Qt tank setup and results

I also use my qt tank to get the fish eating without competing with other fish. It gives the fish a chance to recover after transportation from the lfs of across the country.

Besides, getting my leopard and radiant wrasse out of my 120 without breaking my coral would be a challenge.

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Silver Surfer;808923 wrote: Eagle please read how the system is plumbed.

Stacy I agree with you



Again reread my post...
Better yet go to your bath tub. Turn water on. And wait..

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Now is it running over yet. ...


I read your post and mine is still the same question. Where does the water go? If you take it from the dt and loop it in the qt and then put it back in the dt then all your doing is uv cleaning the qt and dumping it back in the dt. Instead of calling it a qt i would call it an acclamater with a uv wash. Its like something outside to keep your house from stinking. Its on your clothes and everywhere u go you will leave a cloud of cigarate smell

Edit:
Silver Surfer;808923 wrote: Eagle please read how the system is plumbed.

Stacy I agree with you



Again reread my post...
Better yet go to your bath tub. Turn water on. And wait..

.
.
.
Now is it running over yet. ...


I read your post and mine is still the same question. Where does the water go? If you take it from the dt and loop it in the qt and then put it back in the dt then all your doing is uv cleaning. The qt and dumping it back in the dt. Instead of calling it a qt i would call it an acclamater with a uv wash. Its like something outside to keep your house from stinking. Its on your clothes and everywhere u go you will leave a cloud of cigarate smell
 
Silver Surfer;808950 wrote: I also use my qt tank to get the fish eating without competing with other fish. It gives the fish a chance to recover after transportation from the lfs of across the country.

Besides, getting my leopard and radiant wrasse out of my 120 without breaking my coral would be a challenge.

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Very important IMO:up:
Those fish could probably be easy caught with a trap. Fantastic looking tank btw.
 
Rerad my last post. At the end somehow the smoking part was deleted. Would change it from qt to holding
 
Silver Surfer;808962 wrote: Jef4y brings up my point.

My point doesn't necessarily negate the many positive reasons for a QT setup though. I'm just curious about ich.
 
my question still has not been answered: If you had a 300+ gallon reef tank with 30 or so fish and one of them died by ich and the others showed no signs, would you remove the 29 fish and QT them for 6-10 weeks or let it ride.

I am pretty sure you would feed with meds and watch the balance of the fish. If you didnt have another outbreak for 1-2 months you would then add more fish.
 
Silver Surfer;809015 wrote: my question still has not been answered: If you had a 300+ gallon reef tank with 30 or so fish and one of them died by ich and the others showed no signs, would you remove the 29 fish and QT them for 6-10 weeks or let it ride.

I am pretty sure you would feed with meds and watch the balance of the fish. If you didnt have another outbreak for 1-2 months you would then add more fish.

Personally? I would not QT the rest. I'd ride it out to see.
 
Silver Surfer;809015 wrote: my question still has not been answered: If you had a 300+ gallon reef tank with 30 or so fish and one of them died by ich and the others showed no signs, would you remove the 29 fish and QT them for 6-10 weeks or let it ride.

I am pretty sure you would feed with meds and watch the balance of the fish. If you didnt have another outbreak for 1-2 months you would then add more fish.
Yes I would remove them. I would not add another fish until the tank had laid dormant 6+ weeks. I had a 156 fish with 26 fish out of which 10 were tangs . In the beginning I had ich appear on 4 of the tangs. I captured all the fish treated them and left the tank empty of any host for 6 to 7 weeks. I restocked the fish and kept adding after quarantine until the aforementioned stock levels were reached. I NEVER had Ich after that. I did have a purple develop a subtle case of HLLE and one tang with popeye. I guess I was just lucky according to some since ICH is always present:roll:
 
+1 to grouper therapy

Silver Surfer;809015 wrote: my question still has not been answered: If you had a 300+ gallon reef tank with 30 or so fish and one of them died by ich and the others showed no signs, would you remove the 29 fish and QT them for 6-10 weeks or let it ride.

I am pretty sure you would feed with meds and watch the balance of the fish. If you didnt have another outbreak for 1-2 months you would then add more fish.

CedzAquAddiction;808937 wrote: Something else to keep in mind... Just because your new fish isn't showing signs of ich doesn't mean that it is safe. The ich could be in an initial stage and just not revealing itself on the new fish yet or it could be in the fish's gills where it can't be seen yet.

Also: Doesn't the ich drop its eggs and seem undetectable until the new batch hatches? This may be going on in your DT right now, giving the false impression that all is well until it gets a healthy host to attach to. This is the reason for the fallow period. I'm assuming that my entire DT is infected including sand, rock, and invertebrates (since ich exists on fish, it obviously resides in more than just the water column) . After a 10 week fallow period all cycles of the ich will have starved out and died. Overkill, I know, but I'm not chancing loosing another couple hundred dollars and harming more fish. <span style="color: Blue">That's why ALL fish are in QT while my DT sits fallow. If I had a 300 gallon tank and 1 fish got ich, is do the same. When my sailfin got ich, it infected my other fish and I was forced to do so anyway. Just being proactive instead of reactive now. </span>

We aren't trying to beat you up or anything. Just offering advice and experience. I really don't understand now why anyone would have a DT before having a QT. Using your DT for an startup QT and hoping it all works out is just too much risk for me.

Best of luck...
 
I understand the need to QT, but it seems that one can never be certain to prevent an ich break out. From this discussion, it seems that some fish can host ich but show no signs because they are strong enough to fight it off. Accordinly, these fish can host ich in QT and eventually carry it to the DT, no?

Do you guys medicate your fish in QT regardless of apparent signs of diseases, etc?

I'm going to look for a thread on best QT practices. If I can't find one, I'll start it.
 
JBDreefs;809193 wrote: I understand the need to QT, but it seems that one can never be certain to prevent an ich break out. From this discussion, it seems that some fish can host ich but show no signs because they are strong enough to fight it off. Accordinly, these fish can host ich in QT and eventually carry it to the DT, no?
Do you guys medicate your fish in QT regardless of apparent signs of diseases, etc?

I'm going to look for a thread on best QT practices. If I can't find one, I'll start it.

Good question and something I've been contemplating as well... Tagging along...
 
JBDreefs;809193 wrote: I understand the need to QT, but it seems that one can never be certain to prevent an ich break out. From this discussion, it seems that some fish can host ich but show no signs because they are strong enough to fight it off. Accordinly, these fish can host ich in QT and eventually carry it to the DT, no?

Do you guys medicate your fish in QT regardless of apparent signs of diseases, etc?

I'm going to look for a thread on best QT practices. If I can't find one, I'll start it.
If they host it will eventually show up. The only time that the protozoan is visible to humans is when the protozoan is pregnant( I guess that is the correct term) The fish can be hosting and not show signs at that moment but eventually will.
 
There is there at time period in which it will show as well, correct? For instance, a fish can't have ich for 10 weeks, and never show it, right?
 
Just a quick update. My yellow tang in my qt/holding/death trap is eating well and ich free. He will remain in the qt tank for two or three more weeks before going in the 120.

None of the other fish in the system are showing signs of illness.
 
Mr saltwater tank has an awesome guide on disease and qt. It completely tells how to keep ur tank completely disease free. Definately worth the cost of the book.
 
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