Qt tank setup and results

[silver surfer]

I did purchase the guide before i setup my qt system. Mr. Saltwater is wise beyond his years.

Now the question is: knowing I had ich my system, why is my new tang ich free for over two weeks?

Is it just a healthy fish. No stress in the qt system or does the uv really work that well?

 

[grouper therapy]

They (cyst) may not have hatched yet.

 

[silver surfer]

He had 1 or 2 spots but had been clean for over two weeks.

 

[silver surfer]

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Right at home.

 

[silver surfer]

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One more

 

[cedzaquaddiction]

Best of luck. Keep us posted...

 

[lsue]

This is totally off the subject of quarantine... However, looking at your photos it seems you have used flexible hose to complete part of your plumbing? I am new and have been fighting with clear reinforced tubing from Home Depot that someone posted only needed heat to straighten out. I can't begin to tell you how frustrated I've been.:angryfire: So, what did you use?
Beautiful tank.

 

[silver surfer]

It's called spa hose and they should have it at Home Depot.

 

[rdnelson]

Another drawback to the clear hoses is algae buildup inside the hose. If light can not get in the hose algae will not grow.

 

[silver surfer]

The flex spa hose works great.

 

[silver surfer]

Update: As of today the yellow tang is completely clean in the 120. He is eating well and showing no signs of stress. The other tank mates also ich free and showing no signs of stress.

I added the next fish to the qt/holding tank. It is a clown tang for my 300. He has been at the lfs for 3 weeks in low salinity, eating pellets and flakes (all good signs). This fish will be a better test. 3 days in and no signs of ich but we will see.

I will keep ya posted.

 

[atlfishes]

I personally will never add a fish to my tank without preventative treatment, even if there are no signs of disease. I believe a fish can be a host without showing signs of the disease. I've experienced this after introducing wrasses into my tank, who seem to have stronger immune systems than most fish. I have a simple 20 gallon QT tank and have treated a number of fish including, tangs, tile fish, trigger, anthias, wrasses etc. The safest thing for me is to assume every fish I buy from a store has ick. If the fish is eating at the store and once it starts eating in my QT tank I start medicating. I've had success using paraguard, which can cure a wide range of diseases, dissipates in 24 hours (easy to do water changes) and is easy on the fish. I will also use Prazi Pro once the paraguard treatment is complete. If I see ick I'm going to use something copper based like cupramine. Keep a formalin based medication on hand in case of a brookynella, when you need it you need it fast.

I keep my system completely separate. If the QT is tied into the main tank and you misdiagnosis a disease, it could be a disaster. If a fish dies in the QT, can you completely sterilize it? If you treat with copper and then have that water flow into the main tank, you better be sure its completely dissipated. Too many risks for too little benefit in my opinion.

Mr. Saltwater tank website goes over good practices to follow.

JBDreefs;809193 wrote: I understand the need to QT, but it seems that one can never be certain to prevent an ich break out. From this discussion, it seems that some fish can host ich but show no signs because they are strong enough to fight it off. Accordinly, these fish can host ich in QT and eventually carry it to the DT, no?

Do you guys medicate your fish in QT regardless of apparent signs of diseases, etc?

I'm going to look for a thread on best QT practices. If I can't find one, I'll start it.

 

[silver surfer]

How do you copper wrasses? Long term copper for that kind of fish is not so good.

I understand the "normal" qt process. I'm trying something different. Just putting my system and results out there.

 

[atlfishes]

Paraguard is still my first line of defense, but I will use cuparmine (only copper med I will use) when needed. It is a gentler, less toxic copper medication than copper sulfate. Seachem has great support and has been a resource for me. I have used it on wrasses and have not lost one during treatment nor have I had one die in the future that had been treated. My sample size isn't large, but I won't hesitate to use it again in the future.

Good luck with your QT process. Its an important part of having long term success in this hobby.

Silver Surfer;813327 wrote: How do you copper wrasses? Long term copper for that kind of fish is not so good.

I understand the "normal" qt process. I'm trying something different. Just putting my system and results out there.

 

[cedzaquaddiction]

So... I have all of my fish in a 55g QT until my120g DT finishes it's fallow period. Are we agreeing that it would be best to treat all fish in my QT before moving them to DT?

Thanks all...

 

[silver surfer]

ok, here is a short vid of the clown tang in my qt system. He is ich free as of today.
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<legend> Attached files </legend>

 

[silver surfer]

How long do you plan to be without fish? What fish are in the 55?

 

[cedzaquaddiction]

Doing a 10 week fallow period. I have 2 clowns, 2 firefish, q swallowtail angel, 1 engineer goby, & 2 hawkfish. All less than 1 inch except the angel & firefish.

 

[silver surfer]

Before you add them back to the dt I would do several water changes using your DT water. 5 gallons or so a day for 2-4 weeks after your 10-14 weeks of no fish. Just a thought

 

[cedzaquaddiction]

Yeah, I think you are onto something. After the fallow period, I should be pretty well assured that there will be no ich in the system and especially the water. Therefore, there won't be any risk in exposing the fish to the water from the DT, and get them used to the more nutrient water from the DT with all of the LR, sand, and such...

Thanks so much!!!