>
<li>[IMG]http://www.saltwater-aquarium-online-guide.com/fish-diseases-and-treatments.html#viral_disease">[B]Viral disease[/B]</a>
<ul>
<li>Cauliflower or Lymphocystis</li>
</ul></li>
<li>[IMG]http://www.saltwater-aquarium-online-guide.com/fish-diseases-and-treatments.html#fungal_disease">[B]Fungal disease[/B]</a>
<ul>
<li>Ichthyophonus disease, whirling disease</li>
<li>Exophiala disease</li>
</ul></li>
<li>[IMG]http://www.saltwater-aquarium-online-guide.com/fish-diseases-and-treatments.html#parasitic_disease">[B]Parasitic Infestations[/B]</a>
<ul>
<li>Marine velvet</li>
<li>Marine white spot, cryptocaryoniasis, marine ich</li>
<li>Uronema disease</li>
<li>Tang turbellarian disease, black spot</li>
<li>Tremode infestation</li>
<li>Crustacean infestation</li>
</ul></li>
<li>[IMG]http://www.saltwater-aquarium-online-guide.com/fish-diseases-and-treatments.html#other_disease">[B]Other health problems[/B]</a>
<ul>
<li>Head and lateral line errosion</li>
<li>Poisoning</li>
</ul></li>
</ul>
<li>Most of these are reasons to QT to either prevent and/or treat.</li>
<li>http://www.saltwater-aquarium-online-guide.com/fish-diseases-and-treatments.html#bacterial_infections">[B]Bacterial Infections[/B]</a>
<ul>
<li></li>
<li>Fin Rot</li>
<li>Fish tuberculosis, wasting disease</li>
<li>Vibriosis, ulcer disease</li>
</ul></li>
<li>[IMG]http://www.saltwater-aquarium-online-guide.com/fish-diseases-and-treatments.html#viral_disease">[B]Viral disease[/B]</a>
<ul>
<li>Cauliflower or Lymphocystis</li>
</ul></li>
<li>[IMG]http://www.saltwater-aquarium-online-guide.com/fish-diseases-and-treatments.html#fungal_disease">[B]Fungal disease[/B]</a>
<ul>
<li>Ichthyophonus disease, whirling disease</li>
<li>Exophiala disease</li>
</ul></li>
<li>[IMG]http://www.saltwater-aquarium-online-guide.com/fish-diseases-and-treatments.html#parasitic_disease">[B]Parasitic Infestations[/B]</a>
<ul>
<li>Marine velvet</li>
<li>Marine white spot, cryptocaryoniasis, marine ich</li>
<li>Uronema disease</li>
<li>Tang turbellarian disease, black spot</li>
<li>Tremode infestation</li>
<li>Crustacean infestation</li>
</ul></li>
<li>[IMG]http://www.saltwater-aquarium-online-guide.com/fish-diseases-and-treatments.html#other_disease">[B]Other health problems[/B]</a>
<ul>
<li>Head and lateral line errosion</li>
<li>Poisoning</li>
</ul></li>
</ul>
